Rip Blade hit 2 screws. Seems OK. But must have been effected?

[Don Morris]

I was given a 12/4 square piece of cherry 5' long by my neighbor which had been sitting on a back table for over 20 years. There was so much oxide on it I couldn't tell it from some poplar he also gave me until I face jointed it. To make a long story short... I it hit 2 screws. Blade seems OK, but I'm no expert on how sharp a blade it my rubbing my finger over it. Or is it axiomatic: hit a couple screws...send it in for resharpening?

[HANK METZ]

If the screws were hardened, you're in for trouble, if mild steel you may have dodged a bullet, if brass no worries. Carbide tips used in metalwork such as cutoff saws are a special grade able to withstand what's called an "interrupted cut", hard to say what yours is, but if it wanders in a normal cut, you did some damage.

- Beachside Hank
Improvise, adapt, overcome; the essence of true craftsmanship.

[john lawson]

Just check the blade carefully for chipping.

If a couple of teeth are chipped, but not too badly, rip a piece of wood and check the cut. If the cut is ok your good to go.

I have hit a lot of nails and few screws. I'm about 50/50 on ruining the blades. Many times it has little effect.

[Lewis Ehrhardt]

I would NOT use it again. I hit something similar a few weeks ago with a Diablo blade. Five of the carbide tips came off a few cuts later, cutting me up pretty good. I was glad I was wearing glasses and even though I had a long sleeved flannel shirt, it still cut me on the arm. Felt like someone shooting me with a pellet gun.

[Don Morris]

I cut the pieces of wood with the screws to retrieve them. I took a hacksaw to one and was able to relatively easily cut into it. Does that make it a non hardened screw?

It says on the blade: Amana Tool "Industrial Quality Euro-Rip Blade. I remember buying it years ago, and at the time I thought it was supposed to be a high quality blade. I haven't used it much, mostly because I just use my Forest WW II blade. Only reason I was using it, this was 12/4 and I had 3 of them to cut the sap wood off. A close inspection of the blade reveals nothing abnormal, no breaks in the solder joints, no chips, dents, etc. Cuts still seem as smooth as a rip blade can produce. I always wear eye protection, half mask and a shop apron when working on the TS. At this point, I'm inclined to continue using it. But Lewis's comments make me a little nervous, I inspected that blade really, really well.

[HANK METZ]

The most common form a hardened wood screw takes is a drywall screw, if it looks like the below image then it's probably made of mild steel.

250484

- Beachside Hank
Improvise, adapt, overcome; the essence of true craftsmanship.

[Jack Lemley]

I was given a 12/4 square piece of cherry 5' long by my neighbor which had been sitting on a back table for over 20 years. There was so much oxide on it I couldn't tell it from some poplar he also gave me until I face jointed it. To make a long story short... I it hit 2 screws. Blade seems OK, but I'm no expert on how sharp a blade it my rubbing my finger over it. Or is it axiomatic: hit a couple screws...send it in for resharpening?

Don,

The thought of a blade tip coming off at full speed is pretty harry to me. If it is a high end saw blade I'd send it to Forrest or someone comparable for full inspection and sharpening. If average or low end blade I'd chunk it. Not worth the risk to me.

Jack

[Don Morris]

OK, it's off to Forest for eval and resharpening. I'll let them know about hitting the screws and my concern for the solder joints. The screws where I cut them is a #10 in size. They are not the average wood screw thread. I went on line and looked at case hardened wood screws and must say the thread is more like that.