Used vs. new tablesaws?

[Phillip Gregory]

Hello, new to the site and looking to get back into woodworking now that I am finally getting settled down and get to have my own shop for the first time. I will be needing to get a tablesaw and know that I want a good cabinet saw as I will be making furniture. I am very much a "buy what you really need the first time and then forget about it" kind of person and don't like working with cruddy tools. What I have in mind is something along the lines of a 3-5 hp 10" cabinet saw with a GOOD fence system. I have actually never used such a saw before as the nicest saw I have used was a 1970s era Sears 1 hp flexible-drive contractor saw. It was okay for simple stuff like crosscuts in 1" stock but struggled in doing much more than that due to the absolutely horrible rip fence, small stamped-steel extensions, and low-powered motor. The other tablesaws I have used were the little disposable benchtop ones that are roughly a cheap circular saw turned upside down.

The meat of my questions is whether I would do better in getting a used high-end saw like a Delta Unisaw, Powermatic PM66, etc. or getting a less-expensive newer one like the Grizzly G0690/1023R, Steel City 359xx series, etc. I am not trying to neccessarly pinch pennies but don't want to spend $4000 on a tablesaw either. Somewhere in the sub-$2000 range is where I would like to stay. From what I can tell, the advantages of a new saw seem to be:

- If something is broken/doesn't work, you can send it back and get one that works.
- No wear on any parts and no worries about how well a PO used or abused the equipment
- It just shows up at your door a week after you order it
- Newer useful features like riving knives, probably better fences, and better dust collection.

And for a used saw:
- Less expensive, sometimes significantly so.
- Can get a much nicer saw on paper (more powerful, larger tables, etc.) for the same money as new
- Probably better made than newer saws, if you believe the "old 'arn" guys

So, for those of you who have been in my shoes, what did you do and how did it turn out? Did you buy a new saw and think it was cheaply built or wish you had paid half as much and gotten twice the saw in a used saw? Or did you buy an old saw and end up with a basket case?

[David Kumm]

Take a look at the PM 66 listed for sale here. Used saws are cheap, including the 12" Delta- Rockwell 12-14, and PM 72. Fences are usually very good or even Beisemeyer, build quality is high. New saws won't be as well built but will have user friendly economics. Riving knife is important but I've been able to make a substitute that works. I have several used saws but no experience with new Asian so I can't speak for them. Dave

[Stephen Cherry]

Don't fall under the illusion that a new machine will show up ready to go. It will need to be aligned.

And one of the best things about used is if you decide to go in another direction, you should be able to get out of the deal without loosing your shirt. I had a unisaw, and it was fine.

[Cary Falk]

Here is my progression of table saws.

2002 - Sears direct drive bench top saw with legs. The table was not flat. The motor was underpowered. The fence would not lock down straight. I built a lot of stuff with it and worked around all of the problems because it was what I could afford at the time and I would have not built anything if it weren'tfor that saw.

2005 - Delta contractor saw with cast iron wings and a T2 fence. It was a great saw. It was a definite upgrade from the Sears saw. The tables were flat. The fence locked down square each and every time.The motor had enougt power for most tasks. The only thing I did not like was the dust collection and the fact that blade would go out of alignment if it was tilted.

2008 - Bought a used 1970 Unisaw fixerupper. I bought into the Unisaw legend/hype. After replacing broken parts, bunged up arbor, and totally disassembled the saw to free all of the seized up parts it was an ok saw. All of this work is not that out of the ordinary if you look at the sheer number of Unisaw threads on OWWM. Is this really a quality tool after <40 years of life? After using it I was not impressed. The handles rattled, dust collection sucked and it had what is referred to as the Uni clunk at startup. But as with the other saws, I built stuff with it.

2011 - I bought G1023RL for the riving knife and better dust collection. When I got it I gave it a hard once over to try to convince myself that the non Grizzly owners and OWWM people were right and this saw is junk. You can do a search for my review in this forum. I plan on keeping this saw. The build quality is there. The fit and finish is there. After a year and a half, it operates as quiet and smooth as it did on the first day and smoother than the Uni ever was. The riving knife is so much better than the splitter was.

I have never used a PM66. I hear they are heavier built than a Uni. I am sure they will last a lifetime or 4. Will my Grizzly last that long? I don't know. I have seen people that their 25 year 1023 is still going strong. Grizzly's quality wasn't near as good then as it is now. It will last as long as a Uni. My Uni wouldn't have lasted one lifetime if I had not torn it apart and replaced a bunch of stuff. It will last my lifetime plus some and I will have gotten my money's worth out of it

My point as I said in another thread. Buy what makes you happy. You can't really go wrong with a PM66, Uni, G0690, G1023RL, Delta 12/14, PM74, Sawstop, Jet, or Steel City, etc cabinet saw. Everybody seems to be happy with their cabinet saws whatever name is on them.

[Mike Cutler]

If you're willing to spend $2K you can find higher quality used, old iron, versus new. You just have to wait.
The three new saws you mention will all be nice saws that you won't be able to blame your mistakes on. Any of these saws with an after market fence system will do everything you will need to build your own furniture in your shop.
I have a General International hybrid and a Jet contractor with A JessEm Mast-R-Slide and an Excaliber fence system. They do what I need them too, and your choices are technically better machines.

[J.R. Rutter]

If you buy used, the biggest thing is to make sure that it is in good running order. Like Cary mentioned, there is nothing magical about a beat up old saw that will likely never run like new again. A little stiffness in the adjustments can be cleaned and lubed away, but vibration is more difficult to cure. I've had PM66, General 350, and Unisaw - all used and abused to a certain extent. They all got the job done, but none was perfect. Personally, I would be tempted to go new unless you find a cherry on the used market.

[Peter Quinn]

I voted used, but the caveat is if you can find a decent used machine in your area. I would rather have a new grizzly than some beat down junk going for top dollar. I searched for three years for a good used machine, finally bought a new Pm 66, couldn't be happier.... Unless I'd bought a new Hammer slider, but that was not in the budget.

[Mark Ashmeade]

I've had a RIDGID TS3660, RIDGID R4511, PM66 and PM72.

No riving knife on the 3660, and the splitter was inconvenient. Not very powerful, and no dust collection to speak of. But it did have a lovely fence.

R4511 had a tiny table, and a split fence rail. Not very powerful either, but dust collection was OK.

PM66 and 72 were used and worn. Too much money, and more importantly, time, would have gone into those to get them to be where I wanted them. And still no riving knife or blade guard DC. Blade guard at all, for that matter.

I now have a Sawstop PCS. Everything I didn't like about all the others is fixed. There's nothing I don't like about this saw.

YMMV, and your usage may be different to mine. But I have been through many stages to get to where I am, and I am very happy with my TS.

[george newbury]

If you can dedicate time to searching Craigs List, auctions, etc. and wait to get what you want by all means buy used. But what is your time worth?

I probably spend up to an hour a day looking for things on those sites for things I need. I've recently bought 10 sections of lightly used pallet racking for $100 that goes normally for about $3000 used. A Stihl 088 chainsaw and accesories for $450 that easily matches ones sold for $1000 on ebay. But I've been looking for a 20" planer for months.

If my time was really worth $$ I probably spent at least $3000 looking for those and other things. But I'm retired, I do it while listening/watching the news.

I'd vote to look for used for a little bit, but if you don't find one soon buy quality new on sale that met your minimal needs. And still keep an eye open open for that grand bargain. You can always sell the new one you bought.

As far as MY tablesaw (about a 1950's or 1960's Delta) goes, I inherited it from my father who inherited it from his father.

[Joe Angrisani]

In my opinion it really all comes down to the riving knife. New saw, whether a $1500 Grizzly or a $4000 SawStop, will have a true riving knife and all the anti-kickback safety that goes along with it. A used saw will not.

That said, I love my early left-tilt Unisaw. For $900 I got a 5hp single phase motor, a full 50"/52" Beissey fence, a few blades, a dado set, AND a Porter-Cable 7518 Router in a Jessem lift in the extension table. The router and lift arguably drives the net saw price down to $500-600, not counting the blades I got, and for me that makes the argument for used a no-brainer. You simply can't come close buying new.

The only new saw I'd consider would be a SawStop. But I outfitted my whole shop, including a 3hp cyclone, for less than the big SawStop alone would cost. And in my world. cost does matter.

[Jeff Duncan]

I'm a fan of used myself, everything I've bought new has disappointed....and has since been replaced, but I also demand a lot from my machines. Used is a great way to go since it can save you a LOT of money, but also has downsides as others have mentioned. If your handy with machinery in general, and have the time to wait for the "right" machine to come around, then used can be a great option. If your less handy and just want to get to work, than new may be the way to go. I also spend time daily looking on C-list and e-bay as well as a couple other sites even when I'm not actively looking for something. Lastly tablesaws are pretty basic as far as woodworking machines go. If you can test the saw before buying...which I highly recommend, it's unlikely you would end up with a basket case. If you buy at auction there's a lot more risk, though usually much cheaper too! I bought 2 Unisaws and a Wadkin 12" all untested and there was little required to get them running....YMMV

good luck,
JeffD

[Mike Henderson]

There have been some significant safety devices added to new saws recently, most notably the riving knife and the flesh sensing technology. Both significantly help to protect you from injury. While a new saw, such as a SawStop, is more expensive than an older, used saw, getting injured on a table saw can be a life altering event and wind up costing you a LOT more than the cost of the saw.

Mike

[Joe Angrisani]

....most notably the riving knife and the flesh sensing technology. Both significantly help to protect you from injury. While a new saw, such as a SawStop, is more expensive than an older, used saw, getting injured on a table saw can be a life altering event and wind up costing you a LOT more than the cost of the saw.

And there are plenty of tools in our shops that can hurt us just the same. Common sense and safe practices will always be viable alternatives.

[Jay Rasmussen]

If cash is not an issue I would go with a new Professional or Industrial SawStop. The safety feature is a plus but the saw looks like it’s really well built.

[Bill Huber]

I agree with Joe, if I had the money I would get a new Saw Stop.
I like new things, that way I don't have to worry about what someone else screwed up.
It is nice to have a nice new clean tool to start with, then I can screw it up myself.

[Phillip Gregory]

Thanks for the advice. I was already leaning towards getting used over new, this is what I will try to do as long as I can find something decent within a suitable time frame. I have been looking on CL and eBay and the classifieds here for a while. The one thing working against me for finding a used saw would be that I live in southeast South Dakota and there is very little available locally. I wouldn't be opposed to driving the 3 hours to Omaha or 4 hours to Minneapolis/St. Paul or Des Moines but it would have to be pretty close to a "You Suck" deal and be a high probability of me actually purchasing the saw to justify doing so. I have to do some traveling over the next month and will scour the listings during that time. If I find something I will jump on it, else I will probably go ahead and look at new saws and be done with it.

[Joe Jensen]

I went through this progression;

1970-1984 - Dad's very old 1940s Sears Craftsman, very beat up, terrible fence, no guards or riving knife
1984-1990 - Used 1970s Unisaw. Good saw with very early Biesemeyer fence (locally made at that time in Mesa AZ) no guards or riving knife
1990-2006 - New PM66 made in USA, nice saw. Wanted left tilt and liked the saw a lot. Terrible guard, tossed it, no riving knife
2006-2009 - New Sawstop Professional 5HP. Fantastic saw, much heavier than the Unisaw or PM66, great riving knife and guard. Ironically with the Sawstop I used the guard all the time, first time I ever used a Table Saw Guard.
2009-current - Felder sliding saw and shaper combo. Great riving knife and guard but no blade stop tech.

My learnings;
1) I would not buy a saw again without a riving knife and a riving knife mounted guard. They work great and don't get in the way. After 30 years of sawing without a guard I'm not willing to use a tablesaw now without a guard.
2) The Sawstop industrial is a lot better designed and built saw than the PM66/Unisaw/Griz cabinet saws. With all other cabinet saws, the trunion system must be perfectly machined if the blade will stay parallel to the miter slots at all blade heights and angles. This is very complex machining and hard to do. My 1970s Unisaw was ok and so was the USA made PM66. But with most cabinet saws all you can do is shim the top to the trunion to average the error. What you will find with most saws is you set the blade parallel to the miter slot with the blade all the way up and at 90 degrees. Then tilt to 45 and it will no longer be parallel. Also, set the blade 1/2 way up at 90 and it will not be parallel. Some saws are terrible. The Sawstop has adjustments built into the trunion to adjust these errors to zero. Very nice. It also has gas struts to make raising and lowering and tilting very easy. Great saw, in a different tier than the PM66 and Unisaw.
3) Chinese tools. I'm at a point in life were I won't buy a Chinese tool again. They are built on price point first and things like the trunion precision, quality of cast iron, etc are a distant second. If I could only afford a cheap chinese tool I'd only buy locally and I'd measure every important aspect (table flatness isn't a big deal to me) before buying.
4) A large Euro slider is yet another level of saw. Knowing what I have learned and buying a saw today I'd buy a used industrial slider for $2K+ before I'd buy another cabinet saw. (If I had the space)
5) When I have more shop space I'll buy another Sawstop as there are some things that are easier to do on a cabinet saw than on a slider.

[Erik Christensen]

Used is a label that covers a whole range of histories. A saw 'used' by a hobbyist that maybe has 10-20 hours of run time a year is one thing, a saw from a commercial shop that runs it 1-2,000 hrs/year is going to have a much higher wear factor. Personally the only table saw that I would buy from a commercial shop is a mid-level + euro-slider and there is no way I have the room nor power distribution for that level of equipment.

[Greg Portland]

Hello, new to the site and looking to get back into woodworking now that I am finally getting settled down and get to have my own shop for the first time. I will be needing to get a tablesaw and know that I want a good cabinet saw as I will be making furniture. I am very much a "buy what you really need the first time and then forget about it" kind of person and don't like working with cruddy tools. What I have in mind is something along the lines of a 3-5 hp 10" cabinet saw with a GOOD fence system.IMO, buy used. I was in your same shoes 10 years ago, had the same philosophy and now am finding that I use my table saw less and less. Our methods of work change as does the available room in our shop. I've been strongly considering selling my table saw and using my large bandsaw & (good) chopsaw for cutting + Festool TS55 for sheetgoods. I use handtools for final fitting of everything. Again, this is from a hobby perspective...

[Mike Henderson]

And there are plenty of tools in our shops that can hurt us just the same. Common sense and safe practices will always be viable alternatives.
Yes, there are. But on the table saw, we have access to safety features that are not available on most other tools. I've read so many stories of people who worked on a table saw for 30 or 40 years and then cut a finger off. They're called accidents for a reason. Even when people use common sense and safe practices, accidents happen. And on the table saw those accidents can be life changing.

For a one time payment, I can get significant protection - that if I make a mistake, I won't pay for it for the rest of my life.

If the rest of my tools had similar safety features available, I'd buy tools with those features.

Mike

[johnny means]

I bought my Sawstop ICS BSN a few years ago. Cost me somewhere north of 4K. I'm not recommending that you buy one. But , I got to say, I have never wished I had bought something else, it is always a pleasure to use, and I doubt I ever will regret the decision. In fact, the day may come when I give myself a real pat on the back for buying it. I doubt that I think about the price more than twice a year. I don't miss the money. My point is with long term investments like this, I believe one should get what they really want for as little as possible, but not make price a deciding factor. Of course, we should be reasonable. If your on a fixed income of $1500 a month, a $6000 machine may be a little ridiculous.

It sounds to me like you have the option to get any cabinet saw you want. So go for it and don't look back.

BTW, I highly recommend a Sawstop:D

[scott spencer]

Thanks for the advice. I was already leaning towards getting used over new, this is what I will try to do as long as I can find something decent within a suitable time frame. ... I have to do some traveling over the next month and will scour the listings during that time. If I find something I will jump on it, else I will probably go ahead and look at new saws and be done with it.

Your approach sounds reasonable to me. If a great deal a nice used saw comes along, buy it. If not, there's no shame in buying a new saw.

[Jim O'Dell]

Four years ago, I decided I wanted a table saw. I watched Ebay and Craigs List and the newspaper for a used one. The only one I saw advertised during that year that was appealing was a Platinum Unisaw. But the guy wanted 1500 bucks for it, and didn't want to come down. I lost interest in it. Don't know if he got the money he wanted for it or not. And this is in a big market, Dallas/Fort Worth.
Three years ago, I set out to save for a new one. I decided if I was going to spend that much money, it had to have a riving knife. I knew I couldn't afford a SawStop, or the Canadian made General, (saw the PM 2000 at a woodworking show but was not impressed...don't know why) but knew I wanted a cabinet saw (since that MiniMax slider was out of the question money wise :rolleyes:) . I watched sales, I pinched pennies, and I ended up with just the right amount of money to get the Grizzly G0691 right after Christmas 2 years ago. This saw is built on the same trunnion design that the older style Uni had, with modifications for a riving knife. So I knew it was a tried and true basic design. Also, the old style 1023 used it and had great reviews. I love it! Two years old now, and it has developed some scratches in the once pristine top. Ticked me off when I did it, but it doesn't keep it from doing it's job.
I would have bought used and been very happy with the saw, had I found one that was in the right price range for used. I hope you have better luck than I did. If at the end of the time that only you can decide you are willing to wait you haven't found what you want, give Grizzly another look. I helped a fellow Creeker set up his new 1023RL. It is very nice. I still would go for the 691 for ME, but both are quality saws. Jim.

[Gary Muto]

I voted new. If I was buying today, I would require the saw to have a riving knife. The newer saws have better guards too that are more likely to be left on the machine. If I found a good used saw with a riving knife and guard with dust collection, I would consider that as well.

FYI, my current saw has a splitter and I upgraded the guard to a SharkGuard.

[Ronald Blue]

I am not opposed to used but realistically you can look and look and still come up empty. As Jim mentioned it can be frustrating. It seems all the deals posted in the classifieds here are always far away whether a fellow creeker or something on CL. New is probably the best option unless he doesn't care how long he waits.

[John TenEyck]

This would be an easy choice for me. The only new saw I would buy would be a Sawstop. That's the only one with a technology shift that justifies the price of a new saw, IMHO. In all other cases, I would buy a used saw. FWIW, I love my 1950 Unisaw with a VegaPro fence. It is such a smooth running machine and a true pleasure to use. And I find it quite humorous to see others posting about the necessity of having a riving knife, while in every picture I see of people's saws there is never a guard on them. If that sounds like how you work, then there's really only one choice of what to buy.

John

[Gary Muto]

"snip" ... And I find it quite humorous to see others posting about the necessity of having a riving knife, while in every picture I see of people's saws there is never a guard on them. If that sounds like how you work, then there's really only one choice of what to buy.

John

That's exactly why I like a riving knife. Even if I don't use the guard the knife is there. you never have to think about it unless you are dadoing. I have the next best thing which is a Shark Guard that is easily removable and comes with 3 easily changed splitters. I totally agree that a Sawstop would be high on my list for a cabinet saw. Then I start thinking about Euro Sliders.

[Paul McGaha]

I voted used. I think I should add that I live in a suburb of Washington DC, and our local craigslist routinely has really nice used cabinet saws listed for sale at fair prices. Really easy to get a nice used woodworking tool.

I appreciate Joe Jensen's post #17. On this used saw I'd have an overarm blade guard like the Biesmeyer for both the safety of it and the dust collection from the top of the saw.

If a new saw, I'd guess I'd do a Powermatic PM-2000 or maybe a slider from Hammer.

PHM

[Matt Meiser]

This would be an easy choice for me. The only new saw I would buy would be a Sawstop. That's the only one with a technology shift that justifies the price of a new saw, IMHO. In all other cases, I would buy a used saw.

Pretty much how I feel, BUT, if I could only spend in the $1500 range and was afraid of a rehab project, I'd buy a Grizzly G0690 based on positive reviews and previous good experiences with Grizzly myself. Most of the other new saws are from companies that show signs of trouble, or are so close in price to the Sawstop that it would be tough to justify.

I've got a really nice Unisaw I resto-modded this time last year which replaced an earlier vintage Unisaw that I felt was underpowered (it had the old repulsion-induction motor that's only about 1-1/2HP.) At the time I really wanted a Sawstop and after some quality time last summer helping a friend fix a neutered Sawstop (long tale of Craigslist woe) and seeing the guts of the machine and their customer service I'm even more resolved that, someday, hopefully sooner than later, I'll do it. Its close to $4K for the PCS with the options and extras that I want though after tax. I hate the politics of the company's owner but I've come to realize that if I didn't do business with companies who's politics I don't like, I probably would be pretty limited.

A Unisaw isn't a terribly complicated machine. Mine had lived at a Marina and other than some rust at the bottom and some patina on the top it hadn't really lived a very hard life. I paid $250 and promptly sold the original 110V motor and fence for about $150. Then I put a new Leeson 3HP motor in, bought a lightly used Unifence, painted, replaced bearings and belts and had a virtually new saw for well under $1K. I moved the Shark Guard that I had on my previous saw over. I shouldn't have a very hard time getting what I have into this one back out if/when I go to a Sawstop.

[glenn bradley]

I clicked "Buy New" but, this is not a question others can answer for you. If you are not interested in the newer features aimed at safety and don't mind certifying for yourself that the machine is in proper working order you can save a bundle buying used. Unlike some other replies, I place a high value on a riving knife. SawStop is a great idea but, for western saws, the return to the RK is a good thing.

I make furniture and don't deal with much in the way of sheetgoods. Small or intricate cuts offer all sorts of chances for things to go south behind the blade and a riving knife minimizes this. Perfect? No, but way better than just a splitter. BTW, I don't have a RK but, my next saw will ;-).

If you want a riving knife, a guard that you might actually use or "flesh sensing technology", new will be a logical choice. As for modern conveniences, most of these can be shop made or after-market acquired; decent fence, decent miter gauge, modern belts and bearings, etc. As usual, JMHO.

[Paul McGaha]

I clicked "Buy New" but, this is not a question others can answer for you. If you are not interested in the newer features aimed at safety and don't mind certifying for yourself that the machine is in proper working order you can save a bundle buying used. Unlike some other replies, I place a high value on a riving knife. SawStop is a great idea but, for western saws, the return to the RK is a good thing.

I make furniture and don't deal with much in the way of sheetgoods. Small or intricate cuts offer all sorts of chances for things to go south behind the blade and a riving knife minimizes this. Perfect? No, but way better than just a splitter. BTW, I don't have a RK but, my next saw will ;-).

If you want a riving knife, a guard that you might actually use or "flesh sensing technology", new will be a logical choice. As for modern conveniences, most of these can be shop made or after-market acquired; decent fence, decent miter gauge, modern belts and bearings, etc. As usual, JMHO.

Glenn,

What do you think your next saw will be?

PHM

[Gary Muto]

I clicked "Buy New" but, this is not a question others can answer for you. If you are not interested in the newer features aimed at safety and don't mind certifying for yourself that the machine is in proper working order you can save a bundle buying used. Unlike some other replies, I place a high value on a riving knife. SawStop is a great idea but, for western saws, the return to the RK is a good thing.

I make furniture and don't deal with much in the way of sheetgoods. Small or intricate cuts offer all sorts of chances for things to go south behind the blade and a riving knife minimizes this. Perfect? No, but way better than just a splitter. BTW, I don't have a RK but, my next saw will ;-).

If you want a riving knife, a guard that you might actually use or "flesh sensing technology", new will be a logical choice. As for modern conveniences, most of these can be shop made or after-market acquired; decent fence, decent miter gauge, modern belts and bearings, etc. As usual, JMHO.

Glenn said what I was trying to say... only better. My next saw will have a riving knife too. Maybe a SS maybe a slider. ;) it's probably going to be while though.

[Pat Barry]

"Why buy new when slightly used will do, except when the deals are this great!"
Dick Enrico

[Phillip Gregory]

I ended up getting a new saw due to the absolute dearth of reasonable used equipment within a reasonable driving distance. There were a total of three tablesaws within 100 miles in eBay/CL/regional classifieds that weren't cheap benchtop or contractor saws. One was a nice 3 hp Jet Xacta Saw that the owner never returned any messages on. The other two were European sliders, a smaller but very worn-looking Robland and a giant 10' table SCM, both 3 ph/50 Hz machines with 30 mm arbors, of course. A local equipment/woodworking shop just started to carry Shop Fox and General International equipment to replace the Deltas they had given up trying to sell. They also sell Jet, Saw Stop, and Powermatic but those were a bit out of my price range. I ended up getting the Shop Fox equivalent to the Grizzly G0691 (W1820) since they had it for roughly what I would have paid Grizzly to ship a G0691 to my door, plus not having to deal with the whole shipping part that a lot of you guys have lamented about. I figured the extra table size for a marginal price over the G0690/W1819 would be an asset. I pulled around to the truck dock, the shop's forklift carefully set a pristine box bolted to a pallet into my truck bed and that was that. I did strap my boxes in the truck after reading a cautionary tale here about a flying saw.

The first impression of the saw is that there is a lot of iron in it. It is very heavy and required me to remove the table and motor from the cabinet before I could use the appliance dolly and ramps to move it. The cabinet + trunnion assembly probably still weighed over 200 pounds even with the table off and the motor out. Fortunately the manual is good and the saw was pretty simple to disassemble, reassemble, and get aligned. They even provided all of the metric tools necessary to assemble the saw. They were in the last box I opened along with the saw guard (the last part to get installed), so of course I had to dig out my metric sockets and hex keys and finished getting the saw assembled before I found them. A few hours with a square, a ruler, those metric tools, and a WD-40 soaked rag and it was ready to go. I did take some advice from you guys here and put a coat of paste wax on the cast tables. It made my shop smell like vanilla but really does help things move along nicely and hopefully will keep the tables from rusting. I made a few cuts on scrap wood including some rips and dadoes just to make sure everything works as it should. It sure does work nicely. I didn't have a nickel to do the nickel test but it ran very smooth, much smoother than the contractor and bench saws I had used before.

253433

Here's a picture my wife took of the saw and apparently of my back as well. I was in the process of swapping the riving knife out for the guard after finishing cutting a dado in a piece of scrap wood after having swapped the 40T blade out for an 80T Freud crosscut blade (very nice blade by the way.) That's why the blade is all the way up without the guard on and why I am bent over in case you were wondering.

[Gordon Eyre]

That is a nice looking saw and should give you years is service. My advice is take normal precautions but don't be afraid of your saw. Healthy respect is much better.

[Eric DeSilva]

I think about a new saw on and off. I bought used to start with--a late model Delta Unisaw for $700 with a 50" Bies fence and a bunch of other accessories seemed too good to pass up, and I could probably sell it today for what I paid for it. If I did buy new, I'd probably look at the Sawstop, but I would have a real hard time spending $3K on one of those when the Hammer K3 is $3K as well. Moving to either a slider or flesh sensing technology strikes me as increasing the safety margin. But that is a big investment.

Matt, I know you just bought a Sawstop--did you look at the Hammers? I haven't researched extensively, but I'm curious about your decision process.

[Matt Meiser]

I didn't even look and really know nothing about them. My decision was purely based on the safety factor. I no longer use my TS for processing panels and I'm finding that my Kapex makes a fine crosscutter so the slider wouldn't really provide any advantage and I still don't see a safety argument for ripping operations on a small slider after reading the recent thread.