Making Router Pattern

[Jerry Bruette]

I'd like to make a router pattern out of some hardboard(aka masonite). Is it okay to cut out the hardboard and double tape it to the plaque I want to pattern and route the hardboard?

I'm concerned about routing the hardboard because I've never done it and don't know if it'll behave and what kind of edge finish I'll get.

Jerry

[carl zietz]

i use hardboard for some cabinet backs, and have never had an issue. The routing comes from cutting the hard board a little large, screwing on the back, then routing a clean edge. The only challenge I could see is down the road the hardboard will be damaged faster than 1/4 inch.

[pat warner]

Masonite? The dust mess of the year.
Can you see your laout lines? Nope
Tape? Not this tech; a temporary fastener is just that.
Good for patterns? Satisfactory.

[Jerry Bruette]

Masonite? The dust mess of the year.
Can you see your laout lines? Nope
Tape? Not this tech; a temporary fastener is just that.
Good for patterns? Satisfactory.

I can live with the dust to make one pattern. Won't have to see layout lines, the original plaque would be the pattern to make the pattern from the masonite.

I'm just concerned with the edge finish and if I'll be fighting the cut.

Jerry

[Mark Wooden]

Depending on how many duplicates you want to make from the one tepmplate, you might want to look into "tempered" Masonite-hard stuff, it'll last longer.
The edge finsh on regular masonite is fine for pattern routing, smooth it a little with 150 grit and spray a coat of laquer or poly on the edge to harden it a little.
You can use two sided tape if you can get it to not shift on your plaque material. Clamps would be better.

[Jim O'Dell]

How many times will you use the template? If often, or at least you'll make a bunch at one time, I'd go for MDF. Still dust city, but the pattern will hold better and has a nice smooth edge. Will make your finished work a lot nicer. If you are only doing one or two, use what ever you have laying around. Jim.

[Jeff Monson]

I dont see an issue with using it for a template. I use 2 sided tape alot for attaching templates to my workpiece. I prefer to use a couple of screws it there is a side that does not show. I usually use 1/4" plywood for templates, but the masonite should work just fine.

[Bob Vavricka]

I use tempered hardboard (masonite) for templates all the time. I have also used a router to make the template just like you are talking about and used double stick tape to hold it. If it is small, I usually put the pieces in a vice and apply more pressure to the tape bond then take it out and route it. I usually rough the hardboard out so it is about 1/8" oversize to cut down on the dust and make it easier to route. The routed edge will be fine for your template.

[Stephen Cherry]

These are very handy for patterns:

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2004113/7911/baltic-birch-plywood-6mm14-x-12-x-12.aspx

[johnny means]

when you say masonite i assume you are talking about 1/8" or 1/4" material. using neutrals this thin can be problematic. One issue is bearing surface. Your router bits are going to have a gap between the bearing and the cutter of roughly 1/8". This means that the bearing needs to ride at least an 1/8 away from the work piece. The second issue would be clearance. If you are using a hand held router with a flush trim bit you will need about 5/8" between the work piece and your bench for the bearing and screw.

[Bill Huber]

I am in the MDF camp, I use 1/2" and some 1/4" for my templates, it is cheap and easy to sand and you can get really nice and smooth edges. Then I use double sided tape to hold them on, the biggest problem is getting the parts apart when you are done cutting.

If I am going to keep the template for awhile I will put a coat of finish on it, just about anything I have left over from a project. This keeps it from getting moisture in it and it will last for a long time.

[Jerry Bruette]

when you say masonite i assume you are talking about 1/8" or 1/4" material. using neutrals this thin can be problematic. One issue is bearing surface. Your router bits are going to have a gap between the bearing and the cutter of roughly 1/8". This means that the bearing needs to ride at least an 1/8 away from the work piece. The second issue would be clearance. If you are using a hand held router with a flush trim bit you will need about 5/8" between the work piece and your bench for the bearing and screw.


I did have the problem you describe and yes I was using a hand held router. It's quite obvious why 1/2 inch patterns would be better. It was a pain to adjust the router so the bearing would ride on the pattern and still be high enough to make a full cut without leaving material in the gap.

I can see why a router table would be nice and possibly safer for the job I was doing. Wish I could afford a router worthy of mounting under the wing of my tablesaw.

Thanks for all the advice.

Jerry