question on getting new bearings for a new shelix cutterhead

[Ken Platt]

Folks -

I am thinking seriously about putting a shelix segmented cutterhead in my yorkcraft 8" jointer (it's either that or get a new jointer with one of those cutterheads, I'm tired of the knife changing ordeal). I assume that the current bearings may be fine (they seem to run fine) but if I want to put in new ones, where do I get those? Do they come with the shelix head (it doesn't look as though they do)? Thanks -

Ken in Granby, CT

[David Kumm]

The size will be stamped on the bearing and pretty standard. When I change a bearing I buy a higher quality than generally was installed as they still aren't very expensive. Grade 3 or 5, non chinese. Accurate Bearing is great but those will be available at your local bearing place. Dave

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Typically, I remove bearings and take them to a local bearing company. If they don't have them in stock (they usually do) they can have them shipped and available in 3 days.

If you take a bearing to a bearing company, they can typically take the numbers off the bearing and as David said....sell you a better grade of bearing.

[David Kumm]

While not relevant since your machine is likely to have the original bearings, I have learned- the hard way- to not assume the bearings removed from a used machine are correct. It is always worthwhile to explain the application to a good bearing guy. I brought in a set of bearings for a saw arbor. According to the code letters the bearings were to be used in a motor. Evidently bearings for a motor are spec'd a little looser to allow for internal heat. Not what you want for an arbor. If you do much bearing work a little heater is a nice thing. Dave

[Michael Mayo]

If the new head doesn't come with bearings which I would think is a bit odd then you can measure the current bearings and the shelix head spindles and order the new bearings from http://www.vxb.com/ I have ordered bearings from them many times and they are awesome. Great pricing and fast shipping.

[Peter Quinn]

I got my 8" shelix head for a delta dj-20 from holbren per suggestions here, they shipped it with new bearings pressed on per my request, didn't cost much if anything IIR, just the cost of the bearings. No reason to recycle the old bearings frankly given the low cost of new ones and the likelihood that some damage may be done removing the old ones anyway.

As a side note, adding the shelix was a great upgrade, wish I'd done it years ago, works great, easy to do. You might call Byrd to see if they know the spec for your jointer, or call the parts number for yorkcraft if its still in existence to see if they have the bearing numbers, save you the trouble of a partial tear down before getting the new head.

[Cary Falk]

I have found bearings at a local pro sport motorcycle shop and various auto parts stores. All of them were off the shelf.

[Rich Riddle]

I got my 8" shelix head for a delta dc-380 from holbren per suggestions here, they shipped it with new bearings pressed on per my request, didn't cost much if anything IIR, just the cost of the bearings. No reason to recycle the old bearings frankly given the low cost of new ones and the likelihood that some damage may be done removing the old ones anyway.

As a side note, adding the shelix was a great upgrade, wish I'd done it years ago, works great, easy to do. You might call Byrd to see if they know the spec for your jointer, or call the parts number for yorkcraft if its still in existence to see if they have the bearing numbers, save you the trouble of a partial tear down before getting the new head.
Holbren made me the same offer but I had already ordered new bearings. Do NOT re-use the same bearings; it's false economy. If you are not set up to install bearings, order the head from Holbren with them installed. I can tell you from experience that those little squares are quite sharp on the Shelix and even with cardboard and gloves you might get a nick holding onto the head while installing the bearings.

To answer your second question, I use bearingsdirect.com or call Lynn at Accurate Bearings at http://www.accuratebearing.com/ She will guide you toward the correct bearings but you must have your measurements first. She's saved me from ordering the incorrect bearings a couple of times when I was considering using ZZ bearings.

[Ken Platt]

Folks, thanks very much. I'll call Holbren tomorrow, and I appreciated the links to sites to buy replacement bearings.

Ken

[John Piwaron]

Bearings are so much more complicated than the above posts imply. The ABEC grade differences are in tenths. That's not a lot.

There's a lot of other factors that are important too. Open, shielded or sealed. On one or both sides. What kind of lubricant inside. What kind of steel they're made of.

For woodworking I'd make sure you're getting sealed bearings. On both sides. Most of the time that's with rubber, but teflon seals are available too on at least some models. Make sure you get a bearing made of the steel appropriate for your use.

Install it correctly too. No using the outer race for anything - no pushing, pulling, pounding, pressing - nothing. Push on the inner race only. There's lots of ways to damage bearings. Be careful.

My bearing catalogs are at work or I'd say more.

[Jim Andrew]

I used to get new bearings at my John Deere dealer. They carry good grade bearings, and have about any bearing available. However, the corporate office closed my dealership, and the new dealer built a new store 50 miles away.