Sawstop first impression

[Per Swenson]

Folks, If you are looking for a comprehensive review,
I suggest you read Dave Wright's version on Wood Central (do an articles search there to find it).
Dave writes well
and should be commended on his thoroughness.


Now about me and my saw. First, I have made
a living in the home improvement business for a long time.
Frankly, I am tired of it. Not the work mind you, the new
attitude of the customer base. They seem to expect
top quality and design at borg prices. Framing and sheet rock crews in the North East? I will not pay
a translator.
So builtins ,bars and library's. I started Swenson & Swenson to explore this market. The other Swenson is two people, My father and my son.
Although my son ,15 doesn't know it yet. Bob is 80.
If you correlate driving a car with driving a table saw then you
can see why (for me) sawstop technology is the wise choice.
Fellas, I produce this stuff in my basement shop. We are planning
on a new building, this move is on the horizon. In the mean time
I am working in a space that is exactly like yours. Cramped.
So the slider/Euro/old iron idea is not a option. I wanted the
best North American style 10 inch saw on the market. Sorry
Powermatic and Delta, even with out the technology the sawstop
has them beat. $500 worth? I think so.
The controls alone are akin to spinning the wheel of a bank safe,
smooth and effortless. This saw screams quality.
Out of the box alignment, perfect. Table and cast iron wings, ditto.
Folks if I could find fault somewhere, I wouldn't hesitate to let you know.
Lets remember its a table saw and you can get the same results
on a well tuned contractor saw. Ours is just real pretty, and heavier.
About the incra fence. Again for years I scoffed at the notion of
1/1000 accuracy. What the heck for? Remember I am the guy who could fit kitchen cabinets with nothing more then a circular saw and
a makita power planer. Just like my anti Festool attitude of not to long ago,
I was wrong again. This fence is just sublime. Again you truly get
what you pay for.
A word about the HTC mobile base. Perfect, a 5 year old can
spin this contraption around the room.
About the politics, who cares. My thoughts on this issue
are not suitable for the pages of this forum. I am more then
likely to go out and buy a H1 Hummer, just so I can put a
bumper sticker on it that says, " Earth First!" we will log the
other planets later.

I am a happy and proud Sawstop owner.
Per Swenson
updates will follow.

[Mark Singer]

I guess we won't be seeing in the WW Classifieds any time soon...:confused:

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Per.....remember me....I said I wouldn't buy one but I can't tell you how happy I am that you're happy with you new purchase and that the initial tests indicate it performs well! It's always nice to know that somebody buys something and gets what they paid for and expected. Keeps us updated as you continue to use it!

[Frank Pellow]

Thanks Per. It sounds like you are a happy guy with your saw. By the way, everything you say about your saw could apply to my new General 650.

[Dave Wright #2]

Per,

Glad the saw is looking good for you, and best of fortune on the new business! I'm interested in the fence. How easy is it to remove so that the top is completely clear? You seem to have the 36" SawStop size. What maximum rip do you get with the Incra on that saw? It looks like the tube that is perpendicular to the fence will extend out to the right and take up room as the fence is moved right. Is that how it works?

Best, Dave

[Jeff Sudmeier]

That looks like a great saw! Congrats on the purchase. As you said, the Saw Stop technology alone will not sell these saws. The fact that they are dead on out of the box(Crate) will help their sales!

[Dave Wright #2]

Ironic that they spend the money to design and build the saw with a pivot pin and microadjustment screws to make slot/blade alignment easy...and then spend the money to get the alignment perfect at the factory anyway.

On alignment: It might be worth noting that the SawStop is neither contractor nor cabinet saw when it comes to cabinet/trunnion/top assembly. The assembly sequence on contactor saws is this: Trunnions bolt to top bolts to cabinet The top is the "meat in the sandwich".

Cabinet saws are this: Trunnions bolt to cabinet bolts to top. The cabinet is the "meat".

The SawStop is: Cabinet bolts to trunnions bolt to top. The trunnions are the "meat". This arrangement provides the solid and direct trunnion/top bolting of a contractor saw (actually a better feature than cabinet saws) with the cabinet to hold the trunnions in place while the top is adjusted.

Sorry to digress. One of the different things about this saw.

[Per Swenson]

Per,

Glad the saw is looking good for you, and best of fortune on the new business! I'm interested in the fence. How easy is it to remove so that the top is completely clear? You seem to have the 36" SawStop size. What maximum rip do you get with the Incra on that saw? It looks like the tube that is perpendicular to the fence will extend out to the right and take up room as the fence is moved right. Is that how it works?

Best, Dave

Yes you are correct, the arm extends to the right.
The whole fence removes in seconds, it will slide to the left,
off the rails. The base lifts off by turning 4 knobs. There are
stops in the rail so when you put it back on it realligns it self.
I have room to the right so the arm is not a problem.
Rip capacity is 32"
What you get with this setup is speed, repeatability and accuracy.
I hope this helps.
Why did I pick this setup?
For too long I was a opinionated arrogant carpenter
who thought change was kept in a jar.
I will no longer scoff at innovation.
Nor will I spin my wheels in the rut of ignorance.
I have been on that road for a long, long time.
Per

[Tyler Howell]

Go Get em Per and thanks for sharing.:cool:

[Rich Konopka]

Good writeup Per !! You had me LOL regarding the Hummer bumper sticker.

Curious about the Incra fence. Did you use an existing fence and modify or buy the Incra new? If new, do they have one specific to the SS?

I have the incra fence on my router table and it is awesome !!

Thanks

[Per Swenson]

Good writeup Per !! You had me LOL regarding the Hummer bumper sticker.

Curious about the Incra fence. Did you use an existing fence and modify or buy the Incra new? If new, do they have one specific to the SS?

I have the incra fence on my router table and it is awesome !!

Thanks


R ich,

Thanks for asking, The incra is brand new from the good folks
at woodpeckers. I can not say enough about the quality of
service from these guys. The saw top is 2" larger in length
then a normal N/A table saw. So its a custom order at stock price.
The old Per would of clamped a 2x4 to the top and thought
he was clever and thrifty.
Per

[Mike Vermeil]

Per,

I gotta tell you, you're one of the funniest guys on this forum and I always enjoy your posts, but I've gotta know. I always picture you speaking with a thick Scandinavian accent - something between the hockey store owner in the movie The Mighty Ducks, and Jamie Lee Curtis in her famous scene in Trading Places.

Am I right?

Mike

[Per Swenson]

Nah, Far from it.
I was born and raised in Hells Kitchen, Greenwich Village, and the
Upper west side of NYC. With all of the expensive private schooling
that goes with it. I presently live in Northern New Jersey and pretend
to be a uneducated redneck. A combination that sounds like,
"Wass it to ya, gowan to da shore?" or " Yew order those flippin
winders yet ,yo?"
I hope this helps your understanding.
Per

[Dev Emch]

Hey Per.... & others:)

For what is worth...

Two of best joints are the lock mitre for long grain and the dovetail for butting two end grains together like in a drawer or box or what not.

In kitchens, you have lots of drawers and not alot of money in the estimate. Often, there is repeition. In this case, I use a Liegh D-4 and wouldnt think of anything else.

But in one off, high end, furniture or items with monster tails, I do this by hand. Yes, I will use a bandsaw on a 2 or 3 inch wide by 1.75 inch thick dovetail. I also use routers free hand to clear debris but pair to the line with chisels.

But here is the point, (finally). For those of you who cut dovetails by hand using chisels, dovetail saw or hacksaw and layout tools such as a marking gage, you routinely work to +/- FIVE THOU or 5/1000 th of an inch. Not Bad Huhhhh! And you should always give your work DA FINGER! Close your eyes and feel your work. Very soon, you will be able to feel a 1 or 2 thou gap or error. If its graduated, then you need the calibpers.

But your right, if you breath on your work, it moves. If the day is hot or cold, your work moves. But the point is, you can now work to about a thou if you need to with the saw. It will take practice as just because you fence says so, your technique may have robbed you of a couple of thou.

Is this all necessary. NO. Is it a nice thing? Yup. For example, if you cut the mortise using any of your methods, (I like to cut the mortise first and size the tenon last), then you get to cut the tenon. Using the incra fence, a caliper and a tenon jig, you can cut a tenon that can actually "POP" the joint when you remove it! That is, its air tight enough that you can feel air compression going down and a distinct pop when you pull it out. This is where that accuracy earns its keep.

By the way, given a choice between the PM66, the unisaw, the general and the sawstop, I would say its a toss up between the general 350 and the sawstop with my leanings to the sawstop. I like the pictures you have posted. My major complaint about it is its lack of panel ability. But that can be said as well about my two saws and why I am after the T-73. So much of this has gone to panel processing. Building anything on a commercial job today from solid stock is getting rather rare.

[Ken Waag]

Per,

I am glad to hear that the saw was everything you hoped for and more. Like others here, I enjoyed your post for it's honesty and humor. I'd mentioned that I was curious about the fence and have been tempted to go that direction. Your pictures and comments have been a big help to me, and I've decided to go that route. I already have an Icra ultra positioner so I just need the rail and mount kit. Also, I have my router set up in a cast iron wing on the far right so the sytem will do double duty for me.

Thanks for posting!
Ken

[larry merlau]

hey per, i like your attitude and actually your reasoning for the saw stop was the right thing to do for you and your son and maybe your dad. you never know when a startling sound could cause a slip of the fingers.. i do believe that saw stop needs more recognition like yours.. and i also think your one of those dangerous daytime dreamers,, go east coast red ned ! GO!!

[Per Swenson]

Folks,
Thank you all for your kindness,
I do not think there is a greater
collection of genuine good guys,
assembled anywhere else on the internet.
On to my lil update.
I would like to publicly Thank Mr. Ken Wagg
for his info on Renaissance Wax.
You can read his long winded post here, (his words)
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=19411
This stuff is just amazing!
I know, I know, But I have been using(place your product here)
for years and by crickey it works for me.
I don't think you would be reading this if
you were not open to change. And this stuff
is a quantum improvement over (insert your product here).
Thanks Ken!

Per

[Ken Waag]

Per,

Glad to hear you liked the wax. Normally, I just use it on the top, but on that new saw I think you need to wax the whole thing like a show car! That's what I'll probably do. I just found out, mine ships on May 16. Until it get here, I'll just keep looking at your posted pictures. Have a good weekend,
Ken

[Dave Wright #2]

Per,

32" rip w/ the Incra versus 36" w/ one of the SawStop fences; does your work need the 4" difference often? My last saw had a 30" Bies. Since putting the SS into service I have been surprised how often I use the 30" - 36" range. If the other manufacturers get nothing else out of the SawStop design, they should at least borrow the idea of making their "short" fence 36" instead of 30".

On top protection: I use TopCote. Nothing applys faster, and faster matters if that means it will get done. It appears to work, though apparently not all cast iron is created equal. I have an open (garage) shop in the humid South, so things rust. Most of my machines discolor and gain character but do not rust in a way that interferes with work or would shorten their lifespan. Some tools, such as my tenon jig, rust a lot more quickly and deeply. Gotta be something different about that iron, because it was treated just like the rest of my iron. It's too early to tell, but the SS top seems to be picking up character more slowly than other tools I've put into service.

TopCote's protection is probably best if sprayed but NOT buffed. It is buffable at any time after being applied, unlike wax that gets hard and unbuffable if you wait too long. I usually spray TopCote on before leaving the shop, and don't bother to buff it until the next time I use the tool.

Regards,

Dave

[Mark Riegsecker]

So the slider/Euro/old iron idea is not a option.

I wanted the best North American style 10 inch saw on the market. Sorry
Powermatic and Delta, even with out the technology the sawstop
has them beat. $500 worth? I think so.
The controls alone are akin to spinning the wheel of a bank safe,
smooth and effortless. This saw screams quality.
Out of the box alignment, perfect. Table and cast iron wings, ditto.
I am a happy and proud Sawstop owner.
Per Swenson
updates will follow.


Nice saw Per really! :)
Please don't take offense and maybe I should let this go since I'll probably never own one because of the cost; However, it seems a bit disappointing that the original fence had to be replaced.
This setup looks as if cutting a panel 30" or so the Incra would stick out from the saw that much. If wanting to leave that setup for a while it may cause some distraction. Just wondering since I was thinking about replacing the fence on my cheaper saw with an Incra.

Mark

[Chris Rosenberger]

Nice saw Per really! :)
Please don't take offense and maybe I should let this go since I'll probably never own one because of the cost; However, it seems a bit disappointing that the original fence had to be replaced.
This setup looks as if cutting a panel 30" or so the Incra would stick out from the saw that much. If wanting to leave that setup for a while it may cause some distraction. Just wondering since I was thinking about replacing the fence on my cheaper saw with an Incra.

Mark

Mark,

One of the least talked about features of the Incra fence is repeatability. The fence has a positive lock every 1/32 of an inch. There is an etched stainless scale on the fence. You can make a cut, move the fence for a different cut & then come back to the original measurement. It will lock into the exact same spot.

Chris

[John Hart]

...I would like to publicly Thank Mr. Ken Wagg
for his info on Renaissance Wax....
Per

I just saw this post and then went back to the original discussion.... Did you know that there are people out there (me) that didn't even know that you should treat your surfaces?

Man!! I need to get out more!

Thanks guys...I'll pick some up.

[Per Swenson]

There is nothing wrong at all with the stock ss fence!
You just have the option of ordering it with out one.
I took it. The saw stop fence is a $289 accessory.
So on sale, I paid a $100 for the privledge of
the incra, and
having one of da blingest saws on da block.
Now about the arm extension, I have the room.
About the 32 inch rip, if I had to, and I don't,
(thanks to my festool collection) I can extend the rails
to the right, (6 little bolts,3 minutes) and cut 1/1000
of a inch off a 49 inch wide piece of MDF.
really, 32 inch capacity is fine.
Thanks for asking.
Per

[Mike Cutler]

Nice Gloat Per. It's nice to see a post that focused on the functional and quality attributes of the Sawstop, and not just the brake.
The black and gold are definitely "bling". I'm thinkin' a New Orleans Saints emblem, and you're all set.
I've seen the cutaway view of the Sawstop that emphasized the dust collection capabilities, and was wondering how that particular feature is working out for ya'?
Have fun with your new addition.

[Dave Wright #2]

...it seems a bit disappointing that the original fence had to be replaced.
Mark

Mark,

To expand on Per's post a bit, the SawStop is the only table saw I know of that is sold without a fence. They noticed that there are a lot of aftermarket fences out there, and that many discriminating woodworkers will waste a good fence to change to one that has the particular features they want. They decided to set up the deal a la carte. Buying the saw without a fence and switching your current favorite to it is also a good way to save money on this somewhat expensive machine.

The SawStop fences are fine examples of the Bies style. They incorporate a number of upgrades to the design though. Removable faces like the PM. Perpendicularity adjustment pads and magnified cursor like the Jet. Separate cursors and scales for rips off both sides of the blade. Main bolts are countersunk so installation is a no-measure effort. Metal is somewhat thicker than original Bies fences. One debatable point is that the fence is about 5" shorter than a Bies Comm. It extends equally off the front and rear of the saw, but the Bies hangs more out the rear. That may or may not make a difference to people. I was skeptical at first, but the fence length has wokred out fine.

Regards, Dave

[Dave Wright #2]

Dust collection. I don't know how much Per has gotten to cut with the saw yet. Collection is pretty good. I'll hazard some guesses. Non-through cuts 98%. Thin through cuts 95%. Thick through cuts 90%. Cuts that trim the edge of a board by less than the saw kerf scatter a lot of dust across the saw table; maybe 50% capture. Collection may be a bit better when the full guard is in place. Most of what the dust collection misses ends up outside the saw; a little of it leaks down into the cabinet, which should be vacuumed out every now and then.

Dust collection is not an option with this saw. You must connect to a collector. SawStop says 350 CFM minimum in the Owner's Manual. I connected it to a 1 HP Jet canister collector that is probably pulling 600 or so.

[Terre Hooks]

Nothing like a Sawstop thread at Saw Mill Creek to get up to 2 or 3 pages in a hurry.

Per, I'm with ya, buddy. I'd love to have one. The engineering is the best. Extremely well thought out. I've said it a hundred times, and I'll say it again-
If the manufacturers of the current North American designed saws would incorporate a blade guard like the Sawstop, and the riving knife/splitter with the ease of removal/replacement, there wouldn't be a need for the blade stoppin technology.

The guard is 1000 times better than any of these $300 aftermarket overhead guards that obscure everything, take 4 hours to install and are a general pain to fool with.

The negativity towards the Sawstop saw I will never understand. I'm sure most of the people that have a problem with it are the ones that will say they have a problem with Steve Gass' approach and trying to get the Government to mandate. LOL... Guess what? If he were to get it mandated, that would prolly be the best thing to come out of legislation in over 100 years.

[Gary Whitt]

I'm all for someone making a blade guard and riving knife for my saw. :D

I've never understood it..... they'll build a blade with safety features (anti-kickback) but not the above.

Folks would definitely use a blade guard/riving knife that was user-friendly.
Manufactures are too busy building gadgets, though, like Gripppppppppers, jointer-pals,1/10,000th inch increment miter gauges and such. :mad:

[Dave Wright #2]

Gary,

The aftermarket has a good range of guard choices; plenty of overarms plus the shark. There aren't any aftermarket riving knives because the blade raising motion of a conventional North American style saw is incompatible with the riving knife concept. The motor/arbor carriage in a NA style saw pivots to make the blade go up and down. Pivoting would change the relationship of the riving knife peak and the sawblade peak. The motor/arbor carriages in saws with riving knives (Ryobi BT3100, SawStop, Laguna TS, Felder, etc.) moves straight up and down. This feature might well have added more $ to the SawStop than the blade brake. It's not cheap to make a straight up/down carriage that is solid, smooth, and durable.

Best, Dave

[Bob Marino]

Nah, Far from it.
I was born and raised in Hells Kitchen, Greenwich Village, and the
Upper west side of NYC. With all of the expensive private schooling
that goes with it. I presently live in Northern New Jersey and pretend
to be a uneducated redneck. A combination that sounds like,
"Wass it to ya, gowan to da shore?" or " Yew order those flippin
winders yet ,yo?"
I hope this helps your understanding.
Per

Hey Per,

Didn't know that you (as I from Brooklyn) are a transplanted New Yorker. I guess the Northern NJ migration isn't too tough for we New Yorkers ;) .
And folks, Per does not have any accent (other than NY :D )

Bob

[JOSEPH GOVEA]

Hey Per, nice to hear your update on the Sawstop. Like the INCA fence system, as you said HTC mobile is very easy to move around. Glad to hear you are happy with the Sawstop. Enjoy & good luck in your businness venture.:)

[Paul Glanville]

Hello Per. I just joined this forum yesterday - was trying to figure out what kind of saw to buy. I decided on the Sawstop and ordered it. I also have Incra router table system and love it so I ordered the Incra LS from Woodpecker's - do you have to drill any holes or do holes line up?

I also have cramped shop and ordered the HTC mobile base. Thanks for your info.

I had decided on a Sawstop months ago - but back then they were talking about being able to buy a thing and add it to your existing saw and they were seriously planning to NOT build their own saw, etc. Well, things change. About three months ago, I was doing some kind of cutting and reached over the blade and did somthing - anyway, as I reached over, my thumb got kicked back into my chest - I was scared to look at it - feared what I would see. I am a general practice MD and my hands are of some importance to me - I really felt sick. Anyway, the pad of my thumb just sort of was "gone." About 1" x 3/4" of skin and tissue gone. I knew that if I went to ER, they would just bandage it up, tell me to wait until it healed and then consider seeing a hand surgeon to do some kind of flap or something to cover the scar and bone.

So, I cleaned it and bandaged it and kept some ointment on it - washed it couple times a day with hydrogen peroxide and so on - after two months it was healed - you cannot tell anything happened. But boy did it hurt to touch it or bump it for at least 6 wks. It still is a little more sensitive, but the skin is normal and even the fingerprints are totally normal (I was kind of hoping for a change to keep the FBI from finding me - but no go).

So, I am sold on Sawstop - and being more careful also. My first injury in several decades of using machines.

Paul

[Rich Konopka]

Hi Paul, Welcome to the Creek !!! It doesn't take a PhD (or MD in your case) to figure out that the Sawstop is one of the best saftey devices to hit woodworking in a long while. However, in your case we'll excuse you ;):p:D:rolleyes:

Glad to hear your thumb is A-OK and welcome to the Creek.

Best Regards

[Per Swenson]

Funny thing about table saws, shapers , jointers, work with them for
years and like a rogue elephant ,they will turn and get nasty.
Glad you are Ok though.
The only issue with the incra rails, you are going to need longer
bolts then incra provides on your extension table.
Good luck and I hope this helps.
If you have any problems or issues, feel free to pm
or e-mail me.
Per

[Chris Padilla]

Per,

Nice to see one of the best saws paired with one of the best fences. I got the fence part...but that saw sure does look real, real purty! :) Now, how to make my reliable Grizzly 1023 take a serious nose dive and convince the wife I *need* the SawStop!!?? :D

[Alan Turner]

Paul,

Welcome to the creek. Glad you are OK.

I talked to SS today, and will order one in a few weeks, which is when the new shop will start to be ready for it, and Steve Gaess said that about 80% of his buisness is commercial/industrial, which I found to be interesting.

I am still debating between the 3hp and the 5 hp. Which one are you doing?

[George Summers]

Per,

32" rip w/ the Incra versus 36" w/ one of the SawStop fences; does your work need the 4" difference often? My last saw had a 30" Bies. Since putting the SS into service I have been surprised how often I use the 30" - 36" range. If the other manufacturers get nothing else out of the SawStop design, they should at least borrow the idea of making their "short" fence 36" instead of 30".


Dave

I agree on the 36". I have a PM64A and it seems I was often looking for just that little bit more. I moved the rails to the right to give me 36" right and 6" left. I find that I too use a lot of the 30"-36" range and very very seldom wish I had more than 36".

George

[Paul Glanville]

Hello Per. I thought I posted this question this a.m. but it seems to have disappeared. I am new to this forum and might have sent it into the ozone or something.

Long story - gonna make it short. I decided to get Sawstop months ago when I thought it could be put on any saw. I have been waiting to get a good cabinet saw and decided now was the time. I found out Sawstop cannot be put on other saws and likely will not be so the only option it so buy Sawstop's saw - good thing it seems to have rave reviews so far.

My question is this - I also ordered Incra fence - did you have to drill any holes to mount it or does it bolt right on?

BTW, I consider myself pretty careful with my fingers - however three months ago I did something stupid - a series of stupid mistakes and ended up tearing up my thumb in my table saw - was scared to look at it - I am general practice MD and know what to do for this kind of thing. When I looked I said "Oh s____". Wasn't terrible bad, but about 1" x 3/4" of flesh was gone from pad of thumb. I knew this would heal with big scar and probably be very close to bone with no padding and be painful and would probably require some kind of flap skin graft procedure.... Well, I cleaned it and took care of it - nothing to suture - flesh was gone.... in two months it healed with no scar at all - even fingerprints are normal.... No pad loss - really incredible and I thank God for that warning. Gonna be much more careful, but also getting Sawstop. I ordered today and it arrives next week. Really excited.

Paul

[Paul Glanville]

duh, I guess my first msg did get posted - I haven't done any forum work before and I think I am replying to the question from Alan Turner

But thanks to all of you for the greeetings. How do you post pics? I would like to put up some pics of some boxes I recently made. Is there a recommended size in bytes or resolution?

Alan - I have never had a really good table saw before. My best saw has been the Ryobi BT300 or whatever. I am amateur - very - but I do some strange stuff - find myself cutting thick hardwood a lot. I do have a 16" bandsaw now and love that, but I still want plenty of power - so I got the 5 hp. They happend to have the 5 hp in stock so it was immediate shipping - the 3 hp was over a month wait also. And I gotta have immediate gratification.

So, tell me, do we get any notification of replies to posts in our email, or do we have to check this forum all the time? And will people get upset if I don't reply to a query or comment?

I read some of the heated debate about sawstop at another part of this forum - I just have to say that I totally trust our governent to do what is in our best interest - so legislating the sawstop on all power tools will come - like the new legislation that will require us to floss our teeth daily and the flossing police will be going door to door to check. Anyone who doesn't floss will get teeth removed and be put on soft diet for rest of their lives. Hoorah for Big Brother.

Obviously being sarcastic. I don't think Sawstop should be legislated - I do think it should be offered as an option. If Sawstop weren't making a machine that sounds so good, and if Sawtop were offered on other saws, I would have bought another saw - I would like to let Delta and Powermatic know that they lost a sale - not that they care that much. But I would like to see a big dent in their bottom line due to big sales of Sawstop's machine.

Man, I got long winded - sorry.

Paul

[Keith Christopher]

Paul,

Welcome aboard ! Glad your thumb is A-Ok now. On side note, I think we all cherish our body parts. So happy to hear your injury is not as bad as it could have been and healing nicely. :D

Yes you are right on the money about the Sawstop, it has been debated heated but very civil, that's what makes this board unlike ANY other. Talented people sharing information and sometimes sentiments and sympathies. A good saw is a good saw and I think we all admit that SawStop has made a great saw. But it's the beauty of free enterprise that allows us so many choices. I doubt that it will legislate the device on tools, air bags on cars sure, because just about everyone has a car my guess would be ~ 98% of the US who are legal driving age. But I'm sure the numbers for TS owners is much lower. :) Plus falling asleep at the TS will most likely only injure the operator. :rolleyes:

Can't wait to see the pics. Oh and BTW if you post a gloat or project without pics, well Either Tyler or Mr. Padilla will come in code 3 on you. ;)


Keith

[Alan Turner]

Paul,

When you get ready to post, click the "go advanced" button, and you will see a "manage attachments" section. It is there that you can add pix or other attachments. Limit is 5 per post, and the size of each must be a bit smallish, under 100 whatever units. PixResizer is a free program you can download to change your pix size. There is a box you can check, not sure where it is, so that you get an email notice each time someone posts in a thread you have posted in, but it is not specific as to a question directed to you. At the top of each (or most) screens, there is a button called "new posts" which will give you all of the threads where there have been new posts since your last visit. This is a polite and friendly place so no one is likely to get angry with you for much of anything.

[Per Swenson]

Paul wrote,
"Sawtop were offered on other saws, I would have bought another saw"


You would be doing yourself a disservice.
At the present time, There is not a comparable saw of the
10 inch North American variety available.
Not Delta, Powermatic, or General.
As far as I am concerned the technology
is a free bonus.
So lets not let this thread devolve into
a how many lawyers at the bottom of the sea Joke.
Per

[Christian Aufreiter]

Hi Per,

congrats on the new saw.
I'd love to see more pics of your shop .... WE NEED A SHOP TOUR!!!

Regards,

Christian

[Paul Glanville]

Paul wrote,
"Sawtop were offered on other saws, I would have bought another saw"


You would be doing yourself a disservice.
At the present time, There is not a comparable saw of the
10 inch North American variety available.

What I meant was, if Sawstop were not making a saw and if other companies were offering it on their saw as the inventor of Sawstop wanted, I would have bought another saw - or if there were no such thing as Sawstop, I would have bought another saw.... duh, or something like that.

I got the HTC base - they had them in stock and shipped immediately. Man, I can hardly wait..... I basically have never used anything better than the Ryobi BT300 or whatever.... My accident with my thumb was because it is so darn hard to crank blade up and down unless I clean it all the time - and I cut a thin piece of wood with blade very high 'cause I was too tired of hard cranking to get it down....

I am also very tired of having to tweak the saw, blade and table all the time to keep it really accurate....

Paul