What cut of shellac do you use?

[Doug Herzberg]

I was mixing some shellac this morning and it occurred to me that a little thinner cut might still seal the wood for sanding but not gum up the sandpaper so quickly. Currently, I'm using blonde flakes and a 1 pound cut (4 oz in a quart of DNA). Since a quart lasts me about a year, which is my understanding of the shelf life, I don't really want to mix up another quart, but I could divide it now and thin half out as a sanding sealer and keep the other half for finishes. What experiences have you had?

[Scott Hackler]

Doug, I don't know if this will help but I don't buy the flake...I buy Bullseye blonde and dilute it 50% DNA 50% SHELLAC. Reasoning was the overwhelming cost of the shellac flakes and that one can (diluted) last me a long time and it's CHEAP! I only use it on wood that will absorb, as a sanding sealer. Pretty runny and it almost flash dries. It will separate in my jar, if left alone overnight and looks 50/50. Not sure what "else" is in the Bullseye can, but it's got to have something besides just DNA. FYI

[Mel Fulks]

In the book SHELLAC:IT'S ORIGIN AND APPLICATION the author recommends 1 and 1/4 pound to 1 and 1/2 pound cuts for many listed uses. He also said it is best mixed from flakes and used within 6 months. It's the most technical book on that subject that I've seen.

[John Coloccia]

Doug, I don't know if this will help but I don't buy the flake...I buy Bullseye blonde and dilute it 50% DNA 50% SHELLAC. Reasoning was the overwhelming cost of the shellac flakes and that one can (diluted) last me a long time and it's CHEAP! I only use it on wood that will absorb, as a sanding sealer. Pretty runny and it almost flash dries. It will separate in my jar, if left alone overnight and looks 50/50. Not sure what "else" is in the Bullseye can, but it's got to have something besides just DNA. FYI

The "what else" is wax. I believe their shellac is a 3lb cut. Their "Sealcoat" product is dewaxed and is a 2lb cut.

Incidentally, if you decant the shellac in that jar, you now have dewaxed shellac.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Me - I use 3/4# - 1# cut for seal coat. I apply it with a padding cloth. Flashes quick enough that by the end of the piece, I can start over in a couple minutes. Couple coats, I'm done.

Why not just one coat with 1-1/2# ?

Well - I start at the bottom left corner, laying it on left-to-right, and bottom-to-top. Then, the 2d coat is top right corner, working right-to-left, top-to-bottom. Whether this is legit or not - in my mind, I am getting an even seal that way..............

[Harry Robinette]

For sanding sealing I've been using a 2# cut of Bulls Eye for 30 years and never a problem. Like you ask this seals the wood and can be sanded easily with out allot of build-up in the paper.
Bulls Eye shellac is all dewaxed except for one that they called waxed shellac and I don't know if it's even made anymore.Mixing is the best you can get but only if you buy good flakes.If I'm using shellac as a finish I only use flakes, cut a small jar to 2# for the first coat then 1# after that.
Oh ya I use B.T.& C. Flakes. It's the best I can afford an it's worked good for me,I get them from Woodcraft. There are better flakes out there.

[John Coloccia]

For sanding sealing I've been using a 2# cut of Bulls Eye for 30 years and never a problem. Like you ask this seals the wood and can be sanded easily with out allot of build-up in the paper.
Bulls Eye shellac is all dewaxed except for one that they called waxed shellac and I don't know if it's even made anymore.Mixing is the best you can get but only if you buy good flakes.If I'm using shellac as a finish I only use flakes, cut a small jar to 2# for the first coat then 1# after that.
Oh ya I use B.T.& C. Flakes. It's the best I can afford an it's worked good for me,I get them from Woodcraft. There are better flakes out there.

Where did you get this from, Harry? Their Sealcoat product says "dewaxed" and it is. Their regular shellac product doesn't say that and every can I've gotten has wax in it that settles out. Has something changed recently?

[Prashun Patel]

Doug, you 1 lb cut is plenty thin. I submit that if you are having gummy problems the issue is stale shellac. Use ms as a lube and you should not have issues. Also, dont sand shellac at high speeds. Remember it does not cure, so heat from high speed sanding can soften it enough to raise gum. Hand sanding shellac is all you should need. If u have drips and sags (which shouldnt occur on such a thin cut) then rub the raised portions down with dna not sandpaper. Hope this helps.

[Nate Davey]

Ditto to what Scott said!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Doug I mix my shellac from flakes. I mix a 1 1/2# to 1 3/4# cut to seal with. I get my shellac and DNA from shellac.net. I only mix what I need or will use in 6 months.

[Doug Herzberg]

Harry, I get my flakes at Woodcraft, but I didn't look at the brand. It was the only one they had. Prashun, yes that helps - I forget things and have melted a lot of finishes when I rush. What is ms? My shellac mix was a year old, which is why I was mixing fresh. I'll see how the new batch works and adjust my estimate of shelf life if that is the issue.

Bernie, I'll look into shellac.net. Thanks. For you premix guys, does Zissner put an expiration date on the Bulleye can or do you start from the first time you open it?

I think I'll also try dissolving a few more ounces of flakes to see how that works. Thanks for the advice.

[Richard Jones]

I use Zinsser Bullseye Seal-Coat and thin it with DNA. 2/3 shellac, 1/3 DNA. Not sure what that works out to math-wise, but it seems to work well. Dries quickly, and I knock it back with either 0000 steel wool or a handful of shavings.

248158

[Prashun Patel]

Zinnser Sealcoat is already thinned enough, IMHO. If you buy Sealcoat from a BORG - or worse a local hardware store - there's a chance it's been sitting around for a long time. I've used a gallon of Sealcoat that had to be a few years old. It worked fine. However, I do notice that when I mix fresh from flakes, it sands marginally better. However, I still maintain that unless you're using shellac as a grain filler, then wetsanding lightly with mineral spirits (ms) is the best way to go.

[Richard Jones]

Prashun,

The Zinsser cans have a date stamp. And I use it as a grain filler and "color setter". Seems the original color stays better for me if I put a seal coat on first. Drawer and box interiors get the "high octane" straight from the can............

[glenn bradley]

1lb cut for light sealing, 2lb cut for sealing and for shop fixtures, 3lb cut for topcoat.

[Jon Nuckles]

Last time I bought Sealcoat, the stamp on the can was coded. I had to call Zinsser and they explained the code so I could check the age before buying. Unfortunately, I don't recall how to decode it now.

By the way, I think Zinsser claims a 3 year shelf life for Sealcoat, and I do think it ages better than what I have mixed myself from flakes.

[Richard Jones]

Jon,

I believe the date is now "in the open" for all to see..............