Laminating Bowl Turning Stock?

[Brian Kent]

I am looking around for more bowl turning stock. Most of my remaining sycamore firewood is too cracky. I have some wonderful Padauk left over from a chair project. It has been drying for several years. 1-3/4" thick, 9-1/2" wide, 6 feet long. I can make a whole lot of platters or shallow bowls. Is it legit to laminate this for some 3-1/2" or 5-1/4" thick stock? Of course I would like a continuous grain pattern, but this seems like it would work anyway.

What do you think?

On the other hand, every time I make something from Padauk I have an orange garage.

I also have a small but delicious looking cocobolo, which I'll probably set aside for tool handles.

[David Walser]

I have some wonderful Padauk left over from a chair project. It has been drying for several years. 1-3/4" thick, 9-1/2" wide, 6 feet long. ... Is it legit to laminate this for some 3-1/2" or 5-1/4" thick stock? ...

Of course it's legit. You might prefer taking a slightly different approach that will allow you to produce more, and larger, bowls from your flat stock. Read Bob Hamilton's article: True Economy: A bowl from a board and watch the companion video. Here are the links: http://bobhamswwing.com/Articles/economy/TRUE%20ECONOMY.htm and http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=200B23AC7D271D38

[Brian Kent]

Thank you David. I look forward to that.

[Michelle Rich]

bowl from a board is a great economical use of lumber..you can also laminate up blocks. Google up laminated bowls ..you will get many ideas

[John Keeton]

Brian, here is a thought on the padauk. You could use what you have, in conjunction with some other contrasting wood (maple?) to create some interesting hollow forms done without having to use a hollowing system. These forms were done in "halves" as two separate "bowls" and glued together. The seam is either done at a glue joint with the contrasting wood, or, it is masked by some form of accent such as the beads, or a textured band. You can also use dyed veneer on either side of the maple to accent the inset.

The accent and/or glue joint needs to be at the 2/3 - 1/3 point on the form to work, or alternatively, it could be a part of an accent band/collar higher on the form after the shoulder returns back toward the mouth. That method would require an undercut shoulder on the bottom half, however, and may not be something you would want to try just yet.

Just something to think about. I don't particularly care for just gluing up the wood in a stack - particularly nice wood that has much better potential. Regardless of what you do, the glue joint will be a distraction. You really need to incorporate the union in a design plan.

[Brian Kent]

Beautiful pieces and a great idea, John.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I have did what John suggested. I picked up from my sister so 8/4 walnut and maple. I glued these together to get a contrasting 4" bowl. Since these bowls are art I sandwiched walnut between two 8/4" maple and the other way around for 6" bowls with contrasting bands. Wife loves hers and uses hers to display fruit.

[Nate Davey]

The "John Keeton" on the side of each of the bowls is beautifully done. Very uniform and accents the wood nicely!

[Brian Kent]

I tried to use your idea, John, but I don't know how to write "John Keeton" on the side.

[John Keeton]

And, an excellent result, too!! The "John Keeton" is done using a highly secret technique!;):rolleyes:

You should be pleased with this one, Brian!

[Scott Hackler]

lol funny stuff!

[Brian Kent]

And, an excellent result, too!! The "John Keeton" is done using a highly secret technique!;):rolleyes:

You should be pleased with this one, Brian!

I understand - a master does not unveil all of his secrets!