Homemade quick change handle?

[Lee Alkureishi]

Hi all,

Has anyone tried making a camlock style handle, similar to the Thompson /Jimmy clewes ones?

If so, can you recommend a good, cheap source for the camlock part? I'm wondering whether a keyless drill chuck might do a similar job?

Not trying to take business away from me Thompson - I just enjoy making my own tools :)

Thanks in advance,

Lee

[Thom Sturgill]

Just bought the materials to make some using Hosulak adapters in an aluminum handle, but would be interested in a cam lock. Have you asked DT? He does not list that handle on his site that I could see. When I saw it at a symposium last year I thought he said it was a prototype.

[Jamie Donaldson]

250325Lee- several years ago I made an improved version of my old mini hollowing tool holder, using a keyless chuck from my stash of old drill chucks from salvaged drills. It has worked like a champ and allows use of a variety of my homemade tools. Screwing a headless fine pitch bolt into the chuck gives a stub which can be epoxied into a turned handle, having evolved from older handles which held the tool bits in a slotted handle and tightened with a hoseclamp.

[Michael Mills]

I have a couple very similar to those shown by Jamie. My 1/4" chuck is keyed but my 1/2" chuck is keyless. Both hold just fine and between them I can hold almost size item I wish.

[Lee Alkureishi]

Thanks for the info - that's exactly what I wanted to hear :-)

[Josh Bowman]

I've meaning to get around to making some of these, a member in our club uses them and they work great. He has a knurled knob on the 7/16" all thread draw bar and simple twists the knob a 1/2 a turn and taps it down on the bench and the tool is loose. The business end uses an R8 mill collet like these: http://www.shars.com/product_categories/view/4081202/R8_Collets (http://www.shars.com/product_categories/view/4081202/R8_Collets) 250328

Basicly you'll have a tube/handle that supports the collet with a draw bar connected to the collet and then to the knob on the back of the tube.

[Mike Stephens]

Hi all,

Has anyone tried making a camlock style handle, similar to the Thompson /Jimmy clewes ones?

If so, can you recommend a good, cheap source for the camlock part? I'm wondering whether a keyless drill chuck might do a similar job?

Not trying to take business away from me Thompson - I just enjoy making my own tools :)

Thanks in advance,

Lee




When is Doug going to offer the Jimmy Clewes handle for sale on his web site?



I've meaning to get around to making some of these, a member in our club uses them and they work great. He has a knurled knob on the 7/16" all thread draw bar and simple twists the knob a 1/2 a turn and taps it down on the bench and the tool is loose. The business end uses an R8 mill collet like these: http://www.shars.com/product_categories/view/4081202/R8_Collets (http://www.shars.com/product_categories/view/4081202/R8_Collets) 250328

Basicly you'll have a tube/handle that supports the collet with a draw bar connected to the collet and then to the knob on the back of the tube.

Josh those look great. Thanks for sharing.

[Harry Robinette]

I believe that the Jimmy Clews handles are only being sold through Jimmy, I don't think Doug will have them on his site.

[Mike Stephens]

I believe that the Jimmy Clews handles are only being sold through Jimmy, I don't think Doug will have them on his site.

I did a quick google search and found pics, but no where to purchase.

[Harvey M. Taylor]

Stewart Batty sells cam-lock handles from 6 in. up to 3 ft. or longer. about 50 dollars, depending on the length. Max

[Thom Sturgill]

Stewart Batty sells cam-lock handles from 6 in. up to 3 ft. or longer. about 50 dollars, depending on the length. Max

Actually, by the time you buy the bolster and adapter they start at $80 for a 12" handle

[Lee Alkureishi]

Josh, those handles look fantastic - I'm going to have to use that design, I think! Cheap, too!

All the best,

lee

[Lee Alkureishi]

Josh,

I just ordered a 3/8", 1/2" and 5/8" collet from the site you linked to - excited to try these :)

7/8" threaded rod was easy enough to find on doitbest. I'm not sure where to find a 7/16" knurled nut, though - any ideas?

Also, do you know what size tube will fit around the collets? I'm guessing it would be a different size tube for each of the sizes of collets?

Thanks in advance,

Lee

p.s. I know I could just wait till they arrive and measure them, but hey - I'm impatient :)

[Marvin Hasenak]

. I'm not sure where to find a 7/16" knurled nut, though - any ideas?



I would use a coupler like this so could use a wrench to tighten the draw bar.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/310NNF-FBrL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

[Mark Eisen]

I've meaning to get around to making some of these, a member in our club uses them and they work great. He has a knurled knob on the 7/16" all thread draw bar and simple twists the knob a 1/2 a turn and taps it down on the bench and the tool is loose. The business end uses an R8 mill collet like these: http://www.shars.com/product_categories/view/4081202/R8_Collets (http://www.shars.com/product_categories/view/4081202/R8_Collets) 250328

Basicly you'll have a tube/handle that supports the collet with a draw bar connected to the collet and then to the knob on the back of the tube.

Excellent idea Josh, Thanks for sharing.

[Josh Bowman]

Lee, I know the collet would work in a 1" thin wall conduit. It doesn't look wonderful since the collet will stick out a little. As for the nut, if you don't have a metal lathe, I'd look at turning the knob out of wood, drilling a hole smaller than a standard nut and pressing the nut into that hole.

Josh,

I just ordered a 3/8", 1/2" and 5/8" collet from the site you linked to - excited to try these :)

7/8" threaded rod was easy enough to find on doitbest. I'm not sure where to find a 7/16" knurled nut, though - any ideas?

Also, do you know what size tube will fit around the collets? I'm guessing it would be a different size tube for each of the sizes of collets?

Thanks in advance,

Lee

p.s. I know I could just wait till they arrive and measure them, but hey - I'm impatient :)

[Thom Sturgill]

I looked up the R8 collet - they are all the same exterior dimensions. - about 4" long and just under 1" diameter in the body and 1.250 at the widest part of the flange. I would probably want to use this tube from Speedy Metals (http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4571-8371-1-14-od-x-065-wall-tube-6061-t6-aluminum.aspx) 1 1/4" OD x 1.120 ID (.065 wall) and cover it with braided clear pvc hose from the borg though the hose may make it a little large. You will want to bevel the end of the tube like shown in the drawing.

I am worried that this would make for a handle that was very heavy at the connection point since the collet is hardened steel. For our purposes, it would probably be better if it were made out of aluminum or even wood.

[Jerry Marcantel]

Sorry about posting what others have already said. Too early in the morning...... Have a good day....... jerry


Josh,
7/8" threaded rod was easy enough to find on doitbest. I'm not sure where to find a 7/16" knurled nut, though - any ideas?
Also, do you know what size tube will fit around the collets? I'm guessing it would be a different size tube for each of the sizes of collets?
Lee

Lee, those are milling machine collets. One size fits all. You'll need only one tube. The threaded rod is actually a 7/16"-20 thread. ............ Jerry (in Tucson)

[Lee Alkureishi]

Thanks for the info everyone - looking forward to giving this a go.

Jerry, thanks for the correction. I did actually order the 7/16 - just have the memory of a goldfish, is all :-)

Cheers,

Lee

[Michael Gibson]

I did a quick google search and found pics, but no where to purchase.
l bought mine over six months ago via Doug Thompson, give him a call he will be happy to sell you one. l like mine a lot. Michael

[Josh Bowman]

Last night I went out to the shop and found that the R8 collets fit and lock into a 1" thin wall conduit, the collet stuck out some, but it worked. Another tack would be to turn a wooden handle with a ferrel on the end and bore an 1.25 champered hole to hold the collet. The R8 collets have a 16 degree 51 minute angle, but really since we're just locking a woodturning tool, the extra, if any, force gained from the mating surface shouldn't be needed. For the nut on the back, without a metal lathe, my thoughts would be to turn a wooden knob with a 7/16" hole through it and a boss that would fit into the conduit or handle, then on the back, drill a hole that would just be slightly smaller than a 7/16" hex nut. Remember, unlike a mill your not trying to over clamp the bit, you're just keeping a turning tool in place. What's nice is the toolless ability to change or remove the tool, by twisting the knob and taping it onto a surface which pushes the collet out slightly and releases it.


Josh,

I just ordered a 3/8", 1/2" and 5/8" collet from the site you linked to - excited to try these :)

7/8" threaded rod was easy enough to find on doitbest. I'm not sure where to find a 7/16" knurled nut, though - any ideas?

Also, do you know what size tube will fit around the collets? I'm guessing it would be a different size tube for each of the sizes of collets?

Thanks in advance,

Lee

p.s. I know I could just wait till they arrive and measure them, but hey - I'm impatient :)

[ray hampton]

Josh,

I just ordered a 3/8", 1/2" and 5/8" collet from the site you linked to - excited to try these :)

7/8" threaded rod was easy enough to find on doitbest. I'm not sure where to find a 7/16" knurled nut, though - any ideas?

Also, do you know what size tube will fit around the collets? I'm guessing it would be a different size tube for each of the sizes of collets?

Thanks in advance,

Lee

p.s. I know I could just wait till they arrive and measure them, but hey - I'm impatient :)

you do not need a 7/16 nut but a 7/32 nut

[Lee Alkureishi]

Hi all,

Well, it took me a while but I finally got around to making the quick change handles using the design that Josh posted. I used the 1" thin-walled tube, and for the bottom I turned some knobs from some scrap honey locust. I drilled and tapped them, poured CA glue into the hole, then tapped them again. Threaded them on, and voila! A quick change handle. Josh, you were right - it does look a bit funny sticking out, but a little better after I wrapped the handle. I may source a better fitting tube at some point, but for now it works just fine :) I think the wood threads should be ok, but if it doesn't hold up I'll epoxy a nut in like you suggested.

I also tried to slide some of the clear plastic tubing over these, but man that stuff is tight! I tried some mineral oil, heating in the microwave and even boiling water, and no go... So, some tape wraps did the job instead :)

There were really cheap to make:

R8 collets - $3-4 each at Shars.com (cheapest I found)
7/16-20 threaded rod - about $10 for 3 feet
Thin-walled pipe - about $9 for an 8 foot length

So, in total I paid about $30 before shipping. I now have 3 quick change tool handles in sizes 3/8", 1/2" and 5/8", and I have enough threaded rod and pipe for a slightly smaller handle - gonna have to order a 1/4" collet :D. Now, just waiting for my HSS drill blanks to arrive ;)

Thom: The handles are certainly a little heavier than a wooden handle would be, but I think the balance is actually not bad. Also, the collet end of the handle is going to be pretty well supported by the tool rest so I don't think it'll be much of an issue.

Thanks again everyone for your advice,

Lee

[Josh Bowman]

Lee, those look great! I like the grips, you got a little golf/tennis/turning thing going on and look comfortable.

[Thom Sturgill]

Lee, they look nice and are costing about the same as the ones I am making now. When our club does public demos (tops for kids) I need to carry gouges back and forth and wanted handles that I could reverse the blade in for protection. The draw bar design prevents that. Currently I use set screws but several manufacturers have gone to knobs, so I may try that now that I scored a small metal lathe. That way I don't have to search for the allen wrench.

To get the braided hose over the tube, I cut it just a little long and soak in soapy water and pour water though the hose a hot as I can get it. Then place the tube on end on the floor and push the hose on in one swift motion.

[Lee Alkureishi]

Hi,

Josh - Thanks :) The grey handle is indeed a tennis grip, and definitely the comfiest. The other two are some splicing tape and friction tape I had - a little less padding, but not too bad. Will try them out before I replace them...

Thom, thanks for the tip - I'll give it a go next time. I think part of the problem is that I was using the clear plastic tubing rather than braided. When heated, it doesn't expand much, just becomes too flexible...

Re: the drawbar design - I agree that it's a little limiting, particularly if you have a double-ended gouge. But, if all you want to do is protect the tips of your tools, it should work fine. The drawbar can be threaded in as much or as little as you like - if you only thread it in an inch or so, it gives plenty of hold while allowing another 3" of space or so for your tool.

For my uses, I'll be using 4"-6" long HSS drill blanks, ground to skew/point/scraper profiles. I should be able to double-end them, giving about 2" of hold in the collet in either orientation. Haven't yet decided what to do with the 5/8" collet - I may buy a nice unhandled gouge, or use some 5/8" cold-rolled steel in a variety of configurations for holding 1/4" hss tips similar to an oland-style tool. Anyone have any better suggestions?

Thanks again,

Lee