Painters Pyramids

[George Bokros]

Anyone use these or anything similar in their finishing process? I am wondering if they wouldn't leave slight imperfections in the finish. My understanding is using them or a similar approach you can apply finish both sides of say a cabinet door in one session.

Thanks

George

[David G Elliott]

I've used painters pyramids a LOT to finish doors and face frames. They work particularly well for frame-and-panel doors because you can place the pyramids so the points touch the inside corners of the frames, where slight imperfections won't be noticed. With lacquer or shellac, the finish dries so quickly that you'll rarely create imperfections at all. With paint you'll sometimes see a small dimple, but as long as it's on the back side it won't matter. Even on a flat door, dimples won't be too objectionable if they're on the back side. For this reason I usually arrange my finishing procedure to paint back sides first and the front sides last.

[John TenEyck]

I use them a lot, too. Much easier to paint something flat than hanging, and the little dimples left by the pyramids are acceptable on most projects, especially compared to the risk of sags and runs on something hanging.

John

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I made some by taking some scrap 1/2" plywood and cutting it into 2" squares on my table saw. Then I drove a short nail through the center of the squares.

They work well and I haven't found any traces in the finish yet.

[Randy Goodhew]

I make mine from scraps of wood and drywall screws - too long and point up.

Blessings.

[glenn bradley]

They leave dimples as do drywall screws or nails through pieces of scrap. Anything that supports a wet filmed surface is going to show. I use them for shop cabinets and "kitchen" cabinet type stuff and have no issue with the marks. Do I use them on a mahogany lowboy for a bedroom set, no. Other tricks are to suspend from nails or screws stuck into edges that will eventually end up covered.

[Jason Roehl]

I never use them. For one, I mostly use quick-drying finishes. Coat one side to completion (the less visible side, if applicable)--this lets you "push" the finishing schedule a bit if you don't have to handle the item. That is, if it's dry to touch in one hour and recoat in four hours, you can often recoat in two hours instead. Then, let the finish dry overnight, then do the "show" side, putting a rag or other soft item underneath the item as you turn it over.