Powermatic 14" bandsaw wheel alignment problem

[Mark Ketelsen]

The upper wheel on my bandsaw is offset from the lower wheel by slightly over 1/4". I have adjusted the tracking so that the blade is centered on the upper wheel. But it is off-center on the lower wheel. When I put a long straight-edge across the upper wheel, the lower wheel is about 1/4" away from the straight-edge. The axes of the two wheels are pretty close to parallel when the blade is properly tensioned. I.e. the wheels are parallel but not coplanar.

Is this a common problem? Is there a good solution? I've used the saw this way for a long time and it works OK, but I have to believe it would cut a little smoother if the blade was centered on both wheels, and 1/4" seems like a lot of error.

(I was going to include a couple photos, but I get strange behavior from "manage attachments" when using an iPad. Is this a known issue?)

Thanks.

[Howard Acheson]

The only relevant issue is how does it cut? Non-planer wheels is only a problem if your saw is not cutting correctly. If it's cutting correctly, you cause problems trying to get the wheels co-planer.

[glenn bradley]

I agree that if the saw is running smoothly and cutting well, I would just continue as you are. There are folks who feel that coplaner wheels are overrated. I do not share this view but, I have seen the improvement that well adjusted saws provided for me. I do agree that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. If it seems to be performing below par, your manual should have a section on adjusting the wheels to a plane.

[Todd Davidson]

FWIW - My Delta 14" has a washer like shim behind the top wheel (can't remember how thick it is)....

[Jerry Thompson]

Look up Alex Snodgrass on You Tube. That should get you running in no time.

[Mike Tekin]

If it works, don't mess with it- coplaner isn't as vital as people think- give Jet or Powermatic a call and they will tell you your saw wasn't purposely built to be coplaner and they will tell you to leave it alone just as this you tube video, if I'm not mistaken does.


Look up Alex Snodgrass on You Tube. That should get you running in no time.

[Myk Rian]

Co-planar is only good with no blade on it.
Once it's tensioned and tracked, nothing is co-planar.
1/4" out is the most I would allow.

[Mark Ketelsen]

Thanks for the Snograss reference. Happily, I found that he sets up his saw EXACTLY the same way I always have and he doesn't worry about co-planer wheels.

[Rich Riddle]

Out of curiosity, what model of Powermatic do you own? Is it the older models 141/143 or the newer mustard color one?

[Gus Dundon]

Don't worry too much about the coplanar issue. I've read that the wheels would no longer be coplanar for the reason of the different tensions on the wheels that would result.

[Mark Ketelsen]

It's the newer one, PWBS-14. I've had it for 8 or 9 years. I use the hell out of it - almost daily. I always do my rough ripping on it. Frequently, I freehand rip to a pencil mark aligned with the grain for frame parts. I do a lot of resawing for veneer. I do joinery such as tenons on long pieces. The only blade I use is a carbide-tipped 1/2" 3 tpi.

[Curtis Myers]

I have the same 14" PM saw. I read a post some time ago about removing the riser pin to get the saw wheels aligned. I did this and months latter called PM tech support about another matter and discussed the bandsaw co-planer issue. The tech support guy said the saw was designed this way and advised replacing the pin. Never had an issue in the the way the saw cut either way. I replaced the pin, the saw wheels do not align and I do not have an issue cutting straight or curved. No issue at all.

All the best
curt