Question for drum sander users

[Dave Parkis]

I recently acquired a performax 16-32 sander and I'm curious as to how difficult it is to replace the sandpaper on the drum. Also, do you usually stay with one grit? Would it make sense to try to find a deal on a second drum so that I could just swap out the drum when I want to change grit? Thanks!!

[Victor Robinson]

Replacing the sandpaper isn't difficult, but it does take doing it a few times to get the hang of the clip on the motor side of the drum. Definitely learn to do it before you have to change the sandpaper during a project. I don't have any bookmarked, but I've seen more than one video documenting the procedure on YouTube.

I usually keep 120 grit in my sander. The scratches left by anything coarser I find are really tough to remove. With 120grit, the scratches are removed with 80g on the ROS. For me, 120 is a good balance between stock removal and finish, but then again I don't ask my sander to do much, if any, dimensioning. At the most I'm sneaking up on a fit. If I'm looking to finish sand larger panels and want to try to minimize my ROS time, I'll switch to 220. But for me it's 120 95% of the time.

Having a second drum is an interesting idea...but I think switching the drum would be harder than the paper. What you're really wanting is a dual drum sander. :)

[John Coloccia]

It takes me about 5 minutes to change the paper, and that includes cutting the new paper to length and tapering it. Maybe 10 minutes if I'm taking my time. I only use mine to level and thickness, so I keep 80 on mine all the time. I actually us heavy duty Abranet, and it lasts FOREVER compared to regular sandpaper.

Changing the drum is not even an option so don't spend a second thinking about it. Paper changes are trivial.

[Victor Robinson]

It takes me about 5 minutes to change the paper, and that includes cutting the new paper to length and tapering it. Maybe 10 minutes if I'm taking my time. I only use mine to level and thickness, so I keep 80 on mine all the time. I actually us heavy duty Abranet, and it lasts FOREVER compared to regular sandpaper.

Changing the drum is not even an option so don't spend a second thinking about it. Paper changes are trivial.

Ooo tell us about Abranet on a drum sander. How much pricier are the rolls?

[John Coloccia]

Ooo tell us about Abranet on a drum sander. How much pricier are the rolls?

Not sure. They're pricey, but they last FAR longer. Very cost effective, and more importantly they don't cra....er....poop out in the middle of a job. No burning....no clogging. You have to get the heavy duty rolls, but I won't go back to regular sandpaper. In fact, I have the Grizzly velcro kit and I'm going to try that as soon as this strip wears out...but it hasn't worn out yet :)

[Dick Mahany]

It takes me about 3-4 minutes to change paper on a 22-44, but took me about 4 times before I figured it out, The open end side clip is super easy, but the motor side clip took some fiddling with until I got it since it is a little hard to see. Now I don't hesitate to change papers at all. I use 36 rarely for sizing, usually keep 80 on the drum for most purposes, and use 100-120 occasionally. I have a few finer grits, but have never tried them since I've managed to burn up a few 180 grit rolls rather quickly, but attribute that to operator error/technique rather than tool capability.

I got one of those Jet Tough Tools, and finally figured out how to use it and it works well for me.

I'm intrigued by John's Abranet comment and now must try it!

[keith micinski]

I bought a pair of 90 degree bend needle nose pliers to stick the paper down in the clip on the motor side. Why on Earth they put the spring loaded clip on the motor side is one of the biggest mysteries of life.it would be so much easier to change the paper out if the spring loaded clip was on the outside.

[David Kumm]

When you change the paper and engage the clip, make sure it is under tension. I tear off the last 1" or so from the pointed end so when the clip is under tension the end doesn't hang up inside the drum. Turn on the drum and run something through it and then check the wrap and retension if needed. Sometimes the wrap will loosen a little and the edges then overlap- guaranteed burn. Dave

[Robert Chapman]

I bought a pair of 90 degree bend needle nose pliers to stick the paper down in the clip on the motor side. Why on Earth they put the spring loaded clip on the motor side is one of the biggest mysteries of life.it would be so much easier to change the paper out if the spring loaded clip was on the outside.

+1 on this suggestion. Us the bent needle nose pliers to pull the tail of the paper down tight on the motor side while you are holding the clip open with your finger.

[Dave Cav]

I have a Woodmaster and I now usually run 100 - 120 grit as I use it for a sander, not a planer, and as another poster mentioned, scratches from coarser grits are really difficult to remove.

[Rick Potter]

I also have a Woodmaster, and use 100 almost all the time. ROS from there. This works well with the oak I normally use.

Rick Potter

[Scott C. Williams]

120 grit is my primary sandpaper. Installation of paper is not a problem. The problem I have is the tracking of the conveyer sandpaper belt. It tracks to the sander's outboard side and unless re-adjusted will rub the conveyer frame. Not time consuming but frustrating to deal with.

[Cary Falk]

120 grit stays in my drum sander.

[Dave Parkis]

Thanks very much. I guess I'll get some 120. Hopefully, we'll get a link to the 120 grit Abranet:D I don't mind spending more if its going to mean I have to change the paper less often.

[John Coloccia]

Thanks very much. I guess I'll get some 120. Hopefully, we'll get a link to the 120 grit Abranet:D I don't mind spending more if its going to mean I have to change the paper less often.

I don't believe it comes 120G. 40g , 60g and 80g is all I've ever seen.

[Steve Peterson]

Why on Earth they put the spring loaded clip on the motor side is one of the biggest mysteries of life.it would be so much easier to change the paper out if the spring loaded clip was on the outside.

The rotating drum tightens the paper as it rotates. The leading edge clip remains tight and the trailing edge clip is needed to take up the slack that naturally develops. The trailing edge clip needs to be spring loaded.

This doesn't answer the question of why they put the trailing edge on the right side. I wonder if it is possible to flip the drum around and move the awkward clip to the left side. This might require flipping the sandpaper template over and cutting your own paper with the diagonal going the other way (no pre-cut rolls).

On the other hand, loading paper gets easier after doing it about a dozen times.

Steve

[Robert Horky]

Here is what I found on Abranet .. comes in many grits.
http://mirka-online.com/mirka-specialty-abrasives/mirka-abranet-1/mirka-abranet-1.html

[Jim Foster]

Loading the paper on the Performax 22-44 gets easy after a few times. Taking care of the paper and using the "eraser" on it often, and treating the tool like a sander, not a planer help the longevity of the paper. I bought a few big rolls of paper, either 80, 120, or 60 and 80, but all I use now is 80 when I use it. For me the "crazy" double clip for the paper got easy to use, once I took the time to look at what it is trying to do, which is always apply tension to the paper.

[John Coloccia]

Here is what I found on Abranet .. comes in many grits.
http://mirka-online.com/mirka-specialty-abrasives/mirka-abranet-1/mirka-abranet-1.html

I use the "heavy duty" rolls. I don't think I would recommend the standard rolls in the drum sander.

[Rick Potter]

I have a Woodmaster drum sander that takes velcro paper. I just e-mailed the link to find out if the rolls stick to velcro like the discs do. I love the discs on my ROS.
I will report on the answer.

Rick Potter

[John Coloccia]

I have a Woodmaster drum sander that takes velcro paper. I just e-mailed the link to find out if the rolls stick to velcro like the discs do. I love the discs on my ROS.
I will report on the answer.

Rick Potter

Just one more FYI. With velcro, you may need to add a backing pad. I remember reading somewhere that the velcro can poke through the abranet and cause problems. I'm converting my 22-44 to velcro, actually. I'll be interested in seeing if you get the regular stuff to work with no backing pad. That would be ideal. I was going to try the heavy duty stuff with no backing pad as a first step.

[doug faist]

It takes me about 5 minutes to change the paper, and that includes cutting the new paper to length and tapering it. Maybe 10 minutes if I'm taking my time. I only use mine to level and thickness, so I keep 80 on mine all the time. I actually us heavy duty Abranet, and it lasts FOREVER compared to regular sandpaper.

Changing the drum is not even an option so don't spend a second thinking about it. Paper changes are trivial.

Where does one buy Abranet paper.
Doug

[John Coloccia]

I think I just buy mine from the online Mirka store. I haven't bought anymore yet, so I don't remember exactly where I got mine...maybe Beaver...but here's where you CAN get it at any rate :)

http://mirka-online.com/mirka-specialty-abrasives/mirka-abranet-heavy-duty.html

[doug faist]

Yeah, they are expensive, but I think I'll give it try for a roll or two.
Thanks for the info.
Doug

[james bell]

I also keep 120 pn my 22-44 sander. Probably burns up faster than 80, but like the finish.

When I purchased it, I also got a set of all the grits, but then bought a roll of the 120. Very easy to copy the "used" sandpaper, clamps work well to hold them together. Less expensive this way.

I sometimes use the sander over my planer - probably should not, but haven't gotten the last bit of snipe out, so on shorter pieces it is worth it.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Yeah, they are expensive, but I think I'll give it try for a roll or two.
Thanks for the info.
Doug

Please post a review. I'm also interested in the Abranet. I love the small sandpaper.

I'm so cheap, that I found that if you have the Performax (Jet now) paper, it's pretty much waterproof. I've soaked the paper in Simple Green to get pith and glue residue off and the paper comes out pretty clean (if you wire brush the pith out of it) and ready for another run. My sander came with an assortment, and I still have some of it in use. Don't know how waterproof the other brands are. I am wondering if you can wash the Abranet. I wet sand with it, so maybe possible.

[Rick Potter]

John,

No answer yet, but the discs work just fine with the regular velcro pad on my ROS. I took a closer look at my discs and they seem to have something sprayed on the back, sort of like a lite flocking, assumably to work with the velcro.

I sent the e-mail to Beaver. Hope for a reply. If not, I will contact Mirka direct.

Rick Potter

[Chip Lindley]

Don't forget, there is the Velcro hook and loop alternative. Grizzly sells a self-adhesive wrap for their 24" drums. Buy a big roll of felt-backed sanding roll online and it will last you eons! Don't make this any harder than it has to be !

~~Chip~~

[John Coloccia]

Don't forget, there is the Velcro hook and loop alternative. Grizzly sells a self-adhesive wrap for their 24" drums. Buy a big roll of felt-backed sanding roll online and it will last you eons! Don't make this any harder than it has to be !

~~Chip~~

I'm doing that on my next paper change, actually. Have the kit right here. One thing I'm concerned about is that the pressure bars don't have a lot of play in them, and the added thickness may require some modification, especially with thicker HD abranet. Stay tuned :)

[Rick Potter]

My woodmaster takes the velcro, and it has worked well for me. It's just that I love the Abranet discs, and it would be nice if the rolls would work on the drum sander too. I am gonna need some new rolls in the not too distant future.

Rick Potter

[John Coloccia]

Juat to clarify....my comments are about the Jet drum sanders, not Woodmaster or anyone else.

[keith micinski]

The rotating drum tightens the paper as it rotates. The leading edge clip remains tight and the trailing edge clip is needed to take up the slack that naturally develops. The trailing edge clip needs to be spring loaded.

This doesn't answer the question of why they put the trailing edge on the right side. I wonder if it is possible to flip the drum around and move the awkward clip to the left side. This might require flipping the sandpaper template over and cutting your own paper with the diagonal going the other way (no pre-cut rolls).

On the other hand, loading paper gets easier after doing it about a dozen times.

Steve

Putting the clip on the outside would have taken no extra engineering or parts that I can tell. There has to be something I am missing because when they first tested the thing on the prototype and went to put the first role of paper on the drum surely someone would have went, "wow space is kind of tight back here why don't we move that spring loaded clip to the outside so that it is much easier to access" I sometimes stay up late at night wondering, why?

[mreza Salav]

My woodmaster takes the velcro, and it has worked well for me. It's just that I love the Abranet discs, and it would be nice if the rolls would work on the drum sander too. I am gonna need some new rolls in the not too distant future.

Rick Potter

For those of you with a velcro system: isn't it kind of a bit soft underneath the sand paper? Not that I doubt your claim that it works fine. I'm trying to figure out if it is something I should consider upgrading to.

[Bruce Yasitis]

John,

I constantly use one of the 2" x 2" x 12" gum stick cleaners on my drum sander paper. Does the Abranet need or benefit from cleaning? If so, what do you use?

[Dan Forman]

From what I've read so far, it doesn't seem necessary, as the Abranet doesn't load up the way regular paper does.

Dan

[Rick Potter]

Mreza,

It is cushioned a bit by the velcro, and I wondered if it would be ok at first. The Woodmaster replaced a Delta 18" which had clips. Honestly, I have never noticed any problems at all. The only thing I would caution, is to use HD paper, like Klingspor and others handle, because I think it might be possible for lightweight paper to buckle. Of course that can happen on the clip type too, if it is just a bit loose. Don't ask how I know this.

Rick P

[John Coloccia]

Well, I do put a lot of wood through that most wouldn't. Lots of rosewoods and other exotics. I do clean it off with the rubber cleaner if only to keep it from staining the next bit of wood that I send through. I think it does help. It must load up with resins or SOMETHING because it is still an abrasive with little nooks and crannies, but what it doesn't seem to do (or is resistant to at least) is generating tremendous heat and baking on a bunch of junk. It was very common for me to send a bit of wood through and have it suddenly load up and basically stop working, burning wood in the process. That just doesn't seem to happen anymore. As long as I'm reasonable, it just seems to take whatever I throw at it and doesn't misbehave. That was the main reason I switched. I got tired of playing Russian roulette with expensive pieces of wood, both in raw cost and time.

Ideal would be a belt sander. On my long list of things to do is to build a belt sander much like William Cumpiano has in his workshop. If someone designed and made available such a kit, I would dump my drum sander in an instant and purchase it, but the drum sander is probably a better solution for most that are just flushing up doors and things like that.

Personally, I think Abranet (and copy cats) is the future of abrasives. It won't replace sandpaper, but I think it will eventually be the workhorse for abrasive work. I wish they would start making Abranet in common belt sander sizes. I'd be first in line to buy some. The mesh almost seems like it acts like gullets on a table saw, and it gives all the junk a place to go instead of just sitting there and glazing over....or scratching your work.