Another jigsaw question

[David Linahan]

Hi, I'm new to both this forum and using a laser. I'm quite enjoying both at the moment, although the laser causes a few wrinkled brows at times. I've tried searching for an answer to my question before I bore you all with a dumb question,,,but no luck in finding the right answer yet. I have been trying to figure out how to cut jigsaws from 3mm or 6mm MDF without "singe" marks around the edges of the cuts. I have been gluing injet prints onto the MDF using either PVA or Spray adhesive. By messing about with different settings I can get almost reasonable results..but not good enough. I know it can be done...because of the amount of professionally laser cut jigsaws available. So far though...I seem to wind up with lots of precision cut rubbish...http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/smilies/eek.gif
Btw I have an Epilog 50w Zing with the rotary attachment. I have had good results with glass engraving and cutting acrylic...but, alas...I really want to make jigsaws for the Australian market. Any and all help greatly appreciated.

Dave...

[Rich Harman]

A powerful air assist will help a great deal in reducing residue when cutting MDF.

[Mike Null]

Welcome to SMC. Try reducing the PPI and even make two passes at lower power if necessary.

[Joe Pelonio]

Rather than using paper, if you print onto a polyester based adhesive backed plastic film, you can apply transfer tape before cutting and avoid this problem. That's what I use for my puzzles and have no problems whether on MDF, birch ply or acrylic.
I have done them on paper too but applied a thin (1 mil) clear poly film over the paper, and left on the transfer tape before cutting. The only problem is after a lot of use the edges tend to wear, which the printing directly on poly film does not. Such films are very hard to find for the typical inkjet, but are readily available in rolls for large format printers used in the sign shops.

[Martin Boekers]

You may want to explore other methods. Dye Sub is more suited to this if you want photo type images on them.

Companie sell pre-cut board stock that all you need to do is transfer the image to. If you want to cut your
own, Conde & Johnson Plastics sell a sublimatable hard board stock which is .125" thick, it cuts easily and nicely

[Chuck Stone]

Rather than using paper, if you print onto a polyester based adhesive backed plastic film, you can apply transfer tape before cutting and avoid this problem. That's what I use for my puzzles and have no problems whether on MDF, birch ply or acrylic.

I get that film from Papilio catalog #HGW8511GGL that one is for laser, there is a different
one for inkjet.
Makes an excellent mask for chemical etching/milling, too. (if you can register the front and back)

[David Linahan]

Thanks for the help guys...I like the idea of the polyester film. I presume that after cutting I would need to get the wife out into my shed to peel off the masking paper....not too sure about that...she might find things...haha