Tool handles - which 3rd party handle?

[Thom Sturgill]

Time to dive into the collective...

I have made several wooden tool handles and have generally been pleased with them, though I admit a few ideas did not work too well. However, I am coming to the opinion that being able to remove the steel from the handle to sharpen it may yield better results. It would also let my tool storage be more efficient if I rack blades and handles separately.

So I have been trying to research handles.

I own a Thompson 16" x 5/8" handle that will work for all my 5/8" gouges (though I may leave my Ellsworth in its longer handle), I also own a 20" long foam covered 3/4" handle that holds my boring bars if i want to use them freehand.

I know about the D-Way, Oneway, SB, Serious, and Michelsen handles though I have not used any of them. I also have seen various insert and ferrules that allow blade removal including a kit that works with PVC pipe though I am NOT leaning in that direction.

What I would like to know is which ones work well (probably all), any I've missed (with links?), any known issues, and if any problems have been noticed with the use of quick change knobs. Also comments on handle length vs blade diameter for both bowl and spindle gouges though I may not change my spindle gouges at this time since the handles are generally short enough to not be in the way when sharpening.

[paul vechart]

There are also Trent Bosch brand handles http://www.trentbosch.com/ I just recently bought his 5/8" hollowing set which comes with a 20" handle. They look to be well made...I haven't used it yet but soon.

Paul

[David Walser]

Thom,

I have both Kelton and Serious tool handles. Of the two, I strongly prefer the Serious. The primary reason I prefer the Serious is because of the collet system. It makes changing tools or adjusting the length the tool sticks out very quick and easy. I also like the way the tool feels in my hand. It feels solid. The foam covering absorbs vibrations without reducing the "feel" of the cut. On cold days (rare here in Arizona) the handle does not feel cold. On hot days (frequent here), the handle does not feel hot. When my hands are a little sweaty, the foam seems to absorb the moisture, keeping my grip secure. Some downsides: the foam seems to attract chips. It's an easy thing to brush them off, but they don't all fall off like they do from a wooden handle. I would also prefer to have a greater size selection for both the handle itself and the collets it uses. I use it for full size tools and like the balance just fine. I don't know how it would be for smaller tools. The 17.5" length might be too long and the handle itself might be too heavy. I haven't used it for a large bowl gouge, but I think it would be just fine for that.

My Kelton handle came with my center saver. I only use it for that. My handle is covered in plastic. It's a good, non-slip, surface. Just not as comfortable as the foam covered Serious handle. What I don't like about it is the use of allen screws to keep secure the tool to the handle. I suspect I would feel the same about any other system that uses screws. Kelton has a new handle that is foam covered and uses collets. It comes in different lengths and has a wider range of collets available for the handle. I've only picked one up at a show. My impression was that it felt much better in the hand than the older handle. I think I'd still prefer the Serious handle (the Kelton's collet "knuckle" is huge), but it would be a close call.

HTH

[Thom Sturgill]

I had forgotten about the Kelton handle, I guess I thought about it as a dedicated part of the system. I think it a bit heavy for 1/2" or 3/8" gouges and I have the Thompson for the larger gouges. I hope to see one of the Serious handles at the next Florida symposium in feb or the AAW symposium later this year.

[Jim Burr]

Monster makes very nice handles...I have 4 of them on my Thompson stuff.

[Roger Chandler]

Add me to the Serious Camlock handle fan club. I got mine just a few days ago. I have a Thompson with my name engraved on it and I like it a lot.......but in a cold [er] climate, during the winter, the neoprene cover is so nice and the thing is really comfortable.

Add to that David Walser's observations about the collet system......and the length adjustment that is done with the simple 1/4 turn of the camlock and you have the most versatile system available. Now that being said, the collets are machined to exacting tolerances........from what Scott Trumbo mentioned to me.

The Thompson gouges are machined to exacting tolerances and do fine in the serious handles.........but perhaps not every manufacturer is as precise in the machining of the tang on their gouge, and there might be a fit issue. Scott told me that their experience with the Thompson gouges is that they are finely machined and fit the handles well.

I ordered the 1/2 and 5/8 collets and my Thompson fits the collet.........that was important to me in deciding to get the Serious Toolworks camlock handle.........it is SAWEEEET!

One more thing......if you use a Thompson gouge in a Serious Camlock handle [at least the 5/8" one] the tang is just a bit smaller than the gouge body itself.......it will not slide down into the handle because the collet is so precisely machined....no slop and no room for the extra mass on the gouge to go into the collet, so the full length of the gouge will extend out of the handle, but it can still come out for sharpening, which I also really like!

[Bob Hamilton]

I used the Oneway thread-lock ferrule in the 3/8" size to mount a double ended 3/8" bowl gouge in a wooden handle. I confess that I really didn't have very high expectations but thought it was worth a try. I was quite pleasantly surprised at how well it holds the tool and the lack of vibration in use. If you try them I would suggest that the correct taper template is a necessity, not a luxury. The templates are cheap and take the guess work out of sizing the ferrule tenon. The two smaller sizes of the thread-lock ferrules only have one set screw to hold the gouge in the handle, so I was expecting it to vibrate like crazy. It doesn't seem to. The two larger sizes of ferrules have two set screws, although they are pretty close together. I have not tried them so I don't know if they work as well as the 3/8" size. http://www.oneway.ca/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=64&Itemid=2

As far as 3rd party handles goes, I have several of the Thompson in 12", one Thompson 16", the Kelton that came with my coring system which I also use with a Kelton hollowing blade for Christmas ornaments, the handle that came with my Rolly Monro tool, and a 5/8" bore Oneway handle (16" or 18"??). They all seem to work very well. The Oneway is perhaps a bit more comfortable to hold since it has the resilient sleeve as opposed to bare metal like the Thompsons, but they all do their intended job and allow easy removal of the tool for sharpening. (Including the thread-lock)

Take care
Bob

[John Keeton]

I have Monster handles, and while they are well made, the foam covering tends to pick up chips. I prefer the D-Way handle with a neoprene covering. I think they all will do the job, and the decision probably hinges on your feelings regarding the covering, or whether you want a cam-lock - not an important feature for me.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I have monster and d-way handles. Like John said the monster picks up a lot of chips but they are nice. I find myself using the d-way more often.

[Greg Ketell]

For those interested: I didn't know what the Serious CamLock handle was so I googled it. Not only do I now know what it is but I also found it on sale at highland wood working.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/serious-toolworks-camlock-handle.aspx

"on sale" those buggers are spendy!

[Harry Robinette]

Don't know if the Dave is selling any handles right now but Dave Pebbles makes a padded handle at a very reasonable price from what I've heard.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

I've been using D-Way handles for a while now, and like them a lot. I also use Dave's quick release knob in place of one of the set screws to allow quick removal for sharpening.
At the AAW in San Jose, I bought a set of ferrules from Mike Hoseluk that work like the OneWay ferrules at the end of a wooden handle, but you don't need a template to turn a special profile at the end. They're available on his website. I've made four of them now, and they are awesome - turn the handles to a profile and length that's comfortable for you, drill a hole to accept the ferrule, then drill a hole deep enough to accept as much of the tool as you like. two set screws hold it in place. I used one of Dave's knobs in place of one of the set screws and the result is really sweet.

I like a short handle for most spindle tools and these let me tailor them to my hands easily.

[John Keeton]

I normally do not like to post negative comments about anyone's product, but I had a negative experience with the Hosaluk setup. Like Jeff, I purchased one at AAW in St. Paul, and installed a 1/2" gouge in it. As I was getting ready to present the tool to the wood, in a moment of inattention, I made contact with the wood above the toolrest. The result was a nasty catch - something I do not experience often. When the tool was slammed against the rest, the unit exploded the handle, splitting it 3/4 of the length.

The reason for a ferrule on a handle is to strengthen the handle by containing the wood fibers against being separated by force. IMO, the Hosaluk unit is NOT a ferrule, and actually weakens the handle as its use creates a larger hole in the handle and maximizes the force transfer in the event of a catch. In essence, you have a very large "tool" in a large hole, in unsupported wood.

I hope I am the only one having this experience, but I could not recommend that setup. At first glance, it seemed like a neat idea. But, in application, I do not believe that catch would have had the same effect on one of my other wood handles with the ferrule in place.

[Roger Chandler]

For those interested: I didn't know what the Serious CamLock handle was so I googled it. Not only do I now know what it is but I also found it on sale at highland wood working.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/serious-toolworks-camlock-handle.aspx

"on sale" those buggers are spendy!

Greg.....what you are getting is a finely machined stainless steel unit that has a finely machined SS collet and camlock collar...........the unit is VERY nice! M​ine was the regular price and I am happy I got it!

[Alan Zenreich]

I bought a set of ferrules from Mike Hoseluk that work like the OneWay ferrules at the end of a wooden handle, but you don't need a template to turn a special profile at the end. The metal pieces are only similar in that they hold the chisel. The Oneway threads onto the wood, much like a nut does on a bolt that uses very fine threads. This compresses the wood for a very tight fit (and being tapered, it can later be snugged down if the wood shrinks). So it is performing both a quick tool removal, and ferrule function. The metal Hosaluk adapter is epoxied into a stepped straight hole bored into the handle. This allows the tool to be removed, but isn't what most folk think of as a ferrule.

[Alan Zenreich]

John, one could likely add a conventional ferrule to a Hosaluk adapter. This would strengthen the setup and still allow for tool removal. That said, I'm very happy with the OneWay ThreadLok adapters I've used on a few handles.

[Dick Mahany]

I have several Kelton ER collet chuck handles. The ER25 collet chuck handle is great for my Thompson gouges. I like the fact that I can retract the gouge into the handle to what ever depth I need and no set screws are needed. It's also quite versatile as collets are reasonably inexpensive and I can accomodate different gouges easily. The handle can be loaded with lead shot or BBs to help dampen vibration, but it can get a little on the heavy side. I also use a smaller ER16 collet chuck Kelton handle on smaller diameter gouges and like it very much, although it is limited to 7/16 dia and I bought a custom collet so that I could use my 7/16 Thompson gouge (although the 7/16 special will only allow 1.10" of gouge shaft engagement which hasn't been a problem). The smaller ER16 handle can also screw into the end of the larger ER25 handle if I ever need the extra leverage, but I haven't come close to needing that, yet;).

[Nick Stagg]

I've had some of these since the first prototypes came out at the AAW Symposium in St.Paul.

I've been extremely pleased with them. They're made from carbon fiber, six lobed, and with the iron taper lock bolster, to absorb the vibration, they really are a joy to use. The handles are hollow if you want to add ballast, honestly, I haven't found the need for it


The blades screw into the handles, which takes a few seconds, so changing tools is very quick and sharpening is made easy with no handle in the way.

Various sized ferrules are available for different diameter tools and the handles come in a wide range of lengths to suit the job at hand. They range from 6" to 48" in this sequence..... 48", 42", 36", 30",24, 20", 16", 12', 9", and 6". Unfortunately. I don't have the full range, but I'm working towards it. I really want the shorter ones for up close spindle work.

Pat Scott has done a much better review than I have and it can be seen here:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?191691-Stuart-Batty-Taper-Lock-Handle

They are available from Woodworkers Emporium and Craft Supplies USA

[Thom Sturgill]

In doing my google searches I also came up with an insert sold by hunter tools which is designed to be inserted into a section of PVC pipe. You can then make a handle of whatever length you desire. Another site had a PDF describing how to use the Hosulak insert to make a covered aluminum handle. Out of an abundance of curiosity I ordered both and will fabricate handles to see which (if either) I like.

I saw the pvc pipe handles at a symposium and the demonstrator liked them mostly because they protected the blades for transport. I suspect they might need ballast more than most, though I do not like a heavy handle.

The handle made using the Hosulak adapter looks very interesting as I can make it a bit long and shorten it as desired. Joe Johnson, author of the PDF, uses a capsule made of brass tubing filled with shot and held in place with O-rings to weight the handle. The aluminum tube is covered with PVC tubing.

It seems that what I see available are mostly aimed at 5/8" or 1/2" gouges. 16 - 20" lengths with 12" being available for 3/8" gouges and starting to see 7-8" lengths for 3/8 and 1/4" gouges. Newer configurations like the SB are modular which is a big plus, though I really am not sure about having to epoxy the bolster and adapter. I guess that is the price for the slimmer end. The collet format can get bulky in appearance, and I do not know whether the knobs used to tighten/loosen screws (instead of set screws) would get in the way of different cutting styles.

[Dan Forman]

I don't see any reference to a quick release knob on the D-Way site, can anyone say more about this? Thanks.

Dan

[John Keeton]

Dan, you can get some info from the video here - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLnNkat8UCs&feature=youtu.be

Not sure on the price, but I will see what I can find out.

[Michael Roper]

Time to dive into the collective...

I have made several wooden tool handles and have generally been pleased with them, though I admit a few ideas did not work too well. However, I am coming to the opinion that being able to remove the steel from the handle to sharpen it may yield better results. It would also let my tool storage be more efficient if I rack blades and handles separately.

So I have been trying to research handles.

I own a Thompson 16" x 5/8" handle that will work for all my 5/8" gouges (though I may leave my Ellsworth in its longer handle), I also own a 20" long foam covered 3/4" handle that holds my boring bars if i want to use them freehand.

I know about the D-Way, Oneway, SB, Serious, and Michelsen handles though I have not used any of them. I also have seen various insert and ferrules that allow blade removal including a kit that works with PVC pipe though I am NOT leaning in that direction.

What I would like to know is which ones work well (probably all), any I've missed (with links?), any known issues, and if any problems have been noticed with the use of quick change knobs. Also comments on handle length vs blade diameter for both bowl and spindle gouges though I may not change my spindle gouges at this time since the handles are generally short enough to not be in the way when sharpening.

I have been using the SB Tools carbon fiber tool handles and they are great. Very light and changing out blades is very simple with the taper lock bolster.

[Justin Stephen]

I have my Thompsons in Trent Bosch handles and find them very comfortable to use for long stretches of time. I will buy more as they are needed.

While I have never used one, the D-Way handles look to be very similar in basic design, albeit with all the handles being the same color (Bosch handles come in different colors depending on length) and it looks like the D-Ways are a little shinier.

[John Keeton]

I don't see any reference to a quick release knob on the D-Way site, can anyone say more about this? Thanks.

DanDan, Dave informs me that they will be on the website next week, he hopes, and the cost is $12.00. They have a hardened bolt so they won’t swell up on the end and ruin the threads in your handle, and they are 5/16” by 18 TPI

[mark ravensdale]

Kell McNaughton makes a great handle (Kelton ER25), it's made from stainless steel and covered in dense foam for grip, but instead of using those stupid Allen key screws to hold the blade/gouge it uses industrial collets (metal of course), all you have to do to change blades is slacken a knurled collar/sleeve remove one blade insert new blade and retighten collar/sleeve (only hand tight and the blade is locked solid!!!), also at the rear/back of the handle is a hidden compartment in which you can put lead shot or steel bb's,
these are some FINE woodturning handles (best I have seen ever!!!)
do a google search for "Kell McNaughton" or "Kelton" and you will end up at his website, he's the same guy who makes the "Kelton centre saving system" that's become very popular with many turners,
His products are very well engineered and made to a high standard, I was so impressed I had to have one (and I'am going to get a second one in the very near future!!!)
Check'em out!!!

[Harry Robinette]

I went to Dave Pebble's site and he says he hopes to be back to work soon. Dave makes a pretty nice handle for a very good price.

[Brent Grooms]

another handle not listed is the Bennett handle.... I have 3 and love them, much more so than my Thompson although I will never part with it.

[John Keeton]

I notice that Dave (D-Way) now has his quick release knobs available on the website - http://www.d-waytools.com/tools-handles.html

[Bret Schaffner]

Greg.....what you are getting is a finely machined stainless steel unit that has a finely machined SS collet and camlock collar...........the unit is VERY nice! M​ine was the regular price and I am happy I got it!


Were can you buy the collets for the them

[Thom Sturgill]

Were can you buy the collets for the them

The only similar item I know if is made by Thompson for the Jimmy Clewes line. Jimmy sells the collet separate, but you need to call him, he does not have a web store up and running yet.

[Roger Chandler]

Were can you buy the collets for the them


I purchased my collets for the Camlock handle from the manufacturer......Serious Toolworks......they are available on the ST website.

[Ray Bell]

I guess I don't understand what folks have against set screws? My one and only commercial handle is a Oneway with two different bore sizes on each end, with two set screws. To me it is very comfortable, and if I ever want to change tools it maybe takes one minute as opposed to thirty seconds for a collet. Now to some folks that thirty seconds saved may be significant, but to me as a retired hobby turner it just doesn't matter much.

[Thom Sturgill]

Ray, I could not agree more. All of the handles I built use set screws and I went to a larger size than I otherwise would have, to keep them all the same.

[Dan Forman]

That sixty seconds can stretch to 10 minutes or more if you have to look to long for the danged allen wrench. :)

I bought three of the SB handles in 12, 18, and 24" lengths (if memory serves), and a bunch of the bolsters to fit my most used tools. Ended up being quite an investment, but I'm glad I did it. Now it doesn't matter where the wrench is.

Dan

[Bret Schaffner]

That sixty seconds can stretch to 10 minutes or more if you have to look to long for the danged allen wrench. :)

I bought three of the SB handles in 12, 18, and 24" lengths (if memory serves), and a bunch of the bolsters to fit my most used tools. Ended up being quite an investment, but I'm glad I did it. Now it doesn't matter where the wrench is.

Dan

SB Handles ?? What's "SB"

[John Keeton]

SB Handles ?? What's "SB"Stuart Batty.

[Adrian Anguiano]

So how come everyones talking about how being able to remove the tool from the handle is a bonus when sharpening? Can you explain? Is it when using a certain system? I use the wolverine, varigrind and I dont see how removing the blade would help.

[Thom Sturgill]

So how come everyones talking about how being able to remove the tool from the handle is a bonus when sharpening? Can you explain? Is it when using a certain system? I use the wolverine, varigrind and I dont see how removing the blade would help.

Adrian, when you stand in front of the grinder and try to pass a 24" (or longer) tool in front of your body to blend the nose, you find that you have to do each side separately and stand off to the side to do the nose. Take the blade out of the handle and the 12" blade is no problem.