Lenox Resaw Blade Options

[Tom Scott]

I've had a 1" Trimaster on my MM16 for 2+ years now and loved it. Unfortunately I was trying to cut a small log and ended up putting a kink in it. I called Lenox and they said it can't be straightened or repaired (I thought it might be an option to cut the section out and weld in a new one, but apparently not).
So now I really need to replace since I have some old heart pine beams/joists coming my way that will need to be resawn. I loved the trimaster, but paying the $220 again has me wavering a bit. Lenox has several other options: the Woodmaster CT (carbide tipped) would be $141 and the Woodmaster BM (bi-metal) would be $65.
It would be great if you all could tell me how wonderful the BM blade is, how smooth it is and how long it lasts. But, I'll take whatever feedback you can give on these or other options.

Thanks,
Tom

[Herr Dalbergia]

I am using the Woodmaster CT, and I love it!!!! I can not compare it to another carbide tipped blades, but to another very good blade made in germany, the HEMA Ikarus. The Woodmaster CT last soooooooooo much longer, just not comparable to a normal blade...I will never ever use something else than carbide tipped blades, if Woodmaster or Trimaster...we will see. I still have some Woodmasters.

https://picasaweb.google.com/115793185519493121307

[jerry cousins]

just to add confusion - i ran the trimaster on my mm16 for many years and then when i needed a new blade i tried the laguna resaw king - they had a special on them at that time - found a better cut and much longer lasting. unless they have a special it's probably about the same cost.
jerry

[Tom Scott]

just to add confusion - i ran the trimaster on my mm16 for many years and then when i needed a new blade i tried the laguna resaw king - they had a special on them at that time - found a better cut and much longer lasting. unless they have a special it's probably about the same cost.
jerry

Thanks Jerry. I looked at the Resaw King also, but it was even more than the Trimaster. No specials that I know for them.

[Erik Loza]

Very positive feedback from users on the Woodmaster CT.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Gus Dundon]

I always run Haltbarsagen saw blades on my band saw , both the carbide tipped and bi metal. It's totally good.

[Wade Lippman]

Did Lenox say why it couldn't be welded? Maybe one of their dealer is willing to do it. Or maybe you can sell it to someone who can cut it down.
But of course if it can't be welded for some reason...

I had a Resaw King I bought for half price and loved, it, but can't compare it to a Lenox.

[Peter Quinn]

I just ordered a diemaster, 1", 2-3VTP for resaw, I'll let you know how it goes. My research (sketchy at best) suggests that bimetal may actually give the best cost per LF of resaw ratio of the options available, assuming there is no source to resharpen the carbide tips of a carbide blade. Laguna has a resharpen service for their blades, so maybe they win. It seems nobody has a resharpen service for Lenox carbide? If thats wrong please correct me, far from an expert here. I've spent more time using the BS than researching it. My choice was made simple by the fact that I have a pile of wood to resaw but don't have $200+ dollars to spend on a blade presently, and I have no need for an off the saw glue down quality. I've been able to get a one pass per face on a drum sander quality from a basic timberwolf blade, good enough for me, I'm hoping to do a little better with the vary tooth pitch. Only thing I'm not sure of is how these blades like to spin on 16" wheels? Mine are 20", I seem to recall there being some restrictions below 18" on some of these blades, or at least some suggestion that blade fatigue and failure could be premature due to smaller diameter and thickness of blade stock? Where is Van Huskey when we need him!

[John C Bush]

I've had a woodmaster CT on My Griz 20" BS for over two years and it still leaves a great surface. I had a Trimaster on my 18"er prior to my current saw and it had maybe a bit better cut, but not worth the extra 35%(?) premium. I have sawn a lot of not so clean turning blanks, old barn beams, and bark-on small logs and the blade is still doing well. I even found the cut off head of a screw inside the saw and the carbide is still going strong. I wouldn't consider a bi-metal for long term use. If anyone finds a god resharpening source let us know. JCB

[David Kumm]

Lenox changed the steel in their band some years ago to eliminate the breakage problem with small diameter wheels so that won't be an issue. If the kink is in one spot and not spread out it could be cut out and welded. The MM 16 has some range of blade lengths so there might be enough left to salvage it. The CT has a little less carbide and cuts a thinner kerf so it works well with less power. Both need high tension so you need a stout saw. Fewer teeth are also good for resawing with less power too. A benefit to the RK is its thinner band so it can be tensioned by smaller lighter saws. Bimetal will last a fair amount and I've found it likes higher tension too. Dave

[Tom Scott]

Thanks for all the comments so far.

Wade, I was actually conversing with the dealer and not direct with Lenox. They did not say why a new section couldn't be patched in.


If the kink is in one spot and not spread out it could be cut out and welded. The MM 16 has some range of blade lengths so there might be enough left to salvage it. The CT has a little less carbide and cuts a thinner kerf so it works well with less power. Both need high tension so you need a stout saw. Fewer teeth are also good for resawing with less power too. A benefit to the RK is its thinner band so it can be tensioned by smaller lighter saws. Bimetal will last a fair amount and I've found it likes higher tension too. Dave

My old blade was 145" (max length) and the stated minimum on my saw is 142". Unfortunately I think I would have to take more than 3" out to totally remove the kinked area. I never had any issues tensioning the Tri-Master.
I'm leaning to giving the Woodmaster CT (1" x 1.3T) a try. Spectrum Supply seems to have the best prices I've found so far, but haven't pulled the trigger yet.

[David Kumm]

Tom, the newer MM 16 is the stiffest 16" saw out there and the only one that will tension either the Trimaster or CT properly. Centauro isn't noted for fit and finish but makes the strongest steel frame bandsaws. Industrialblades.com has good prices and fast service. Dave

[Tom Scott]

Tom, the newer MM 16 is the stiffest 16" saw out there and the only one that will tension either the Trimaster or CT properly. Centauro isn't noted for fit and finish but makes the strongest steel frame bandsaws. Industrialblades.com has good prices and fast service. Dave

Thanks. I will give them a call (since they don't have much of a website).

[David Kumm]

I'd order it an inch short of max. Blades are not cut exactly to length to keep the teeth distance. I've had max length blades top out on my Olivers. Dave

[Kevin Nathanson]

I'd be interested to know which Trimaster tooth configuration you guys who have them are using? I had a catastrophic, completely moronic user-induced failure of my Woodmaster CT last week. Tried too hard to cut a curve and the tracking was off as well. It's amazing how much noise an Agazzani 24" bandsaw can make when it first folds and then snaps a 1" Woodmaster into four pieces. I won't be doing that again.

Anyway, I'm thinking of replacing that blade with a Trimaster, but I'm not sure which tooth pattern would work best for resawing. If it makes anyone feel better, I need one at 181". Don't you just love expensive learning experiences?

K

[John Lanciani]

Hi Kevin,

I use a 1" 2-3TPI trimaster for resawing. If you search for my older posts I've discussed my setup and results at length.

[David Kumm]

2-3 varitooth is first choice. A straight 3 tooth is second. Dave

I should specify I'm running a blade at 6700 fpm which makes a difference.

[Dan O'Sullivan]

I'd be interested to know which Trimaster tooth configuration you guys who have them are using? I had a catastrophic, completely moronic user-induced failure of my Woodmaster CT last week. Tried too hard to cut a curve and the tracking was off as well. It's amazing how much noise an Agazzani 24" bandsaw can make when it first folds and then snaps a 1" Woodmaster into four pieces. I won't be doing that again.

Anyway, I'm thinking of replacing that blade with a Trimaster, but I'm not sure which tooth pattern would work best for resawing. If it makes anyone feel better, I need one at 181". Don't you just love expensive learning experiences?

K

I have a Trimaster and 2 each Resaw King blades. The Tri M gives you the better
cut.

I have a 1" wide/ 3 tpi on a 20" delta. Very happy.

Dan O'Sullivan in Durham NC
Give me a call if you need to talk

[Kevin Jenness]

We've been using Lenox 2/3t bimetal blades for some time with fairly good results on a 24" Aggazani saw. They stay on for months of intermittent resawing of mostly domestic hardwoods, pine and mahogany in a 4 man shop. I would like to see a smoother cut, but the aftermarket guides on the saw leave something to be desired so that is probably a factor. We recently got a Woodmaster CT 1.3t blade but have yet to use it. The bimetal blades run about $80, the CT about twice that. I expect the CT should prove a better value if we can keep the weekend warriors from running it through a nail or gravel.

From what I have read, the CT blades cannot be resharpened (they have very small teeth), theResaw Kings can be resharpened by Laguna, and some people seem to have found a service to resharpen the Trimaster.

[Rick Fisher]

I went from a Tri-Master 1" x 2-3 Tpi to a Woodmaster 1.3 tpi ..

No regrets at all.. I will order another Woodmaster CT when this one dies. It will however be a few years..

[Bradley Gray]

It has been a while since I've had contact but these guys used to have a room full of band saw sharpening machines:

http://www.bbsaw.com/index.html

[Erik Loza]

I went from a Tri-Master 1" x 2-3 Tpi to a Woodmaster 1.3 tpi ..

No regrets at all.. I will order another Woodmaster CT when this one dies. It will however be a few years..

I feel like the Tri-Master might give a better finish cut in some circumstances but for the price difference, the Woodmaster CT seems to be a lot more blade for the dollar.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Herr Dalbergia]

It is possible to resharpen the Woodmaster CT.