Advice on pens needed please

[Timothy Mann]

I received all of the parts I ordered from PSI for my first try and making some pens for christmas presents, the mandrel, kits, bushings. But I did not buy a barrel trimmer, I am useing 7mm kits and I do have the proper drill bit. Is there a way to trim the barrel without useing a fancy trimmer?

[Jon Behnke]

You can trim the blanks on a disk sander but you must be careful to make sure they are square with the tube. There are many that have made a jig for the disk sander, in some cases this actually works better than a regular barrel trimmer because there is less chance to blow out the end.

[Jim Burr]

Trimmers aren't fancy...they're almost essential. If you can make a jig to creat a perfect two axis 90* angle to a disc sander...you're in business! An entire set from CSUSA is $30.

[Timothy Mann]

Trimmers aren't fancy...they're almost essential. If you can make a jig to creat a perfect two axis 90* angle to a disc sander...you're in business! An entire set from CSUSA is $30.

I may have to get a set before I start these kits then. I dont have a disk sander in my shop yet, looks like a trip to rockler in portland is called for so I can get it quickly. Thanks for the help here.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Definitely a disk sander or barrel trimmer.

[Marvin Hasenak]

If you have a drill chuck that fits your tailstock you can do it by making a sanding disc with your face plate. First mount a piece of wood, cheap stuff, pine will do, on your face plate. Then round and square the face off. Take a 1/4" rod, at least 3" long and mount it in your drill chuck, stick the drill chuck in the tailstock. Place your blank on the rod and bring the tailstock up to where the blank is about a 1/2 away from your sanding disc. Crank up the lathe to slow speed and slowly slide the blank into the sander. Depending on how much wood you need to remove and how coarse your sandpaper is, this may take a little bit. It is important to keep the blank as square as possible to the the sander.

Or you can do the same thing by making a sanding disc to fit your drill chuck and place the drill chuck in the headstock. This time stick the 1/4" rod through the sanding disc so you have a guide to slide the blank up square to the sander.

It would be better if you had the correct size steel rod, but a 1/4" is close enough if you pay attention to getting it square to the sander.

[Jim Burr]

I may have to get a set before I start these kits then. I dont have a disk sander in my shop yet, looks like a trip to rockler in portland is called for so I can get it quickly. Thanks for the help here.

If you order it from CSUSA Monday, you'll have it Wednesday, just follow their time frames. Lot cheaper than retail B&M prices!!

[Peter Fabricius]

Hi Timothy:
I know we all have our own preferences and I sure do not want to start any arguments about a specific procedure.
I hope you have not bought a barrel trimmer. It is a waste of time and possible putting your nice pen blanks at risk of being torn apart.
The sanding option is the only real solution. I have made hundreds of pens and I have never used a trimmer.
I just saw a real neat and very inexpensive solution. (it was sort of mentioned above, by Marvin). Take a piece of hardwood about 5" long and about 1" diameter. Turn one end down to a Morse Taper #2 size using caliper measurements from a standard MT#2. Next, insert the new wooden MT into your headstock, round the rest of the blank and square the end carefully. Apply a little glue and apply a piece of sandpaper (perhaps 100 grit). Now you have a sanding jig that is easy and inexpensive for use to trim pen blanks down to the brass tubes perfectly square. Insert a steel rod (a transfer punch that fits into the brass tube works well) into a Jacobs Chuck in the tailstock and slide the blank on the steel rod. Come up close to the sandpaper and then bring the pen blank up to the sandpaper until the brass just starts to show all the way around. There you have one end done.
Good luck
Peter F.

[Timothy Mann]

Hi Timothy:
I know we all have our own preferences and I sure do not want to start any arguments about a specific procedure.
I hope you have not bought a barrel trimmer. It is a waste of time and possible putting your nice pen blanks at risk of being torn apart.
The sanding option is the only real solution. I have made hundreds of pens and I have never used a trimmer.
I just saw a real neat and very inexpensive solution. (it was sort of mentioned above, by Marvin). Take a piece of hardwood about 5" long and about 1" diameter. Turn one end down to a Morse Taper #2 size using caliper measurements from a standard MT#2. Next, insert the new wooden MT into your headstock, round the rest of the blank and square the end carefully. Apply a little glue and apply a piece of sandpaper (perhaps 100 grit). Now you have a sanding jig that is easy and inexpensive for use to trim pen blanks down to the brass tubes perfectly square. Insert a steel rod (a transfer punch that fits into the brass tube works well) into a Jacobs Chuck in the tailstock and slide the blank on the steel rod. Come up close to the sandpaper and then bring the pen blank up to the sandpaper until the brass just starts to show all the way around. There you have one end done.
Good luck
Peter F.

I think this sounds like a good fit for me, thank you for the tip, I will let you all know how I do.

[Thom Sturgill]

If you don't like using calipers to turn the MT, tale a piece of plywood and two pieces of 1" square stock about the same length as the MT. Mount one piece along the edge of the plywood and lay the Mt next to it position the other piece tight to the MT and fasten it down. Now you have a full length gauge for sizing the turned MT. Line it with peel and stick sandpaper and it can be used to sand the turning smooth too.

[Lee Koepke]

Well, one thing I have said about those that work with wood (especially turners) .... not only is there great alternatives to performing a specified task, but you are willing to share, in great detail.

I have done quite a few pens, and have lost a few especially nice blanks to the barrell trimmer. This weekend, I will be setting up a sanding pad like described above.

Thanks again for your wonderful ideas!

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Nice tip Peter!

I have also turned hundreds of pens, and every one of them I used a barrel trimmer. Yes, I've blown a few of them up, burned the ends, chipped out the ends, you name it. I think I'll try turning a sander. In fact, I've already done the MT#2 plug for a threading jig, so this will be a fast project. I also think PSA sandpaper will work. I have that too.

This is such an awesome site.....

[Jamie Donaldson]

Its also very easy to make a disc sander with a faceplate and MDF disc. I made one years ago with a platform that mostly stays mounted on my old General lathe, and is used for many other purposes as well. The disc is 9" dia. and 80 grit paper, stuck on with spray adhesive and changed with a heat gun.

[Jim Underwood]

I use a jacobs chuck in the tailstock with the trimmer mounted in it. I don't use the trimmer, I just use it as an arbor to hold the blank. Then I use a morse taper screw chuck with sandpaper screwed on it, and carefully bring the tailstock up until I can float the barrel of the pen up to the sandpaper and carefully sand it square.

I've about given up on the trimmer except when I'm trimming the barrel right after inserting the brass tube. I probably should just square it up with the sander before turning. I've chipped so many CA glue finishes with a trimmer I won't use it anymore.

[Jim Burr]

Not sure why there is so much hate on the barrel trimmer...30 minutes ago I just used it on some Montana soapstone without an issue, over 1500 pens without fail. There are some things it shouldn't be used on, but if properly maintained and sharpened, it's a great tool.

[Jim Underwood]

I don't hate it, Jim, I just don't trust it to trim after a CA glue finish has been put on. After all that work applying, sanding, and polishing, I don't want to mess it up with a barrel trimmer. Two good brands of barrel trimmers, brand spanking newm, flaked the ends off my CA glue finish.

I just sand them now.

[Jim Burr]

After? Why aren't you trimming and then turning and finishing? I must be missing something.

[Timothy Mann]

After? Why aren't you trimming and then turning and finishing? I must be missing something.
I was wondering about this as well. I had the understanding that you trim that blank, and then turn it, is this correct? I have been so busy I have not had time to get out to the shop the past couple of days. I should be able to spend all day wed turning so I am very much looking forward to that. Thanks to all that have posted in this thread!

[James Combs]

I was wondering about this as well. I had the understanding that you trim that blank, and then turn it, is this correct? I have been so busy I have not had time to get out to the shop the past couple of days. I should be able to spend all day wed turning so I am very much looking forward to that. Thanks to all that have posted in this thread!
Same thought I had??? I would not touch my blank with a mill after turning and definitely never after finishing. The blank is still square when I use my mill.

[Paul Williams]

After inserting the tube I rough turn the blank round. Then I mount it in a three jaw chuck of the kind used with a metal lathe, and face it off with a carbide tipped tool. I own a trimmer but never liked using it.

[Dan Hintz]

After? Why aren't you trimming and then turning and finishing? I must be missing something.

I'll third that (fourth?)... barrel trimmer before it goes on the lathe, and when it's time to square up the ends after CA, out comes the parting tool.