Waterborne Poly For Oak Cabinet Question...

[Derek Arita]

First time using an HVLP. I've been advised to use a waterborne finish instead of the typical lacquer finish on typical oak kitchen cabinets. Which waterborne poly will best match my existing oak cabinets? Again, they are the finished in the typical lacquer finish. Does that lacquer contain a stain?

[Edward Dyas]

If you've been using lacquer, I don't think you would be happy with a waterborne finish. Unless you seal the wood with sealcoat it raises the grain so bad you work yourself to death getting the finish smooth as lacquer. Anyway the waterbased poly is the clear topcoat and you may not be able to match the finish on the old cabinets if the old finish has yellowed. There are lacquer stains but the term lacquer normally refers to a clear coating. You may have better luck to stain the cabinets and use a cab-acrylic lacquer to finish the oak cabinet. It is a probably a better lacquer than the existing cabinets have. More than likely the existing cabinets were done in a nitrocellous lacquer. The nitrocellous lacquer is a good finish but isn't very water resistant. A cab-acrylic lacquer is. If the old finish has yellowed it might be necessary to put a thin coat of orange shellac on the new cabinet to simulate the aged color.

[Derek Arita]

If you've been using lacquer, I don't think you would be happy with a waterborne finish. Unless you seal the wood with sealcoat it raises the grain so bad you work yourself to death getting the finish smooth as lacquer. Anyway the waterbased poly is the clear topcoat and you may not be able to match the finish on the old cabinets if the old finish has yellowed. There are lacquer stains but the term lacquer normally refers to a clear coating. You may have better luck to stain the cabinets and use a cab-acrylic lacquer to finish the oak cabinet. It is a probably a better lacquer than the existing cabinets have. More than likely the existing cabinets were done in a nitrocellous lacquer. The nitrocellous lacquer is a good finish but isn't very water resistant. A cab-acrylic lacquer is. If the old finish has yellowed it might be necessary to put a thin coat of orange shellac on the new cabinet to simulate the aged color.

Thanks. That really helps. I wanted to try the waterborne polly cause I've been paranoid to spray any lacquer. I've been told so many times that spraying lacquer is dangerous due to fire and explosive issues.

[Edward Dyas]

Yes spraying lacquer is dangerous like you've been told but with a little common sense you should be able to work with it safely. Once or twice a year I refinish cabinets in a customers house using lacquer. I use it because I can stain and finish the cabinets in one day without very much work. One thing I have that you wouldn't have is a portable spray booth fan that has a explosion proof motor I set in a open window to exhaust the fumes. You could spray a little less at one time and create a air flow by putting fans in the oposite side of the house blowing in. That way the fan motor isn't exposed to the vapors. I turn off anything in the house that has a open flame or has motors running. I also turn on all the lights I need and not turn them off while I'm working because the spark in a switch has the potential of setting off the vapors.

[John TenEyck]

OMG, don't spray nitrocellulose lacquer indoors w/o a proper spray booth unless you have a death wish. You can use WB poly and match existing lacquered oak cabinets, and avoid the nasty grain raising problem, if you first spray one or two thin coats of Sealcoat shellac. It will give you the warm color of a solvent based lacquer. Scuff sand smooth between coats, then spray your WB poly topcoat. I did these oak veneer corner cabinets to match the existing upper cabinets, 10 years old, and the color match is nearly perfect. I used, and really like, GF's Hi Perf. Poly. Sprays great and very hard and durable.
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John