Compound Miters: Sled vs Miter Saw?

[alex grams]

I am working on a project that has a lot of compound miters from crown moulding, and while I did the base moulding under it on the tablesaw, I can't do the same with the saw leaned over at 45 with crown because the blade isnt tall enough. I much prefer the accuracy and control of the tablesaw with a sled, especially when cutting smaller pieces. Is there a plan or method for making a sled for compound miters with the crown laying flat?

I have a decent miter saw, but don't feel it is as safe with smaller cuts, nor do I like the idea of switching it over left and right for different angles/cuts, as I don't have the highest of confidence in the angles being accurate and repeatable.

Thoughts/Suggestions?

Here is a rendering of the model:
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt220/alexgrams/EntertainmentCenter-SideProfile_zpsb1301f6a.jpg

[Jamie Buxton]

Yes, you can make the same compound-angle cuts on a tablesaw as you would on a miter saw. A good miter gauge can do the job, and a sled can too. You can even put a pivotable fence on a sled, so the miter angle is adjustable. However, there many angles in your design. Remember that left and right joints are separate angle, and count them up. The miter saw really have evolved specifically to cut crown molding. Most of the better ones have markings for the usual angles, and some even have detents. So the miter saw is really the better tool for the job.

You say you're running out of capacity on the miter saw.. Are you cutting the molding with it laying flat on the table? If not, look up how to do that. It involves lots of weird miter and bevel angles, but it does work.

[Peter Quinn]

I made a sled for the shaper to handle angles by drilling a hole that represents the pivot point, then using a plunge router on a trammel to swing a 45 degree arc. Turn it over, create a slightly wider recess for a bolt head, fashion a fence. Done. It can handle any angle 0-45, could do more if I wanted to. You could make such a thing for each side. But honestly I'd rather make a sub fence for my SCMS and make the cuts there. My makita has detents for the miter/ bevel angles required to cut crowns on outside 90's laying flat, so I never have to check the charts. I'd bet yours does too if you check.

[Mike Henderson]

It's easy to cut crown flat on a miter saw. You just have to get the angles to set the miter saw at. There's a guy who has a web site - http://www.compoundmiter.com/ - that sells an excel worksheet to get the angles to set your miter saw at. I believe there's some apps for both Android and iPhone that do the same.

Mike

[You can use that same calculation to cut the angles on your table saw. I show (http://www.mikes-woodwork.com/StepStool.htm)how to do that in a tutorial (How to make a step stool) on my web site.]

[Erik Christensen]

I have tried a number of ways to cut crown moulding including coping joints - all were a less than satisfactory method - it is something I do every year or so at most so developing the skills to get consistent results was not going to happen. I then got a festool kapex and that made crown as easy as base moulding. You can reto fit your SCMS to do the same. You need to build a second set of fences for the SCMS that will hold the crown upside down and positioned correctly on both saw base and factory fence. The only other thing you will need is an an angle gauge like what festool packages with their saw - it lets you measure any inside/outside angle and mechanically bisect it - (http://www.festoolusa.com/products/sliding-compound-miter-saws/general-accessories/miterfast-angle-transfer-device-494370.html) - I have seen knockoffs that run about 45$. I can't imagine using a table saw to cut crown moulding - you want the saw in the room where you are installing as I can never measure and cut it right in a single pass - it always involves multiple cuts to sneak up on the perfect fit.

[Peter Quinn]

I have tried a number of ways to cut crown moulding including coping joints - all were a less than satisfactory method - it is something I do every year or so at most so developing the skills to get consistent results was not going to happen. I then got a festool kapex and that made crown as easy as base moulding. You can reto fit your SCMS to do the same. You need to build a second set of fences for the SCMS that will hold the crown upside down and positioned correctly on both saw base and factory fence. The only other thing you will need is an an angle gauge like what festool packages with their saw - it lets you measure any inside/outside angle and mechanically bisect it - (http://www.festoolusa.com/products/sliding-compound-miter-saws/general-accessories/miterfast-angle-transfer-device-494370.html) - I have seen knockoffs that run about 45$. I can't imagine using a table saw to cut crown moulding - you want the saw in the room where you are installing as I can never measure and cut it right in a single pass - it always involves multiple cuts to sneak up on the perfect fit.


He may be using crown on a furniture project or built in, in which case he may be in the room with the work even on a TS. I like that festool angle gauge, in fact I like it better than the kapex it self.

Makita gives you a little booklet with the SCMS that gives the angles for nearly every inside/ outside corner you might encounter. And most saws have some form of detects at the angles required for standard 90's, you may never have noticed them if you haven't cut crown flat. I know I didn't, first time I hit a crown too tall to cut standing up I dragged out the book and though " how am I ever going to find those two angles left and right?". Then the saw just magically stopped there. Wow, they though of everything!

[John TenEyck]

Your crown looks small enough that it can be cut standing up on most miter saws. If so, you only need to set the miter angle, no bevel setting required. You just lean the molding (upside down) against the fence at the same angle it will be installed at and clamp an auxilliary fence across the front of it. That holds the molding in place and now you just cut the bevels. Also, I wouldn't try to cut those little return sections directly, I would cut them long enough so I could hold them safely. Then I'd glue the two pieces together and, after the glue dries, I'd cut/sand the return off flush on the back side. Then I'd mount that assembly back on the saw and make it's miter cut to mate to the next piece. Works in my head.

John

[Matthew Hills]

How do you compensate for corners that are slightly off when cutting compound angles for crown moulding?

When I did our base, I found a lot of corners that were a fraction of a degree off 90. This was enough to leave a gap if I just assumed 90 and cut away with 45's.
(I cut a series of test sections at fractional angles that I could dry fit and find the best match)

Matt

[John TenEyck]

One of these will do it: http://www.festoolusa.com/products/sliding-compound-miter-saws/general-accessories/miterfast-angle-transfer-device-494370.html Two strips of wood will work, too.

John