Grizzly G0513X1F band saw won't power up

[Jim Laumann]

All

I have had this for about 10 months. It's wired from the factory to run 220V. It was running yesterday, but will not power on tonight (a little last minute Christmas project for wifelet).

I have checked the following.

Breaker is ok, power is at the outlet.

The male end of the power cord is good.

Panic button is out. Have cycled it (in and out) - no effect.

"Ignition" key is on. Have cycled the key (off to on) no effect.

Have checked the junction box on the saw, where the cord wires are connected to the saw wiring. Power present on both hot wires.

Took the cover (white) off a box labeled "DOL Starter". I don't see any busted wires/connections, but did see a red button/slide switch that looks like it might be a reset button. It is out.

Is this a reset like I think it is?

Thanks

Jim

[Steve Juhasz]

Remove start capacitor from any similar HP rated motor you have, your table saw will suffice. Plug that start capacitor instead of start capacitor on band saw. Let me know what happens. BTW, the start cap will have Microfarad rating in the range of 200-400, and voltage rating of 120 or 240. The similar run capacitor will have much lower microfarad rating, something like 20-30. Also, the start capacitor is non-polarized, and has two identical screw terminals, whereas the run capacitor is polarized and tends to be hardwired at the capacitor end.

If you start and stop this saw frequently, you are overworking this component, and most likely it is what has died. If you bought it from grizz new, it is still under warranty and they will replace the start cap.

[Rick Moyer]

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0513x2f_m.pdf
May not be much help to you, but this is from the manual.
Edit: pg 58 for troubleshooting, pgs. 8-... for schematics

[Gus Dundon]

There might be something wrong with the motor. Why is the link posted above not working to me? I download my manual for my band saw on bandsawmanuals.com

[Jeff Andresen]

I recently had the same problem. My brand new saw would not start. My saw has a footbrake and the foot switch was clogged with saw dust preventing startup. You might want to contact Grizzly. I replaced all three control buttons, then found the real problem.

[Fred Belknap]

I recently had the same problem. My brand new saw would not start. My saw has a footbrake and the foot switch was clogged with saw dust preventing startup. You might want to contact Grizzly. I replaced all three control buttons, then found the real problem.

I had that to happen to mine also. I forgot to open the bottom blast gate.

[John Coloccia]

After checking for dust, and things like that, you could simply unplug it and start by testing with a multimeter to at least make sure that there's nothing obvious wrong. Let's start simple. Hit the ON button. Do you hear anything go "click"? If not, the relay in the starter is not working for whatever reason. Look at the starter. See the thingy with the the arrow that can be turned? It's probably pointed at "10" now. That's your overload protection, and on there you'll find the reset button. If it's popped out, push it back in and try again. If that fixes it, now you have to scratch your head and figure out WHY it popped in the first place.

Be very careful. There's line voltage running around all over there. Unplug it if you have to and be safe.

Not the reset? Look in the Grizzly manual, and you will see all of the various connections and where they go. It should be very easy to trace it through and figure out exactly what component is messed up. If you can't, or don't have a multimeter, you almost certainly have a friend that can come by and help you figure this out. There's only a handful of things that can be wrong. It COULD conceivably be the relay itself, but that would be pretty rare.

[Pierre Laliberte]

This also happens on my saw and the culprit is typically the foot switch, usually works fine if I simply depress the foot pedal once more.

[Dave Lehnert]

Reading with interest as this saw is on my short list.
Are we talking about the Grizzly G0513X2F not G0513X1F as listed above?
Is this saw a true foot brake or a foot switch/ motor brake.
So other are saying they have the same problem/ same model?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Dave,

Potentially, any bandsaw with a footswitch regardless of manufacturer could experience a problem like this as saw dust could get into the microswitch used by the foot pedal and render the switch inoperative. The odds of this happening could be increased if one operated it for periods of time without dust collection.

I don't know if your question about a true footswich is related to the G0513X2F...if it is, I looked at the parts manual for the G0513X2F and the schematic in the owners manual for it. THe G0513X2F is a true foot brake and switch bandsaw according to the parts manual and the electrical diagram.

[Jim Laumann]

All

The saw is working now. I had mis-typed the model # when I originally posted - the saw is a X2F.

I was away for several days - so I didn't see these latest posts - called Grizzly Tech Supt this morning.

They had me check the screws for the prongs of my power cord - were they tight? That was simple - each one took about 1/4 turn. Next they had me check voltages - I had 226-228V coming in to the switch box - so that was good. Nothing (0V) on the output side - going to the motor.

Then they had me fiddle w/ the foot brake. It was all the way up - but I pressed it down a couple times, heard the switch click. They then had me hit the power, and it powered up.

The tech I was talking to (Bill) said that the brake switch's often stick, especially when the saws are new.

Thanks to all who responded.

Jim

[Jeff Andresen]

Saw dust in the foot pedal switch seems to be a common problem. In retrospect, since I have yet to use the pedal, I would have gotten a saw without one.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Jeff,

I have a MM-16 and I am glad I have foot-switch and brake.

I use mine regularly and find having an occasional problem with the switch to be a minor inconvenience for a major convenience.