Drawer boxes with 1/2" BB - how to join?

[Geoff Barry]

I'm in the process of making a dresser, and have some 1/2" BB for making the drawer boxes (there will be a false front). I was thinking half-blind DTs, but have had such tearout that I suspect that's not the best way to go. 1/2" seems a bit thin for a lock-rabbit, too. I could just use regular rabbits and a brad nailer, but that seems kind of crude. Alternatively, I could do a lock rabbit with a 3/4" BB front and a simple rabbit on the back. And, of course, I could simply forget about using 1/2" BB, and look for some 1/2" maple or pine, but I'd kind of like to use the BB . . .

So do you use 1/2 BB for drawer boxes, and, if so, how do you join the sides together?

[Matthew Bradburn]

I'm currently using 12mm Apple Ply for drawer box sides, joined simply with #10 biscuits. I've done lock-rabbets in the past but the biscuits are faster and seem to work well enough. I've done dovetails for solid wood sides but don't really see the point for plywood -- at this point we've admitted that it's a product of technology and we can forgo some of the traditions. :-)

[Tom Blank]

I have used 1/2" Baltic Birch on drawer boxes (with a false front) for some shop cabinet drawers using Whiteside's WS 3347 (http://www.holbren.com/whiteside-drawer-lock-bit-1-ld-x-1-2-cl-x-2-1-8-ol-1-2-shank.html) Locking Drawer Glue Joint router bit on the front end and either a rabbet or a butt joing with screws on the back end. They are holding up so far. It took a bit to figure out the set-up the first time, but once it’s right it is a nice fitting joint.

Holbren honors a discount for SMC contributors.

Tom



Tom

[Jamie Buxton]

Yeah, dovetails don't work well in plywood. I just use a lock rabbet, cutting the entire joint on the tablesaw. If you're using an applied front, you don't need 3/4" plywood for the drawer-box front -- 1/2" will do just fine.

[Richard McComas]

The locking rabbit is the joint of choice for myself when use 1/2'' BB Plywood. In my opinion and experience there's enough thickness in the 1/2'' to make a good drawer.

If I have many to do I'll set up the shaper and keep the tongue between the table and the cutter for consistence thickness.

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o159/rmccomas0043/Alaska%20Life/Finished%20bloodwood%20cabinets/lockrabbitLarge.jpg


http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o159/rmccomas0043/Videos/th_drawers.jpg (http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o159/rmccomas0043/Videos/?action=view&current=drawers.mp4)

[Brian Brightwell]

Would a box joint work for you. I find it simple and strong for plywood.

[Mark Wooden]

Richards method is easy and reliable. I have a lot of drawers built with that joint and no failures for over 10 yeears

[Eric DeSilva]

Got a domino, by chance? I'm doing some drawers with 12mm BB and just punching some 5mm dominos through the sides into the fronts/backs. I have to flush saw the excess that pokes out, but it seems quite strong and even has a bit of decorative flair.

[Todd Burch]

I use box joints exclusively for drawer boxes. Never, EVER, have had a failure and I've built hundreds of drawers over the last 20+ years.

Probably overkill.

I've seen, too many times, 1/2" BB drawers, butt joined and nailed on roller slides, and they seem to be working fine. Go figure.

Todd

[Cary Falk]

I have been using a locking rabbit also. I have draw lock bit that I want to try but the rabbit is pretty easy.

[George Bokros]

I have used both lock rabbit and drawer lock router bits successfully but i always score the baltic birch with a utility knife to minimize the tearout.

[Peter Quinn]

I've used tongue and rabbit joints, a drawer lock cutter.. Finger joints, biscuits, and pocket screws all successfully, depends on the application and budget for me. If they are running on slides strength is less a concern, so almost anything will do. Finger joints are the strongest IMo

[Dave Novak]

I recently built my grandson a large lego play-table using 1/2" BB joined entirely with dominoes. fast, easy and strong.

[Harvey Melvin Richards]

I've made several hundred drawers out of Baltic Birch or Apple Ply and I used dovetails on all of them. I've never had an issue dovetailing either one of these plywoods.

[Hovey Moore]

I don't like lock miter joints because they look too much like they were made at a factory, plenty strong and serviceable though. Glue and brads is plenty strong enough, but admittedly not very pretty. Did this for thousands of drawers when I worked at a cabinet shop. Locking rabbit joints are simple, strong, and easy to make. I find that you have to score BB to cut through dovetails without bad tear out but that is easy enough to do. But my current method is to use my half blind router jig as it is quick and any tear out is hidden inside the joint. Plus you get a good chuckle when people admire your dovetails. Lacking a dovetail jig I would go with finger joints if the piece is for show, and a locking rabbit if not. Both are pretty fast and look nice.

[John TenEyck]

I really like the look of finger joints for BB drawers, and have used them often. A simpler yet strong and very attractive option is a simple butt joint, or rabbeted joint at the front if not using a false front. After the glue sets go back and drill holes for dowels of your choice, at whatever spacing pleases you, glue them in, and then cut them off and plane/sand flush.

John

[Geoff Barry]

Thanks, all, I appreciate the input. I may experiement a little more wit DTs and a backing board, but otherwise I'm leaning toward a rabit of some sort. I'm building this dresser as a test run, so I guess one of the things I now know is that next time I'll build the drawers out of solid stock :)

[glenn bradley]

The locking rabbit is the joint of choice for myself when use 1/2'' BB Plywood.

+1 on the "drawer-lock" joint. I use the tablesaw or a task specific router bit with equal success. My 1/2" BB ply shop drawers are done this way and have been in daily service for years. Here's an example of 1/2" ash and 1/2" BB ply done with the task specific router bit:

250405 . 250406

[Larry Copas]

To prevent splintering and blowouts on the BB you might try climb cutting. That's how I just did forty drawers and pullouts with only a couple of oops.

I think solid stock, especially for a dresser is the best choice.

[Alan Bienlein]

Thanks, all, I appreciate the input. I may experiement a little more wit DTs and a backing board, but otherwise I'm leaning toward a rabit of some sort. I'm building this dresser as a test run, so I guess one of the things I now know is that next time I'll build the drawers out of solid stock :)

Dove tails in ply are a piece of cake! All of these were made from 1/2" plywood bought at Home Depot. No blowouts!
250423250424250425

[Dave Novak]

Guess I just don't get it. If your making "heirloom quality" furniture I'd use solid wood and dovetail the drawers. For plywood drawers, why aren't biscuits or dominos just fine? Plenty strong, not ugly, and easy.

[johnny means]

Why not use BB for heirloom furniture? Surely modern techniques and materials have a place in fine furniture. How many fine antiques have sticky drawers because the makers didn't have the option to use more stable materials like plywood?

I use pocket screws and glue for my plywood drawers. Once you mount the false front and install the drawer their not visible at all.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

+ 1 on the Domino very fast, easy, and decorative. Tom

[Matt Meiser]

If I'm doing BB drawers I do pocket hole screws.

[Alan Schaffter]

This is a personal decision based on ability, tooling, convenience, and personal aesthetics. Dovetails work with a good backer, sharp bit, and taking it a little slower. Box joints are quick and easy (especially if you have an I-BOX :) ), but all the joints and methods mentioned in this thread, including the special locking drawer joints and lock miter joints if you take the care and time to set them properly, will work fine.

I dovetailed all my shop drawer boxes that were made with big box store 1/2" ply- not Baltic Birch, but the kind with more laminations than regular ply but with relatively brittle surface veneer.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1414/medium/PB190036.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1414/medium/P9270147.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1414/medium/P8220096.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1414/medium/P8230101.JPG

[Brian Brightwell]

Good job Alan. Nice looking cabinets for not a lot invested. I got my base cabinets out of the dumpster at work. So I didn't get all the practice you did.

[Alan Schaffter]

Good job Alan. Nice looking cabinets for not a lot invested. I got my base cabinets out of the dumpster at work. So I didn't get all the practice you did. The solid wood was almost free- white oak harvested when they cleared trees from my lot prior to building my house.

[Steve Peterson]

I just use fiinger joints. There is so much surface area to hold the glue that they cannot move.

My hardwood supplier has 1/2" by 8" or 12" by 60" pre-finished baltic birch pieces for use as drawer sides. The sides have a bullnose roundover before finishing. They work great for drawer sides and save the finishing step. Cut them in half for 4" or 6" tall drawers.

Steve