Teach me of shapes, O Masters of Round Art.

[Brian Kent]

This is a 10" x 4" roughed bowl. The blank (cherry, I think) was sent to me earlier this year by an extremely generous Creeker when I first bought my lathe.

The current shape is what is left when all of the flat pieces are gone. This is a very precious piece of wood to me and my largest turning so far, so I seek your advice. Any and all of you, even if you would send me different directions.

What shape should I attempt? What advice would you give.

Teach me, O Masters of Round Art!

[Roger Chandler]

Hummmm........."Masters of Round Art".........well, that certainly leaves me out of the picture! :rolleyes:

[Brian Kent]

Practitioners also invited :)

[Paul Williams]

I would suggest "round."

In all seriousness it will have to be round in one direction, and it appears to have a circular cross section plus a little bit extra on the top or bottom.I would think smoothing out the main section to be more circular. Them it would depend on how the interior of the rest is shaped and how much wood you have to work with. Addthe non-expert disclaimer.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Brian - looks like you have a real good start on a calabash style bowl - like this one: Calabash (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/album.php?albumid=8&attachmentid=171727) Only problem with turning this style is undercutting the rim. You can use a scraper as long as you have good access, a new burr and take light cuts. Good luck with whatever style you decide on!

[Curt Fuller]

Brian, I'm certainly no master and only just barely a practitioner. But I will say that shape is about as hard to nail down as anything I can think of. Some like big round ones, some like tall skinny ones, some short, some with a big bottom, some with a big top. It's really a question that only the person with the tool in their hand can answer. One thing I have noticed though is that when you look around at all the beautiful shapes in nature, it's rare to see perfect symmetry, things are seldom divided down the middle either vertically or horizontally, almost never a straight line, and diversity almost always draws more attention than uniformity.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Brian,
Find your nearest art store and buy yourself some french curves, a drafting triangle and some tracing paper. Draw a base line near the bottom of a sheet and a perpendicular center line. Draw another perpendicular line that represents almost the width of your blank and another line for the height of your blank. Now start fooling around with profiles on one side of the bowl or the other. Mark out your tenon or recess or waste space for faceplate screws. When you have a profile you like fold the sheet on the center line and trace the other side. Don't skip that step. When you have a profile you like make a template for the one sided profile. I use counter top laminate scraps. Just trace on your design and bandsaw out the negative image. File or sand the shape to leave a flowing line with no bumps. Try to turn your bowl to match your drawing. This technique is not only a good design exercise but will also hone your turning skills, especially your ability to form a fair curve. Pencil lead is cheap and you doesn't leave sawdust.
I still design most of my bowls this way. I save the templates and use them many times if the shape proves a winner.
faust

[Roger Chandler]

I think Steve has given you a great form for what you have already started........the undercut rim is not that difficult if you have a scraper and a fresh burr on it off the grinder..........looking forward to how you do this one..........I would make take it to a shallow recess, but have a bit of a rim where the recess is so as to give it an edge to sit on.

[philip labre]

I would recommend Richard Raffin's book, The Art of Turned Bowls. Great book on shapes and styles for bowls.

[David E Keller]

I'd suggest that you turn what you like... Not trying to be evasive. Some random, candid thoughts follow...

The calabash style bowl is a favorite of mine, and it's nicely suited to the dimension of the blank you have there... Steve's example is a beauty. They generally have a fully rounded bottom with no flats or foot, so they have a pleasant rock and roll to them when touched. Curt's suggestion for avoiding symmetry appeals to my tastes... I use the rule of thirds as a rough guide for shapes(ie. widest point about 1/3 down from the top), but it's only a guide. Spend the time that it takes to get a smooth and pleasing curve with no flats or breaks, and try to forget about how big your finished piece will be relative to the size the blank is initially. If the shape is good, everyone will appreciate it... If you managed to get the largest possible container from the piece of wood, you may be the only one who appreciates that. The Raffan book referenced is a good read and full of photos of nice looking forms. After you nail the form, spend the extra time it takes to get a good finish... Sanding scratches and tool marks will stick out like a pimple on the prom queen. The old saying 'perfect practice makes perfect... Practice alone just makes permanent' is applicable to turning, I think.

Perhaps most importantly, have fun and turn a whole bunch of bowls!

[Brian Kent]

I'm having some more fun with this. Without any final decisions, I am undercutting the rim and will leave the rim a little thick. I'll decide later on whether to leave a foot on it or round off to the calabash style. I really am learning a lot from your advice, everybody. Thank you vey much for your time and experience and artistic ideas.

I still have room for lots of shaping since the walls are about 3/4" thick for now.

[Brian Kent]

It looks like I'm going for a Calabash on a pedestal. Before I start sanding, is 3/8" an OK thickness for this kind of bowl? The wood is dry.

[Roger Chandler]

3/8" is a bit thick, but Brian since you are just getting into turning bowls, that is pretty good. If I were you, when I got done with the inside, I would reverse it with a jam chuck like the other one you finished and take off the part where you call a pedestal and have a true calabash style........

That being said, you could leave the shape as is and have a hybrid.......nothing wrong with that. Your work is really beginning to look good......congratulations!

[Brian Kent]

Roger (or others), what thickness should I go for? I can easily keep on going. I am looking for what works and looks best, not for bragging rights.

[Jim Burr]

Although my medical license says "Practioner"...this is above my pay grade. Maybe someday I'll be a turner!

[Dennis Ford]

I think that 3/8" thick will be fine for this size bowl. I sometimes turn things pretty thin but find that only wood-turners appreciate those; other folks usually like a bit of heft to a bowl.

[Brian Kent]

Although my medical license says "Practioner"...this is above my pay grade. Maybe someday I'll be a turner!

Go for it, Jim. With self-diagnosis through the internet, everybody thinks they can "practice" medicine too.

[Thomas Canfield]

They say that turning thin is to impress other turners and often the thicker walls are more desirable when selling. A word of caution about going back and trying to go thinner after turning to 3/8" is that there can be some flex in the extremities and that going thin is best done from the start in stages leaving some thicker material for support as you go to the bottom. For me, 1/8" would be thin on a 10" bowl and 1/4" more standard. You might also reduce the wall some doing the final sanding and that should be taken into allowance. You can check out some pottery work and see how the thickness varies and increases usually with diameter.

[Brian Kent]

I guess my only concern is if thicker walls are more prone to splitting, but I am guessing that is less of a concern with dry wood.

[Brian Kent]

Here it is with 2nd coat of Maloof finish (Poly / Oil). It ended up at about 1/4" thick with a thicker base and rim.

[Brian Kent]

I invite critique of this piece. Where should I balance a curve, reduce weight?

I have been following the grain and letting that determine the shape. I sanded a little just to show the grain, but I am really still on the shaping step.

[Roger Chandler]

Here it is with 2nd coat of Maloof finish (Poly / Oil). It ended up at about 1/4" thick with a thicker base and rim.

That turned out nice, Brian........nice job!

[Roger Chandler]

I invite critique of this piece. Where should I balance a curve, reduce weight?

I have been following the grain and letting that determine the shape. I sanded a little just to show the grain, but I am really still on the shaping step.

First off........what are you making here? Is this a pedestal for the other piece or a vase, or...........??? A taller bowl with a pedestal base? You have a nice piece going here, but critiquing in order to give a pointer or two would depend on what you are trying to make..........

[Brian Kent]

I am trying to make a turned thingie. It started out as a bowl, then started to become a goblet, then I liked the swirl of the grain with a more gradual curve to the stem, so who knows?

[Roger Chandler]

I am trying to make a turned thingie. It started out as a bowl, then started to become a goblet, then I liked the swirl of the grain with a more gradual curve to the stem, so who knows?

Okay.......you are making curlees! :D Not much we can do to help you with your plan so far.......just enjoy yourself Brian!

[Brian Kent]

The curlies are now turning into a goblet.