Need a spokeshave

[Joe Cowan]

I am getting ready to tackle the Asian Inspired Hall Table that was recently in Fine Woodworking. The DVD calls for making the templates for the curved legs, using a spokeshave for getting the slight curves on the legs just right. I have never used a spokeshave, but looking at the LN website, they have a curved bottom and a flat bottom available. Any advice appreciated. This template will have both inside and outside curves to true up.

[Chris Griggs]

If you have a block plane (or really any not too big plane) you can make them work on outside curves (though a spokeshave is nicer). For inside curves you really need a spokeshave with a rounded sole, so if you can only buy one you'll probably want the round bottom. That or you could consider the LV low angle spokeshave - it can be set for either. Though if your working tricky grain its not the best choice due to its low angle.

[Joe Cowan]

If you have a block plane (or really any not too big plane) you can make them work on outside curves (though a spokeshave is nicer). For inside curves you really need a spokeshave with a rounded sole, so if you can only buy one you'll probably want the round bottom. That or you could consider the LV low angle spokeshave - it can be set for either. Though if your working tricky grain its not the best choice due to its low angle.

I will be starting off with a template material, which I suppose will be 1/2" MDF or similar. Got to get the template perfect, as that will be the pattern for the leg. Should not be too tough to get the hang of it. Thanks.

[John Coloccia]

I'm having a hard time thinking of a lousier tool to use on MDF than a spoke shave. My recommendation, unless you're trying to make router templates out of MDF, is to take some art paper (poster paper...not sure what it's called...construction paper?), cut out the templates with scissors and/or a knife, and then just use that to pencil it in on the work piece. Then maybe attack the workpiece with bandsaws and spoke shave to waste away the rough stuff...maybe a draw knife if you have it (my tool of choice, actually). Refine with draw knife/spoke shave if you'd like, rasps, files, scrapers and sandpaper.

MDF does not work with edge tools very well at all.

[Chris Griggs]

What John said. Another alternative would just be to make the template out of a not too thick piece of flat hardwood. MDF and edge tools = not fun

[Prashun Patel]

I use a combination of flat spokeshaves, small block planes, and a coarse rasp. If i had to have one, itd be the rasp. Dollar for dollar, its the best at curve smoothing on any grain.

[Archie England]

I've restored a bunch of vintage spokeshaves and bought a LN Boggs, as well. They all work, just a tad differently. The concept of coarse, medium, and fine really applies with my gang. The Boggs is so fine that it won't take much off; the Stanley #51, so coarse that it's not for finesse cuts. I've got a MF cigar shave that's superb at medium fine to fine, and so on. What spokeshaves don't do is cut round, unless you're using the concave ( design. And, you must get and keep the blade really sharp! With that said, check out the less expensive contour shaves that LV carries--flat and round bottom. The old low angle woodies are a delight to use, easy to maintain, and cut all but wild grain well. YMMV

[Stanley Covington]

I own two Stanley double-screw shaves, one made in the US and one made in England, three of the Bogg's shaves, and a couple of Japanese nankin kanna. I like the Bogg's shaves best, although they are relatively expensive. But I must agree with Prashun that, for shaping both concave and convex curved surfaces on a piece as long as a table leg, an Auriou rasp or two would be a more cost-effective investment. Not as suited to travishing seats or working chair spindles as a spokeshave, but the Auriou rasps or Nicholson pattern-maker's rasps will work quicker and give you more control with fewer tearout problems (if you are careful).

Stan

[Joe Cowan]

Well, it looks like MDF is out as a pattern. I have all the rasps etc, after doing a Maloof rocker last winter. I liked how the template (out of 1/2 ply) worked with the rocker pieces using a pattern bit with my router table, and was try to duplicate it with this project. I thought the DVD said mdf and was trying to learn something different.

[Carl Beckett]

+1 on a rasp (sounds like you are set with)

I like templates from the thin 1/4" dark board - masonite? (or beaver board). Not sure what its called. But 1/4" isnt hard to work with and its a pretty hard/durable edge to guide or layout. But at the same time, I wouldnt try shaving this - would recommend cutting close to a line and then sanding (a spindle sander or belt sander). Not very neander like......

For just transferring directly to the wood a manila folder makes an ok template. Then rasp/spokeshave away....

[Prashun Patel]

I didn't read the whole thread properly. I use spokeshaves/planes/rasps on WOOD.

Personally, I think 1/4" MDF templates are the best for long parts like chair and table legs. The reason is that they flex better than solid wood. Also, MDF smooths better than wood - WITH SANDPAPER.

Truth be told, I do use a block plane and spokeshave on curves on mdf, but only as a final pass after the sandpaper to make sure I didn't miss any irregularities. It's more to identify high/low spots than to smooth them (the blades will burnish the surface where irregularities are). For smoothing, use a block and sandpaper. In fact, the mdf cut-off from the bandsaw will be the best block for smoothing.

Rasps are trickier to sharpen, so pls don't use them on mdf. While mdf will dull the blades of the plane and shave, they're easily re-sharpened.

Personally, I wouldn't use 1/2" mdf. The thinner the material, the easier it is to get the curve perfect. The thicker your template, the harder it is to keep the curved face perpendicular to the face. 1/4" is plenty thick for bearings to ride on.

[Joe Cowan]

+1 on a rasp (sounds like you are set with)

I like templates from the thin 1/4" dark board - masonite? (or beaver board). Not sure what its called. But 1/4" isnt hard to work with and its a pretty hard/durable edge to guide or layout. But at the same time, I wouldnt try shaving this - would recommend cutting close to a line and then sanding (a spindle sander or belt sander). Not very neander like......

For just transferring directly to the wood a manila folder makes an ok template. Then rasp/spokeshave away....

I have an oscillating spindle sander (Jet floor model) but find it hard to get a consistent smooth surface as it seems to leave a smooth wavy pattern with it.

[John Coloccia]

I have an oscillating spindle sander (Jet floor model) but find it hard to get a consistent smooth surface as it seems to leave a smooth wavy pattern with it.

It takes a bit of doing to be really smooth on a OSS. I'm not very good at it, actually. The trick, if you can call this a trick, to smoothing out the bumps is to go over the area with a flat file. It will smooth the bumps right out. Inside curves are trickier. I use a combination of sanding block, dowels with stick wrapped around them, scrapers, etc for inside curves.