Which Router Fence when mounted in TS Outfeed Table?

[Danny Thompson]

What fence are you using for your router mounted in your TS outfeed table?

I've noticed several posts which discuss the pros and cons of mounting a router in a TS outfeed table. I, like several others, am unable to use my TS extension wing, and have a sturdy 4x4 outfeed table that is perfectly placed in my shop for the purpose. My setup is very close to the one Joe Jensen (below) posted in an earlier thread(#40 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?129364-Please-share-pics-of-your-tablesaw-outfeed-tables&p=1308169#post1308169)), except my drawers are on the right and my available bay is on the left (away from the TS).

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I noticed Joe doesn't have slots for a router fence. (Joe, please comment if you are out there.) Does anyone else have a similar setup? What fence solution do/would you use? I've noticed many of the popular ones require proprietary tracks mounted to the side of the router table, or a positioner which spans the depth of the table; neither would work well in this application, right?

Thoughts?

[Scott T Smith]

Danny, although my router is mounted in my side table I think that the way that the fence is mounted may work well for you.

I purchased a JessEm Mast-R-Fence II that included a pair of brackets intended to mount to the side of your router table. These dual-slot brackets house a nut for the fence hold down bolts in one slot, and the second slot houses a measuring tape. I used a hacksaw to remove the portion of the bracket that was designed for side mounting, which left me with a pair of tracks with stepped bottoms (see photo below). The shiny part is where I sawed off the side mounting bracket.

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Next I routed a two step groove in my table that would allow the dual T-slot brackets to sit in and be flush with the surface. I drilled and countersunk some holes through the bottom of the brackets, and used countersunk bolts to hold them in place. It only takes 30 seconds or so to remove the fence from the table by unscrewing it from the nuts that are trapped in the t-slot brackets.

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In order to ensure that the table has adequate strength (the grooves that were routed for the track penetrated most of the way through the original surface), a 3/4" baltic birch plywood piece was laminated onto the underside of the stock table.

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It works like a champ and the fence can be quickly removed by simply unscrewing the hold down studs on each end. I routed a similar grove for some t-track for the miter guage.

[keith micinski]

Here is what I did with a side mount table and should still work for you. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?146997-Ideas-for-fence-side-table-router-extension&highlight=

[Danny Thompson]

Nice setup, Scott! Thanks for the construction tips.

Do the miter grooves for your Mast-R-Fence give you any problems? Some other posts have raised a complaint about the workpiece tripping on similar grooves cut in the work surface along the front side of the fence. Is your miter track flush or slightly recessed?

I noticed you went with a miter track and guage combo rather than the Mast-R-Slide. Do you have any advice on this front?

[Danny Thompson]

Same goes for yours, Keith!

How is your LS positioner connected to the table? Is it easily removed?

Also, I assume both of you stand at the end of the extension when you work. How satisfied are you with your reach to the bit? Both look deeper than many prefab tables on the market. What reach would you say is optimal?

[Scott T Smith]

Nice setup, Scott! Thanks for the construction tips.

Do the miter grooves for your Mast-R-Fence give you any problems? Some other posts have raised a complaint about the workpiece tripping on similar grooves cut in the work surface along the front side of the fence. Is your miter track flush or slightly recessed?

I noticed you went with a miter track and guage combo rather than the Mast-R-Slide. Do you have any advice on this front?

Danny, my track is a couple of thousands below the top of the table. Re the Mast-R-Slide, I use an Incra 5000 system on my tablesaw and I've been very pleased with it. Thus I opted for the Incra miter guage for the router table. I must say that the Mast-R-Slide looks pretty nice!

[keith micinski]

I drilled four holes in my side table and installed t nuts in them so that I can just grab the fence and screw it down real quick. I have been meaning to get allen nuts that are the same size as the allens on the incra that way I could use the incra wrench and it would be even quicker. I have just been to lazy to do it. I was originally going to rout a slot in my table and get an aluminum track for it but after doing a little research I was glad I didn't. I built a sled to do my coping or anything else I might need a mitre gauge for and this has to advantages. the biggest one being since I remove the fence and install it all of the time even though I try and pretty much put it back in the same spot every time I don't have to worry about it being parallel with the slot. This makes installing the fence as easy as it can possibly be. I also didn't have to rout a slot and buy a track to go in the table top. I guess another added bonus is that coping ends of long lengths is much easier with a sled and clamp downs then it would be with just a mitre gauge.