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Tim Sproul
04-27-2005, 6:01 PM
I'm making a desk/table that will likely be used for small amounts of writing....wondering if I need to go further than shellac. The wood is quite soft - alder.

I've got the top shellaced to a good build and was thinking of Behlen's Rock Hard table top finish....or should I just stick with a tried and true custom piece of glass? The desk would likely only see folks' John Hancocks.

Tom Pritchard
04-28-2005, 5:48 AM
What I can share with you is that shellac is no good as a writing surface finish. It is too soft, and you can see writing marks in it.

Shellac is actually quite hard...and brittle. Which means that if the wood underneath is soft and you press down, it might seem that you're marking the shellac, but more than likely, you are cracking it.

Per really knows his stuff here and the "rock hard" product is pretty tough stuff. And if you don't like it to be shiny, you can rub it out to a softer sheen... Interestingly enough, my wife's cherry desk only has T&T oil/wax and after 6 years it only has very minor marking. But who writes in longhand anymore? ;)

Jim DeLaney
04-28-2005, 9:08 AM
I'm making a desk/table that will likely be used for small amounts of writing....wondering if I need to go further than shellac. The wood is quite soft - alder...


Tim,
The problem isn't going to be with the finish so much as with the wood. Alder is pretty soft, and will dent easily - regardless of what finish you put on it. Rock Hard is a good finish, and will add magnitudes of protection, but even so, the soft substrate of the alder will probably still dent under it, especially if the 'John Hancock' is made using a cheap ballpoint pen, which usually requires pressing pretty hard to get it to write.

If you want the tabletop to remain intact, I fear you'll need to use the glass.

On the other hand, a few marks and indentations will add a lot of 'character' to the table...

Per Swenson
05-14-2005, 8:37 PM
Behlens rock hard will be fine.
This is the only finish we use on the tops of our bars.
Where people exchange phone numbers on beer soaked napkins,
just before they sign the reciept for their credit card bill.
I would suggest at least 4 coats though.
Here is a link to the whole process.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=17615&highlight=shameless+festool
I hope this helps.
Per

Tim Sproul
05-15-2005, 11:12 AM
Per,

Thanks for the feedback. Since you've got a bunch of 'em.....the Rotex or the 150/3 if you only wanted one? Mainly for finishing. I *try* to employ cutting tools for final surface prep rather than abrasives.

Per Swenson
05-15-2005, 12:35 PM
Rotex 150, but this comes with a caveat.
Once you get a hold of one of these sanders,
you will understand why it is nearly impossible
to not buy more.
Why the Rotex? It simply does it all, and when it comes
to polishing it can't be beat. The 150-3 on the other hand is the
go to sander I could not do with out for general sanding.
It is a jewel and can be used all day.
I hope this helps.
Per.

Tim Sproul
05-16-2005, 3:17 PM
No. NO. NOOOOO!!

You're supposed to tell me to save my money and just get a 150/3. :)


Yeah, I got the Festool bug about 5 months ago.......DC, Trion and DS sander. Guess I'll be adding a brace of sanders to that!