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John Miliunas
04-27-2005, 7:12 PM
Anybody out there use this stuff? At the price of finishes, oils, etc..., I'm starting to think this product may be worth it. Most recently, I've started using Arm-R-Seal products and, although I really like the finish, the stuff started skimming over while there was still probably 3/4 of the can left! It's progressively gotten worse as I work my way down. I've only got about 1/5th or so of a can left now, much of it attributed to the fact that I've pitched an 1/8" skin every time I open it!:( I put a coat on a frame I made a couple days ago and today, it's thoroughly skimmed over already! If anyone can recommend this stuff, I might just pick some up. Either that or some of those collapsable photo chemical bottles might be the trick.:) :cool:

Jim DeLaney
04-27-2005, 7:53 PM
Anybody out there use this stuff? At the price of finishes, oils, etc..., I'm starting to think this product may be worth it. Most recently, I've started using Arm-R-Seal products and, although I really like the finish, the stuff started skimming over while there was still probably 3/4 of the can left! It's progressively gotten worse as I work my way down. I've only got about 1/5th or so of a can left now, much of it attributed to the fact that I've pitched an 1/8" skin every time I open it!:( I put a coat on a frame I made a couple days ago and today, it's thoroughly skimmed over already! If anyone can recommend this stuff, I might just pick some up. Either that or some of those collapsable photo chemical bottles might be the trick.:) :cool:

I've used it, and it seemed to work. Fairly expensive, though...

What I've been doing lately is using my (obviously unlit) propane torch. I cover the can, and then insert the torch head under the lid and open the valve to let some propane into the can. Propane, being heavier than the air in the can, displaces it (just like Bloxygen). This seems to work just as well, and is much cheaper in the long run.

John Miliunas
04-27-2005, 8:11 PM
I've used it, and it seemed to work. Fairly expensive, though...

What I've been doing lately is using my (obviously unlit) propane torch. I cover the can, and then insert the torch head under the lid and open the valve to let some propane into the can. Propane, being heavier than the air in the can, displaces it (just like Bloxygen). This seems to work just as well, and is much cheaper in the long run.

Jim, you're a genius!!!! :) Wow! That really makes sense and I just happen to have a propane torch! Need to keep it unlit, huh?:D Yeah...Guess it might get too exciting otherwise!:eek: :D Great idea and I'll be trying it here right shortly! Many thanks! Hey, you should submit that to one of the WW mags as a tip and receive some award winning prize! I'm serious.:) :cool:

Tom Pritchard
04-28-2005, 5:44 AM
I've used it, and it seemed to work. Fairly expensive, though...

What I've been doing lately is using my (obviously unlit) propane torch. I cover the can, and then insert the torch head under the lid and open the valve to let some propane into the can. Propane, being heavier than the air in the can, displaces it (just like Bloxygen). This seems to work just as well, and is much cheaper in the long run.


Jim, I agree with John, this is a great idea! I've always shyed away from the bloxygen due to it's high cost. Your solution makes perfect sense. Great idea, and thanks for sharing it!

Greg Heppeard
04-28-2005, 8:03 AM
Another thing that might help is to make sure the lid of the can is on tight and store the finish upside down. When I was in high school wood shop, that is one of two tricks we learned. The other is the small nail thru the lowest part of the seal on the can to let the finish drain back into the can and not collect in the lip. Five or six holes around the lip works great and doesn't interfere with the seal when you replace the lid. When replacing the lid on the can, try not to deform the lid or the can by using too much force, if it's deformed, you won't get a good seal.

Jeff Sudmeier
04-28-2005, 8:54 AM
Jim, that is a wonderful idea! I will be remembering that one from now on!

Jerry Clark
04-28-2005, 9:03 AM
Another way is to use a small amount of A/C freon. These are available in one pound cans at most autoparts stores.

Tom Hurlebaus
04-28-2005, 10:44 AM
Jim, I agree you are a genius and you should summit that idea to some WW magazine. I bought a can of Bloxygen, after reading some review, and from what I can tell it works, but it was expensive.

Thanks for the $ saving alternative . Tom

Alan Mikkelsen
04-28-2005, 11:23 AM
My experience with Bloxygen is similar. It works, but I had to use more than the directions indicated and it was expensive. I now use 'computer air', which is much cheaper and has a better trigger system, or propane.

Rob Bourgeois
04-28-2005, 11:28 AM
Another way is to use a small amount of A/C freon. These are available in one pound cans at most autoparts stores.
This is bad idea. Not only is it expensive but it is also harmful to the environment. Whether you believe that or not is a whole other discussion, but the reason freon formulations has been changed over the years is to make it less harmful to teh ozone layer. I know its just "a little" but add up all the woodworkers and a little becomes a problem.

The techs that work on car A/C systems go through great lengths to not let any freon escape and we should at least try to do the same. Besides the product we work with( wood) is a natural product...you have to a little bit concerned about the environment.... right??? :cool:

Hal Flynt
04-28-2005, 12:01 PM
Now you tell me about propane :eek:

I bought some Bloxygen, because I had 3 2/3rds cans of Poly Skin over in about 6 mos. The can feels empty, but has about 70 2 sec. applications and that works out to approximately a quarter a treatment.

Another use for Bloxygen is keeping wine fresh after opening. :) Propane might not work here.