Hand plane newbie

[Clark Harbaugh]

I'm starting to incorporate more and more hand tool work in my woodworking, however I am still at a bit of a loss when it comes to planes. Without being redundant from what I would guess is hundreds of previous posts, can anyone suggest a couple of good books on the subject? I am primarily looking for knowledge around when to use what type of plane (i.e. low angle jack vs normal angle jack, etc.), setup suggestions (grinding angle of the iron; most seem to be happy with 25o with 35o secondary), etc. I would also be interested in reading more on building my own planes, as it seems this could save some coin as well as give me a reason to spend more time in the shop (really don't need one...).

I currently have a cheap Stanley block plane bought from the borg several years ago and a #4 Groz that was a gift. From some of the previous posts I have seen, I would think my next couple of planes should be a #5 or #6 jack plane, and shoulder plane, and then possibly something longer like a #7 or #8. I read often about people who can use a plane to get as good of a finish as sanding, and I would love to get to that point. Seems safer on the lungs, in addition to just the joy of working the wood by hand.

I appreciate any input. Thanks!

[Mark Dorman]

Welcome to the slippery slope. David Fink has a good book on making and mastering wooden planes. http://www.davidfinck.com/book.htm
Size of plane depends on project size. I'm building a clock now with nothing over 12" no need for anything bigger than #5.
Next project will have some 48" glue ups and while you can do it with a #5 an #8 is better. I would get #5 next after all they don't call them a jack for nothing. Have you read the sticky notes at the top of the forum?

[Jim Koepke]

I'm starting to incorporate more and more hand tool work in my woodworking, however I am still at a bit of a loss when it comes to planes. Without being redundant from what I would guess is hundreds of previous posts, can anyone suggest a couple of good books on the subject? I am primarily looking for knowledge around when to use what type of plane (i.e. low angle jack vs normal angle jack, etc.), setup suggestions (grinding angle of the iron; most seem to be happy with 25o with 35o secondary), etc. I would also be interested in reading more on building my own planes, as it seems this could save some coin as well as give me a reason to spend more time in the shop (really don't need one...).

I currently have a cheap Stanley block plane bought from the borg several years ago and a #4 Groz that was a gift. From some of the previous posts I have seen, I would think my next couple of planes should be a #5 or #6 jack plane, and shoulder plane, and then possibly something longer like a #7 or #8. I read often about people who can use a plane to get as good of a finish as sanding, and I would love to get to that point. Seems safer on the lungs, in addition to just the joy of working the wood by hand.

I appreciate any input. Thanks!

Clark,

Welcome to the cave side of the Creek.

One good book many like is Classic Hand Tools by Garret Hack.

There is also a great trove of information right here on SMC in the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs section:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?103805-Neanderthal-wisdom-FAQs

One of my posts has a lot of links that may be of interest:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?104945-Plane-information

There are also many other posts about looking for old planes and how to tune them for good results.

One of your comments made me chuckle a touch:


I read often about people who can use a plane to get as good of a finish as sanding, and I would love to get to that point.

Most folks who have used hand planes will tell you that the planed surface is much better than you can get with even fine sandpaper.

If Lie-Nielsen or any other woodworking event comes to your area you would be cheating yourself by not attending.

The first thing that comes to my mind when a person asks about what planes they should get is to find out what kind of work they do.

A shoulder plane is a nice tool for some applications, but it is one that isn't absolutely essential for most work. If you make a few mortise and tenon joint, a chisel will work well for trimming and fitting. If you make a lot of M & T joints, then it might be very helpful.

If you make a lot of boxes or drawers, a plow plane may be more useful. A rabbet (rebate) plane is useful for cabinets and other projects.

Many people like the low angle jack for just about everything. My use of a low angle jack is pretty much limited to shooting end grain. Recent discussion here on the setting of chip breakers cleared up something that has caused me to wonder for some time. In my experience the surface left by my bevel up standard angle planes with a chip breaker leaves a slightly better surface than my low angle bevel up jack plane.

The information that would help determine what planes would be the best next additions to you shop is:

Do you work with any rough lumber? I work with some off the saw and find a 5-1/4 is a good small jack for cleaning up the surface. On bigger pieces the steps go up progressively to the #5, 5-1/2 or the #6 for large work. If you work with longer stock, then a #7 or 8 may be something to add to your selection. In the past it was my thought that the size of the person using the plane had a lot to do with the size of the plane being used. Turns out some folks at half my size like the larger planes. For a big guy, it turns out my #3 gets a lot of use even thought there are currently three #4s that all perform very well at hand in the shop.

This is why some of the tool events are of such a value. You can use the planes to see how they perform in your hands.

To paraphrase Edward Murrow, "Anyone who isn't totally confused just doesn't understand the situation."

jtk

[Clark Harbaugh]

Jim, to answer your questions - yes, I do often work with rough lumber. Most of my projects are large furniture pieces (see my gallery (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/album.php?u=53112)), and there does tend to be a lot of M & T joints.

I appreciate the suggestions!

[steven c newman]

Just a pile of planes, awaiting their turn down in the shop...248852 Couple of block planes, a scrub plane, a #4, a #5, and that big guy is a #6. Just my basic set, for now.

[Jim Koepke]

yes, I do often work with rough lumber. Most of my projects are large furniture pieces (see my gallery), and there does tend to be a lot of M & T joints.

Some very nice work.

A shoulder plan may be a useful plane for your shop. Some of your work might also benefit from some moulding planes or other specialty planes.

One suggestion might be for you to visit Patrick Leach's site:

http://www.supertool.com/

The Blood & Gore section is where the information on Stanley planes resides. He gives a pretty good overview on planes. Some times his opinions on some planes are different than mine. He doesn't like some planes that other folks find very useful. He is a tool dealer also. It is interesting to sign up for his monthly tools for sale email.

jtk

[Bob Warfield]

Clark you have some really nice pieces in your gallery. I'm impressed.
Merry Christmas
Bob

[pat fowler]

Clark, very nice work,you have made some very interesting items. I especially like the candle holders and the stack box lamp is very nice. Pat.