block plane question

[Steven Lee, NC]

I have a stanley block plane and a veritas block plane. I have sharpened them both the exact same way and am having problems with the stanley. Both on the worksharp set to 25 deg.

I believe the test of sharpness is to use it on soft grained wood?

The veritas works beautifully on poplar endgrain giving me awesome shavings. I didn't realize it was possible to get end grains shavings :)

The stanley however just gives me dust. It even sounds different as I use it. If I keep extending the blade it eventually just catches on the wood and jerks the whole thing. By finger rub test, it feels as if its extended the same as the veritas. Anything else I should check? I'd say that I'm just barely a notch above a hand plane noob when it comes to knowledge.


Thanks

[Jim Koepke]

Howdy Steven,

Your profile doesn't indicate your location. If you are near me, we can meet up and see what is going on. Members in other locations may also be willing to help.

There are many things that could be happening. What model of Stanley block plane do you have? Do you have any idea of how old it is? Also is it low angle, high angle, bevel up or down? Most block planes are bevel up, but there are a few with bevel down.

If you can post pictures that may also be of help.

Another thought is there may be a burr on the blade.

jtk

[Prashun Patel]

Besides Lie Nielsen and Veritas in the 'mass' plane market, there are very few that work well (consistently). Your experience with the Stanley is common. There are many possible reasons for your results, but in my (limited) experience, most plane problems come down to either blade quality or ability to accurately adjust and hold the blade. I don't believe your fingers can feel the difference.

If you are able to get SHAVINGS on end grain, I'd say you know how to tune and adjust a block plane pretty well.

Life's too short to fettle with metal... ;)

[Steven Lee, NC]

I updated my location. Too far from WA. I'll try and take pics tonight.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

My first look at these things is always sharpness. Even if you feel you honed the blade the save, the edge may have prematurely failed, or you may have inadvertently blunted it putting it into the plane or something.

The first thing I would do would be to remove the plane itself from the equation - put the blade itself to the test outside of the plane. I often test my edges by slicing a piece of paper - it's handy where I sharpen, and I've done it enough times with enough blades both before and during/after use that I've gotten a "feel" for how the blade feels making that slice, and how sharp is really sharp.

Any test that's not on wood can be a little misleading at times, IMHO, because we're not shaving or slicing paper or knicking our thumbnails (on purpose, at least) with our planes - but it doesn't take much experience to learn how tests on different materials translate to the planes performance on wood.

So with that said, I think the best test, at least as far as it relates to how we actually use our tools, is to put the blade to wood. You've got a blade that works well for you, so I'd take that out to and have something to compare and contrast to.

Take the two blades out and try slicing that same endgrain with just the blades, outside of the planes. (Be careful and mindful - it can be more difficult to control a blade like this with no handle. Make sure the workpiece is securely clamped.)

Whatever you find, that should tell you right off if you need to look at the plane or the blade. I suspect it will tell you the blade needs attention first, at least, the symptoms you describe sound blade-related.

You don't mention much about how you sharpened other than that you used the worksharp. Did you work the back of the blades? The first thing that comes to mind is that Lee Valley laps the back of their blades to very high tolerances, and the backs don't ever need much work other removing any burr from working the bevel. I've never had a Stanley, new or used, come to me in anything resembling as good a shape - but I haven't tried their newest "Sweetheart" line. the initial work on the LV blade is bound to be much less, and some of the blades from lower priced planes I've come across have needed a fair amount of work to function. (Often good candidates for the "ruler trick".)

[steven c newman]

I will second the part about older Stanley block plane irons. I have YET to find ANY with a flat back. Either they were left too long clamped down by another owner, or just made that way. It doesn't take that long to get an iron back to flat across the back. I did two old irons, in less than two hours, from bad to sharp and flat. Even a $2.87 Buck Brothers from Home Depot, can be made flat and sharp. Just a little elbow grease.

One other point, check around the mouth of that older plane. Sometimes, other owners will clamp things down so tight, that stress cracks will start, right behind the opening. Makes the iron want to dig in, instead of just slide along with a cut.

[Jim Koepke]

One of my problems with a Stanley block plane was the sole was concave over the length. After it was fettled a bit it worked a bit better. It was not as good as most of the other block planes that have crossed my path.

Here is a link to my post about it and other block planes:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?123401-Fettle-to-the-Metal-With-LA-Blocks&p=1246005#post1246005

Hope it helps more than confuses.

jtk