Non-card scraping

[Victor Robinson]

I've posted here before about my general dismay at sharpening card scrapers, and while I recently had an epiphany and was able to sharpen them a bit more consistently, it's still a hit-or-miss prospect for me.

With my birthday coming up, I'm considering an upgrade to card scrapers and not sure which to go with. My main use for this new tool would be smoothing inlay in veneered and solid wood surfaces. It's something a well-tuned block or smoother can often handle, but tricky grain makes it risky and I do not like repairing veneer/inlay I've spent a great deal of time on!

I'm thinking the thicker blades and 45 degree bevels used in these tools will work better for me when it comes to honing and burnishing. Maybe that's a false assumption. I'm confident the ergonomics of these tools will be better/more pleasurable to use than cards.

Options...(veritas):
cabinet scraper (cheapest option...definitely a step up from cards?)
small scraping plane (might be the best bet for intended use?)
regular scraping plane (probably too large for the type of work I'm thinking...)

Recently saw a nifty post on another forum regarding the use of appropriately-sized carbide insert knives in the small scraping plane. Seems like that would be a killer combo if it works well.

[Michael Dedon]

My all time favorite for smaller work is a Sargent #53. It's like a #80 but with a true adjustable frog for blade pitch. I got mine (3) for about $75 each from the usual online auction sources. The Veritas #80(?) is a good choice. The handles hang at a better angle for me than a vintage Stanley. As for the beveled blade, I find it easier to get a working edge but for fine work I still go back to my card scrapers.

[Jerry Thompson]

I havw been using card scrapers off and on for years. I left one in a drawer for a long time and it rusted due to me not protecting it well. I bought a LN and it it the best one I have ever used. It sharpens readily and stays that way a long time.
I use an old scraper jig to burnish and get the burr. It has degree markings and it is very quick and accurate.

[lowell holmes]

+1 for the LN card scraper.

I think it was Tag Frid that recommended applying a small amount of lubricant, like 3 in 1 oil, to the cards edge prior to burnishing.

I tried it recently and it made an impressive difference in the quality of the hook on the card's edge.

[Charlie Stanford]

I've posted here before about my general dismay at sharpening card scrapers, and while I recently had an epiphany and was able to sharpen them a bit more consistently, it's still a hit-or-miss prospect for me.

With my birthday coming up, I'm considering an upgrade to card scrapers and not sure which to go with. My main use for this new tool would be smoothing inlay in veneered and solid wood surfaces. It's something a well-tuned block or smoother can often handle, but tricky grain makes it risky and I do not like repairing veneer/inlay I've spent a great deal of time on!

I'm thinking the thicker blades and 45 degree bevels used in these tools will work better for me when it comes to honing and burnishing. Maybe that's a false assumption. I'm confident the ergonomics of these tools will be better/more pleasurable to use than cards.

Options...(veritas):
cabinet scraper (cheapest option...definitely a step up from cards?)
small scraping plane (might be the best bet for intended use?)
regular scraping plane (probably too large for the type of work I'm thinking...)

Recently saw a nifty post on another forum regarding the use of appropriately-sized carbide insert knives in the small scraping plane. Seems like that would be a killer combo if it works well.

With regarding to sharpening card scrapers, here you go. The results speak for themselves. The one stroke bit is the key. Most people ruin the edge by making too many passes and therefore turning the burr over like an ingrown toenail.

http://furnituremakersapprentice.net/steel_scraper.htm

[Prashun Patel]

If your goal is to smooth inlays, then I suggest you steer away from scraper planes or cabinet scrapers. They can result in chatter which is just as bad as tear-out. On larger pieces with gnarly grain, there's an argument for these devices because once tuned and set, they are less fatiguing than a card scraper.

However, a simple card scraper will be IMHO the best bet for inlay work. At the WORST, it'll just generate dust. At it's best it won't take many passes over the inlay to get it flush. Also, there's no tricky blade resetting every time you have to resharpen. You just have to watch you don't create a divot (DAMHIKT).

[David Weaver]

With regarding to sharpening card scrapers, here you go. The results speak for themselves. The one stroke bit is the key. Most people ruin the edge by making too many passes and therefore turning the burr over like an ingrown toenail.

http://furnituremakersapprentice.net/steel_scraper.htm

That's a nice clear instructional page. It's nice to see a video of the guy doing the touch up at speed so people don't think that it's a secret magic 10 minute process.

[Adam Cruea]

That's a nice clear instructional page. It's nice to see a video of the guy doing the touch up at speed so people don't think that it's a secret magic 10 minute process.

I'll admit, I was one of those people. However, now I am not afraid of getting a scraper and wasting half a day making it do it's job.

[David Weaver]

I try to plane everything as a final step (have to preface that or charlie will fry me for saying anything about using scrapers), but in cases where I can't get to stuff before it moves after dimensioning, I can live with scraping. The card scraper should be something you can touch up almost without stopping your working rhythm.

Even if your first few tries with the scraper don't go as quickly as the touch up in that video, strive for it. It makes working much nicer to maintain tools at work speed than it does to totally get out of rhythm mentally.

[Dale Cruea]

I fought scrapers for years.
I finally got a LN scraper and the carbide burnisher.
I never file my scraper anymore. I use a stone.

I backed way off of the pressure on turning the edge.

No more problems.

I am still working on getting them perfect every time but I can get a working burr just about every time.

[Charlie Stanford]

That's a nice clear instructional page. It's nice to see a video of the guy doing the touch up at speed so people don't think that it's a secret magic 10 minute process.

Watch him chisel a tenon:

http://furnituremakersapprentice.net/sharpening.html

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I'm just curious - if Victors issues with card scrapers is consistent sharpening, do the scraper planes and such that he's asking about actually make things easier? Don't you still turn a burr on these? Does the 45 degree bevel make turning the hook easier? I've never really turned a burr on a blade like this so I have no idea if it's easier, harder, or if the skills involved in getting a card scraper working translate well to getting one of these cabinet scrapers well honed.

While we're on the subject of these things, has anyone used the LV scraper plane insert? (http://www.leevalley.com/EN/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,310&p=32635)

[Jim Stewart]

Interesting video. I want to make the chair that he had sitting to the left of his bench! I saw a couple of things different from the way I sharpen scrapers. 1.) He did not draw out the edge as most how-to-do-it articles teach. He only used the drawing out method to redo the edge. 2.) I learned that instead of using a block of Maple to stone the narrow edge that I can use my bench edge. One thing I wonder about is filing I was under the impression that the purpose here was to get rid of the stress hardened metal. Is that true? I also was taught that you can tell when the edge is filed by the feel of the glide. I find that pretty much true. Additionally I mount the scraper very low in my bench vise so that it barely sticks above grade. That way it is very easy to hold the file at 90 degrees. I have seen others use a block or a partial sawn block to get that same thing accomplished when flat filing. Card scrapers are a great tool. It is worth a little perseverance to get there.

[Ryan Baker]

I'm just curious - if Victors issues with card scrapers is consistent sharpening, do the scraper planes and such that he's asking about actually make things easier? Don't you still turn a burr on these? Does the 45 degree bevel make turning the hook easier? I've never really turned a burr on a blade like this so I have no idea if it's easier, harder, or if the skills involved in getting a card scraper working translate well to getting one of these cabinet scrapers well honed.

While we're on the subject of these things, has anyone used the LV scraper plane insert? (http://www.leevalley.com/EN/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,310&p=32635)

The scraper planes can be used with or without a burr, but most people seem to think they work better with the burr. I think you are correct that switching to a scraper plane is not a good way to try to avoid problems using card scrapers. For cleaning up inlays, the card scraper is far better than any of the other options.

I didn't realize LV still sold that scraper insert. I just saw that somewhere (might have been David Charlesworth's book), and found it interesting.