Cypress slab dining table help

[Chris Daleo]

Hi,

I'm new to this forum and need some help on the construction of my dining table. First off I will be using 2 slabs of cypress 2" thick for the top measuring a total 7'x3'. I will be attaching the 2 slabs by gluing them together (or should i also add some kind of joinery as well) and screwing a 2x6 down the middle on the underside. For the legs I have 2 8x16x27 cypress pieces. This is where I'm not sure of how to attach to the top, I need the legs to be removable so I can move this table into my house.

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[Richard Coers]

A properly jointed edge, with glue alone, will be stronger than the wood. That said, throwing a 18" x 84" slab on a jointer is going to be a challenge for most hobbyists. Also, the 16" width leg boards is not wide enough for a 36" wide table. You are going to need a foot, or something similar to ones used for trestle tables. It's going to be too tippy from side to side. People push down with their hands when they stand up, and the table will not feel solid. You can also add one to the top of the leg boards, and hold the top to them. You will also need to tie the two ends together with two stretcher boards under the top, and can fasten the top to them. The top is going to shrink and expand with the seasons, so either use oversize screw holes between the stretchers/legs and top, or table top fasteners so you don't crack the top when it moves.

[Jamie Buxton]

So you're thinking the base is just those two big columns? I'd arrange them so the 16" dimension runs across the table -- that is, the 3' dimension. I'd run a stretcher between them, so they won't get knocked over if you lean on the end of the table. (Me, I'd attach the stretcher to the columns with through tenons, even though cutting the through the columns will be challening.) At the top of the columns, a simple construction would be to screw a flat plate of plywood on the top, with the plate overhanging the column. Screws up through the edge of the plate hold it to the top. A plywood-free approach would do the same thing, but with pieces of lumber that's maybe 1x3. It just needs to screw down to the column on the top, and overhang enough that you can screw up into the table top.

[Ted Calver]

Hi Chris and welcome to the creek. I'm envious of your big slabs of cypress. That should be a great table when you finish. If you type 'slab tables' into the advanced search function at the top of the page you will find a number of helpful threads on here that might give you some hints on how to attach the top. Also consider downloading the free Sketchup program and use it to help you design your table. The program has a gentle learning curve and there are plenty of instructional videos to get you started. Some of the threads show Sketchup models ....very cool. Good luck and again, welcome!

[Sam Layton]

Chris, welcome to the creek. I am having trouble visualizing the legs being 8x16x27. Are the legs going to be 8" thick? I think the proportion of the legs to the table would be off. I second everything that Richard said. In addition, I think you need a complete base which includes legs, and stretchers. Then, you could take the base into the house, add the top, and screw it to the base. Just allow for movement. Do a search, a lot of tables have been posted in the past.

Good luck, and we like photo's, Sam

[Erik Christensen]

I would joint the 2 slabs by butting them against each other, clamping them down and running a track saw with a good, sharp blade down the joint line. I have done this a few times and been surprised at the quality of the glue line that resulted. I would not use a 2x6 underneath to strengthen the joint - a table top like that is going to be an eye catcher and even a casual inspection would reveal that jarring crude joinery method. I would use a number of loose tenons to help with registration during glue-up and provide the same level of structural strength as your 2x6 but do it invisibly. After glue-up I would use a router sled to flatten the bottom and then after that learning curve is over use the same method to flatten the top. A top that thick & only 7' in length should not need an apron for structural integrity but I agree with others that you should revisit your leg design.

My 2 cents

[Chris Daleo]

Thanks for all the quick replies, everyone gave some great advice. I'm new to woodworking, I basically finally have a place where I was able to build a shop and went in head first. To answer some questions the legs are 8" thick and 16" wide and will be about 27" tall to make the table around 29" tall due to the slabs being about 2" thick. If I have just 2 of the legs would making it a trestle style table be enough?

Please excuse my ignorance but when y'all say screw the top down to the legs how would I exactly do this. Do I just put screws in at an angle from underneath the table thru the legs into the slab?

I don't have any pics yet because I'm still trying to get the idea down but I will post as soon as I do. I am still trying to decide between 2 sawmills near me that have the slabs.

Anyways thanks again for all the help.

[Sam Layton]

Chris,

Good for you jumping right in. No better way to learn than doing. Your top will expand and contract. So when you attach it to the base you will have to allow it to do so. First of all, if you just use the two legs, and no apron, the table should be strong enough to support it. However, I still think the legs only being 16" wide, will not support the table from tipping if someone gets up and leans on the edge.

If you are going to use the 8" x 16" legs, you can install some sort of a foot to give more stability, see diagram. Also, I think you need a stretcher to connect the legs, again for stability.

As far as screwing the legs to the top. If you mill a 3/4" x 4" or so board, and dado it in the top of the leg. Screw the 3/4" x 4" into the leg from the top. The 3/4" x 4" will be wider than your 16" leg. Set the top on your legs and screw the top down. Drill a hole several times larger than the screw you are using in the 3/4" x 4" board. Install the screw in the middle of the hole using a large washer larger than the hole. Secure the screw snug, not tight. You want the top to be able to move.

246473
Hope this helps, if you have any further questions please ask.

Sam

[Chris Daleo]

Chris,
Thanks for that, the diagram is exactly what I needed to see.

The slab that I think I'm going to pick up next week is going to be 1 1/2" thick after it is planed. How deep should the screw go in the cypress, and should I just use a regular wood screw? Thanks again.

[Sam Layton]

Chris,

I would go into the top about 1" or a little more. Just be careful not to go to close to the top side. Regarding the type of screws. I like Spax screws. Spax makes a 1/4" lag with a large diameter flat head. Thats the one I would use in your application. Just make sure you pre drill the hole. Goggle, "Spax screws" to find out where you can purchase them. I purchase them from Orchard hardware.

Sam