Ideas for HUGE art frame (5'x6')

[Patrick McCarthy]

I previously make a shadow box (?) frame (4 inches deep) for an art project by one of my daughters, but it was a mere 30x42".

Another of my daughters recently purchased a piece of art that she wants to be framed similarly . . . . if that is possible, so she can hang in her office. However, this artwork is a laser cut piece of paper that is five feet by six feet. I envision a box maybe 4 inches deep, with a cleat across the top to hold (pinch) the top of the paper and hold it off the back by an inch of so, and then glass/plexiglass/??? over the front, and probably recessed a bit for shadow lines,depth detail, etc.

Where do i even source such a large piece of thin glass?

What are my alternatives to protect it?

I am concerned the weight of the glass would require quite a sturdy (thick) frame, which would detract from the otherwise delicate piece, but understand the need for rigidity. I envision an "L" shaped profile on the frame such that the heel of the L would be on the back of the frame and add strenght, but am stumped about the glass or other material for the front.

Open to any suggestions, as dad doesn't want to disappoint one of his daughters . . . . thanks in advance. Patrick

[glenn bradley]

I have a very large and very heavy mirror over the fireplace. There is a plywood back constructed of 2 thicknesses of 3/8" material laminated together, face to face. One is slightly smaller than the other to make a step around the outer edge for the frame to surround. The mirror appears to be attached to the ply (construction adhesive?) and the frame components are simply "trim" although it looks like a picture framed mirror. Perhaps a similar construction method would remove the load-bearing from your actual deep frame parts so they could retain their delicate look(?)

[Jamie Buxton]

I'd focus in on plastic, not glass. Glass is a better material when scratching is a strong possibility. In your case, the artwork and the glazing will just hanging on a wall, and the plastic is unlikely to get scratched. In return for choosing plastic, you get a lot of benefits. Plastic is lighter. Plastic doesn't break into knifelike shards when accidently hit, or if it lands on the floor in an earthquake. Plastic can be cut and drilled with woodworking tools.

The usual acrylic sheets are 4'x8', but bigger is available. Here's a shop in Los Angeles which offers sizes up to 100"x150" -- http://www.lasignsupply.com

[Patrick McCarthy]

Glenn and Jamie, thank you much for the ideas . . . .and the link. 9x12' is some pretty big stuff . . . guess i need a bigger truck, LOL. thank you, patrick

[Joe Kieve]

Have you thought about how to hang that large frame? Since you're still in the design stage, you might consider using a "french cleat". You can design it so that it will hang flush with the wall and be exceptionally strong.

[Steve Rost]

I will echo what Joe and Jamie say. I have used plastic in the place of glass for safety reasons and french cleats will hold the heaviest frames. I have also reinforced heavy frames with flat metal "L" braces attached with screws. A 5x6 ft piece for the backing stiff enough and light enough will be difficult. I would get my stiffness from the frame and use fabric for the backing material and maybe no plastic. Unless it needs protection.

[Harry Hagan]

I will echo what Joe and Jamie say. I have used plastic in the place of glass for safety reasons and french cleats will hold the heaviest frames. I have also reinforced heavy frames with flat metal "L" braces attached with screws. A 5x6 ft piece for the backing stiff enough and light enough will be difficult. I would get my stiffness from the frame and use fabric for the backing material and maybe no plastic. Unless it needs protection.

If your wallet can take the hit—use a second acrylic sheet on the back.

[James Baker SD]

Pat:

Is it valuable art? In that case you probably want UV blocking plexi in front and acid-free museum mounting materials for mats and mounting. I mounted a 7'x3.5' art print my wife brought home from Europe, reasonably valuable (for us at least). I used bass wood for the frame, pinned the corners with big dowels while it was still in the clamps, and used acid free materials everywhere, UV plexi in front. It is pretty heavy, but has been on the wall as near vertically as possible for a couple of years now with no problems. Your picture is larger still, but it should be doable.

James