What's the cheapest way to set a jointer knives?

[ken masoumi]

Hello all,I just want say hello as a new member and also have a quick question about my Ridgid jointer.
I know the best way to set up the knives is to use a dial indicator or batter still to use a ONEWAY multi gauge but I don't own neither ,so far I find the old method of using a straightedge and measuring how far forward it moves (when turning the cutterhead) to be the easiest and least time consuming/frustrating method.
I'm just wondering if this method is more accurate than using magnets,I own a Ridgid JP06101 jointer and it seems to me that using magnets is better for spring loaded knives rather than jackscrews.
Please forgive me if this question has been asked before,I did do a search but was overwhelmed with so many different opposing views.
Thank you for your inputs.
Ken.

[Rick Lizek]

I've setting up and repairing machines for over 30 years and the dial indicator is the fastest most accurate way by far. You can get a decent indicator for less from www.use-enco.com and get a 1/2" button tip http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=325-1376&PMPXNO=5802331&PARTPG=INLMK32 and simply mount it to a block of wood. No need to buy a Oneway. It's not going to be any more accurate. I can set a 4 knife 20" head in a leisurely 20 minutes within .0005" with that simple set up.

[Mark Wooden]

I have a Magna Set. I used it once on a Delta jointer I have and put it back in the box. I use a piece of 1" x 3" x 12 " hardwood, and set the knives so they move it 1/8" when rotated. Just like you. Sometimes, simple is best. I have all the other stuff- dial indicators, parallel blocks, jointer/planer guage, mag bases- and do use it all when doing initial setups and all, but the simple way works easily, gives me good results.

I'm not familiar with your jointer, but isn't there a knife setting jig that indexes off the head for that? The only machines I remember setting knives on that had springs under them had one.

[ian maybury]

Hi Ken. My personal view (having spent a lot of time with a dial gauge recently) is that the 'carry forward' method is highly accurate for setting knife heights too - especially if you use something like a bit of box section aluminium extrusion, well finished wood, plastic or the like that has a nice smooth and accurately flat surface - and go for a short carry forward of maybe 2 or 3mm.

I don't know the Rigid machine, but the above is very straightforward to achieve if your cutter block has jacking screws that enable the easing up of each knife individually.

I've not used a magnetic setting tool, but suspect it's really intended for use on the set ups where the knives have to be held up in position while you do up up the locking screws because there are no jacking screws or springs. If it turns out that a magnetic gauge would be useful you could possibly make a DIY version fairly easily anyway by gluing some magnets into a piece of plywood.

The Robland machine i last had had springs under the knives so that when the screws were loosened the knives tended to rise. It was relatively straightforward to set the knives on that machine by weighting down a piece of plate glass on the outfeed table, and having made sure that the cutter block was rotated so that the blade was at top dead centre just nipping up the securing screws before properly tightening them after removing the glass. The check the setting is correct using the carry forward method.

Whether you use the dial gauge or the carry forward you should have a fair idea when you have whatever method working right - the knife height reading will repeat pretty much exactly. I seem to find that the carry forward repeats consistently to within say the width of a pencil line. You may need to run some trials to figure exactly how much carry forward you need for the machine to cut right, but once all the knives are all set at the same height and parallel to the outfeed table it's possible (on most machines) to tune the height by raising and lowering the table on its adjustment. It's easier to start with the table a bit high so that the piece drags a bit on it, then gradually lower the table until it's just feeding smoothly. If all is well with the table flatness and alignments it shouldn't be far off jointing straight at that too.

It can it seems get more complicated on some machines if (as may happen on some) the knives tend to move as you tighten the securing screws - it seems (i haven't had it happen) that you can end up having to second guess the movement or make sure that you glass or whatever is held down so that it can't be pushed up. That's probably going to be a pain no matter which method you use...

ian

[Myk Rian]

Straight edge, by moving it 1/8" when setting the knives.
I tried a dial indicator many times.

[ken masoumi]

Thank you all.
It looks like the "carry forward" method that I'm used to, has also worked best for most of you ,it is simple and effective although having a dial indicator with a magnetic base could be used after the initial set up to verify the accuracy .
Thank you again and Merry Christmas to all.

[glenn bradley]

Knifed machines and I parted ways awhile back. The quickest, most reliable way I found when setting them was a piece of glass with rare earth magnets spot-glued to the back. Slide the glass/magnets out over the knives using the outfeed as your reference. Make sure the full length of the knife is drawn up against the glass and tighten them up.

[Charlie Barnes]

Hi Ken,

I use a method I think that was described by Per Swenson on here a long time ago. First determine TDC (top dead center) of the cutter head. I did this by using a steel rule and the "carry forward" method. For example, if the rule was carried forward 1/8", TDC would be half of that distance or about 1/16" from the starting point. Use a clamp on the drive belt or similar means to lock the cutter head in position at TDC for the knife. I then transferred that position to a piece of tape I put on the fence for reference. Remove the knife and insert the new one. The real trick is to take a 1/4" thick piece of glass about 12" long and the width of your jointer and glue rare earth magnets to one side across one end. Place the glass on the out feed table with the magnets above the knife. Make sure the glass is flat on your out feed table. The magnets will keep the knife pulled to the bottom of the glass which is at the same level as your out feed table. Keep the glass pressed down and gently tighten the jack screws for your knife. Index the next knife to the TDC mark and repeat. I've had great success with this method. The total cost for the glass and magnets was less than $15 if I remember correctly. Good luck.

Charlie

[Ron Kellison]

Welder's magnets work just about as good as anything else out there. I bought a pair of 6" magnets for $8 in Ottawa and I'm sure you can find them locally, regardless of where you live. They hold the knife at exactly the same level as the outfield table and if tightening the screws tends to move the blade all you have to do is hold it down with your hand while tightening.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog/product/view/id/97/category/434/

Best regards,

Ron

[John Piwaron]

I doubt it gets any cheaper than what I do. I have a Delta DJ-20. When it's time to sharpen, I take all 3 knives out, sharpen, and return them 1 by 1. I set the height solely by rocking the head back and forth and feel with the steel rule when the knife just barely nicks it. At a couple of places along it's length. Repeat twice. Easy. Boards once again get cut quickly with a resulting smooth surface.

[Jim Matthews]

I doubt it gets any cheaper than what I do. I have a Delta DJ-20. When it's time to sharpen, I take all 3 knives out, sharpen, and return them 1 by 1. I set the height solely by rocking the head back and forth and feel with the steel rule when the knife just barely nicks it. At a couple of places along it's length. Repeat twice. Easy. Boards once again get cut quickly with a resulting smooth surface.

I went to a basic power tool course at NBSS in Boston. This is how they did it, too. Verification of the blade height was with "carry forward".
When the blades were too high, they were lightly persuaded down with a sacrificial wood block.

There was no concentration on much beyond a basic, clean cut and even blade height.
Most of the serious flattening was done on a planer, or by hand.

You can make yourself crazy with this, if you're obsessive.

[John Piwaron]

I went to a basic power tool course at NBSS in Boston. This is how they did it, too. Verification of the blade height was with "carry forward".
When the blades were too high, they were lightly persuaded down with a sacrificial wood block.

There was no concentration on much beyond a basic, clean cut and even blade height.
Most of the serious flattening was done on a planer, or by hand.

You can make yourself crazy with this, if you're obsessive.

Crazy! Check! :) got that part down pat.

[Curt Harms]

Hi Ken. My personal view (having spent a lot of time with a dial gauge recently) is that the 'carry forward' method is highly accurate for setting knife heights too - especially if you use something like a bit of box section aluminium extrusion, well finished wood, plastic or the like that has a nice smooth and accurately flat surface - and go for a short carry forward of maybe 2 or 3mm.
<snip>
ian

Jet jointer/planer combos include an box shaped aluminum extrusion about 6" long with a saw blade kerf cut 'crossways' in it. Nobody knew what it was for ...... unless they read the knife setting directions in the manual ;). The extrusion should be set with the front of the saw kerf on the edge of the outfeed table. Adjust the knife height using the jack screws. When the knife travel moved the extrusion to the back of the saw kerf, about 1/8", the knife height was correct and parallel to the outfeed table. Do the same thing on each end of all 3 knives and done.

[Jeff Duncan]

Cheapest....that's easy the stick method, (or "carry forward" I guess?), is the cheapest since you don't have to spend anything! I've used it since I bought my first 6" jointer to my current 16" and it always works quickly and easily. Everyone has their favorite method, but there's no argument that the cheapest is going to be the one that doesn't cost anything;)

good luck,
JeffD

[Sam Stephens]

Knifed machines and I parted ways awhile back. The quickest, most reliable way I found when setting them was a piece of glass with rare earth magnets spot-glued to the back. Slide the glass/magnets out over the knives using the outfeed as your reference. Make sure the full length of the knife is drawn up against the glass and tighten them up.

this is my method as well. I prefer this b/c i know that the knife height is the same across it's length. i do use a dial indicator to find tdc of the cutterhead initially but you can do this with the carry forward method as well.

[Bill White]

Piece of float glass here. Got it for FREEEEEE. Works. All I need.
Bill

[Greg Portland]

Hello all,I just want say hello as a new member and also have a quick question about my Ridgid jointer.
I know the best way to set up the knives is to use a dial indicator or batter still to use a ONEWAY multi gauge but I don't own neither ,so far I find the old method of using a straightedge and measuring how far forward it moves (when turning the cutterhead) to be the easiest and least time consuming/frustrating method.
I'm just wondering if this method is more accurate than using magnets,I own a Ridgid JP06101 jointer and it seems to me that using magnets is better for spring loaded knives rather than jackscrews.
Please forgive me if this question has been asked before,I did do a search but was overwhelmed with so many different opposing views.
Thank you for your inputs.
Ken.
I don't see the need for a dial indicator. You don't care how far out your blades are... just that they are out. A screw through a board (i.e. a rudimentary feeler gauge) is all you need. Your straightedge method is similar and just as accurate.

Edit: This goes for table saw alignment as well...

[ken masoumi]

Well I set it up my jointer knives using a straightedge only,it seems to be accurate enough since I ran a couple of pieces of wood which came out nice and even,not snipes no ripples or waves on the jointed surface.
In the past I have always used the carry forward method to set the knives but doubted it's accuracy since it is such a basic and simple method ,that's why I thought I should ask the more seasoned woodworkers here what method is often used thinking for sure you all will recommend using a dial indicator to perfectly align the knives but to my surprise most of you also believe in keeping it simple.
Using a piece of glass with magnets glued on also is a great alternative.
I sincerely appreciate all your inputs,you all helped me more than you know.
Regards.
Ken.