Scott Davis
11-27-2012, 7:47 PM
I got an old PM 66 that I took apart to clean out inside and get tuned up and squared away. I have not tuned up a table saw before, having not really had one worth doing so previously. I followed some tips from a Youtube video by the Wood Whispererer.
It runs great, I hear no trouble with the bearings. They spin easily and silently. They look OK on inspection. The belts look fine. The saw has very low hours for it's age, it was always a hobbyist saw, and sat for long periods in all likelihood. The saw in 19 years old so I thought to replace them, but I don't think I have the proper tools or experience. Doing so requires removing the pulley and I don't know how to tension that. I don't have a bearing press to get them back in. I figured I would just roll with the ones I have until I note a problem.
A few questions:
1) I followed these tips because I don't have a special gauge to check parallelism and runout. Is this critical? If so, does anyone have a link to one they would suggest?
2) When you go to turn my blade, to check a single tooth front and back, it has a "memory". You can turn it about a quarter turn and it wants to come back. You can turn it a half a turn and it want to go forward a bit. It doesn't turn and then just stop at any point like the saw in the video. I reasoned this must be because it has not been run for 5 years, and now the belts probably have a memory to a certain oval shape. I don't know if this signifies a problem or not. Anyone's thoughts?
3) I the blade lined up using this video's tips till it was just right. I think there may be some run out, as I turn the blade, most teeth just barely touch my ruler the same way, but a few don't touch, indicating to me either the teeth are different, the blade is warped or untrue, or there is run out. I am not sure if this is normal or not, and thought this may be the reason that you check a single tooth front and back rather than different teeth.
I appreciate any help.
Scott
It runs great, I hear no trouble with the bearings. They spin easily and silently. They look OK on inspection. The belts look fine. The saw has very low hours for it's age, it was always a hobbyist saw, and sat for long periods in all likelihood. The saw in 19 years old so I thought to replace them, but I don't think I have the proper tools or experience. Doing so requires removing the pulley and I don't know how to tension that. I don't have a bearing press to get them back in. I figured I would just roll with the ones I have until I note a problem.
A few questions:
1) I followed these tips because I don't have a special gauge to check parallelism and runout. Is this critical? If so, does anyone have a link to one they would suggest?
2) When you go to turn my blade, to check a single tooth front and back, it has a "memory". You can turn it about a quarter turn and it wants to come back. You can turn it a half a turn and it want to go forward a bit. It doesn't turn and then just stop at any point like the saw in the video. I reasoned this must be because it has not been run for 5 years, and now the belts probably have a memory to a certain oval shape. I don't know if this signifies a problem or not. Anyone's thoughts?
3) I the blade lined up using this video's tips till it was just right. I think there may be some run out, as I turn the blade, most teeth just barely touch my ruler the same way, but a few don't touch, indicating to me either the teeth are different, the blade is warped or untrue, or there is run out. I am not sure if this is normal or not, and thought this may be the reason that you check a single tooth front and back rather than different teeth.
I appreciate any help.
Scott