Finally got to use it!

[Peter Blair]

A few weeks ago I posted a request for suggestions to help me build a "C" style steady.
There was sooo little interest I actually wondered if I should bother making one or just go with what everyone else is doing.
I really wanted something that would allow me to go full length with my laser not being blocked by the rig.
Here are a few shots of the first time I used it and it worked wonderfully. Hardly even knew it was there while I 'lasered' the sides.
It's made from 3/4" solid phenolic that was left over from a job I was once on. I've been hanging on to it for about 8 years knowing that one day I would find the perfect use for it. I purchased the wheels from Lee Valley, they are a little large but will watch for some smaller ones at local garage sales.
Thanks for looking.
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[Peter Fabricius]

Hi Peter;
That is a beautifully made C Steady. I made mine from 3/4" ply many years ago but it is a round one and made originally for my 11" Lathe. I now have a DVR XP 16" Lathe and need a new steady anyway. This time I will make it a "C" model so I too can use the Laser from my articulated Monster hollowing rig.
Thanks for the encouragement. P.S. I had a set of those wheels in my hand at Lee Valley but I thought they were too large so I did not buy them... My old Steady uses Roller Blade Wheels from a thrift store (used boots with 8 good smaller wheels) which have served me well for all these years so why do I need a new set of wheels?.... Just to look pretty!
Thanks for showing us your new Steady.
Peter F.

[Jerry Marcantel]

Pete, that's a good looking steady. I especially like the way you did your "strut?" clamps. Do you know what the durometer is on the wheels? That should be a number followed by an A..... Jerry (In Tucson)

[Peter Blair]

Hey Jerry. They are polyurethane, quite soft unfortunately I hate to admit made in China and I can't find any Durometer. They were apparently originally manufactured for "push scooters".

[Allan Ferguson]

That steady looks great. I need on some day for my 16" lathe.

[Jerry Marcantel]

Pete, what are those white rectangles on the sides of the wheels in the first picture???? It looks like an information block to me.
I have some new wheels that are 2 1/8" od would stright across trade you for yours. Of course, they're made in China too. Mine I feel are too hard, 88A, for my purpose, and I also feel they are too small in od. My purpose will be revealed after the first week in January. It's a new tool for wood turning..... Jerry (in Tucson)

[Roger Chandler]

Very nice C steady! I have a Nicols steady that has the 10 o'clock arm position which is movable for my laser. I have no issues with the laser being able to go full length.......I would think if one was made from plywood, then for the arms, just drill a second set of holes to attach the arm in a secondary position for use with a laser attachment.....pretty simple actually, in case anyone feels like a round one would not work......it will.

Really innovative work here!

[Peter Blair]

Hi Roger. Sounds great but what I didn't want was to have the laser blocked buy the circle. The wheels were an issue of course cause they added to the width of the area where the laser was blocked but I wanted to have a clear shot from top to bottom.

[Peter Blair]

Pete, what are those white rectangles on the sides of the wheels in the first picture???? It looks like an information block to me.
I have some new wheels that are 2 1/8" od would stright across trade you for yours. Of course, they're made in China too. Mine I feel are too hard, 88A, for my purpose, and I also feel they are too small in od. My purpose will be revealed after the first week in January. It's a new tool for wood turning..... Jerry (in Tucson)
Hi Jerry. here is a shot of the 'information' block . . . don't think it will help you much.
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[Greg Just]

Nice job Peter. I acquired some wheels from a pair of roller blades and have never gotten around to making the a steady rest. I just might have to copy your design. Thanks for sharing.

[Thom Sturgill]

the 3/4" phenolic should solve any problems that would have been created by making this out of plywood. Not sure plywood would have been rigid enough.

[Peter Blair]

Agreed Thom. Originally I was planning to use two layers of European 3/4 plywood but having the phenolic laying around worked out really well.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Great looking steady Peter.

[Richard Jones]

Nice and neat, great looking work, glad it's working well.

Thanks for sharing.

[Peter Blair]

Thanks to all who looked and commented.
I have a confession to make that once disclosed just may help others who my undertake this type of project.
Two things:
1. I should have attached the base (which is bolted to the ways) on the headstock side only. This would allow me to position my banjo closer to the hollow form which of course is the optimal position.
2. I should have cut the notches for the wheel slides on the tailstock side of the unit. This would have allowed me to get the wheels closer to the opening where the support is most needed.

Because I don't plan to do any really deep or large forms I don't think these issues will be a problem but would have made the steady work a little better.