Need help flattening Maple workbench

[Steven J Corpstein]

I have a factory purchased laminated maple top on my work bench, that was sanded and sealed with lacquer from the factory. After 3 years it has gotten rather checked because of the lacquer not moving with the wood, never was very flat, so I am going to strip it down, then plane it flat. I was playing around yesterday just setting one of my planes (#164) and can tell I'm going to have a time with tear-out.

The problem is that the laminations are oriented any which way, with the grain going all sorts of directions, including some end grain. I have several LN planes (#4 1/2, #5, #7, #164, and a #62) and am not sure which or how to tackle it. I realize I will have to have blades honed perfectly and the mouth set to tight, but still would like some techniques from you guys. The top is 24" x 60" x 4" thick.

Thanks for the help, I value your opinions.

[Mark Singer]

One very good way is to find a sanding service with a wide drum sander and it will probably only run the minimum whch is usually $25

[Steven J Corpstein]

Mark,
Because of the tear-out that I am seeing just playing around, I'm thinking of abandoning my attempt at doing it the Neanderthal way and caving in to prudence. I'm glad somebody such as yourself agrees. I've lurked here for several years and you always seem to have good advice. Thanks.

[Keith Outten]

Steven,

Where are you located? If you are near the Eastern side of Virginia come on down, I have the perfect solution. It would take less than ten minutes of machining time to flatten your bench top with a CNC router. Accuracy would be within a few thousandths corner to corner.

If you are not in my area I may be able to help you find another ShopBotter in your area that will help.

[Steven J Corpstein]

I wish I were in your area. That is a very great thing to offer and one of the reasons I go to this forum every night. You guys just amaze me with your expertise and willingness to help. I live in Cedar Rapids, Iowa so Virginia would be a bit of a drive.

[Derek Cohen]

Steven

In a situation such as yours, with non-grain orientated boards, you cannot use handplanes - unless they are very high angle and even then probably only a scraper would work. This is not going to remove much material. I would use scrapers at the end but ..

The ideal tool in my mind is the power router, used in an overhead manner of a CNC machine. All you need to do is build a fence around the bench (MDF) and a cradle for it on very (!) stiff runners (steel angle). Then take very shallow cuts across and down the bench top. Use a wide straight bit and finish off with a scraper.

Regards from Perth

Derek (offering a non-handtool solution in a handtool forum)

[Michael Perata]

Steven

I am working through the same problem you are having. I built my workbench out of Lyptus 1.5 year ago and I am now reflattening it.

I would like to take Mark's advice about bringing it down to a cabinet shop and resanding it (I did that originally) but the top weighs nearly 250# and I have no interest in carting it around.

You have the right tools. I would put the #164 away and get out the #7 and #4 1/2. Start with the #7 and grossly flatten the top. While you are doing that call up L-N tomorrow and get their high angle frog for the #4 1/2 and you should notice a big difference in the tear out. You wont get rid of it entirely (this is a workbench by the way) but you will get it flat and that is what really counts here.

[Roy Wall]

Steven

I am working through the same problem you are having. I built my workbench out of Lyptus 1.5 year ago and I am now reflattening it.

I would like to take Mark's advice about bringing it down to a cabinet shop and resanding it (I did that originally) but the top weighs nearly 250# and I have no interest in carting it around.

You have the right tools. I would put the #164 away and get out the #7 and #4 1/2. Start with the #7 and grossly flatten the top. While you are doing that call up L-N tomorrow and get their high angle frog for the #4 1/2 and you should notice a big difference in the tear out. You wont get rid of it entirely (this is a workbench by the way) but you will get it flat and that is what really counts here.

Micheal,

That HA frog will fit 4.5, 5.5 and the 7......

Why do you say "grossly flatten" with a #7? I'm under the impression the #7 IS the tool for getting a board as flat as possible...

[Michael Perata]

gross as in overall

[Dan Forman]

Here is an article describing the method Derek suggested.

http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/makingitplane.pdf

Dan

[Michael Perata]

Tongue in cheek reply :rolleyes:

I thought in this part of SMC we weren't allowed to burn electrons. Of course we could easily modify the sled in Neandertal tradition by narrowing the slot and then use our scrub planes, then a #7 and then a 4 1/2. ;)

Good article by the way. :)

[Dan Forman]

Michael---Sounds like a marketable jig for the truly committed. :D

Dan

[James Carmichael]

There was a recent article in one of the WW mags, I think a special shop projects edition of Wood or American WW that had a jig (fixture?) for flattening a workbench top with a router. Essentially a dado jig with leveled guide rails (jointed 2x4s) running the length of the workbench on either side.

Oops, I should read the replies first, this is the same suggestion Derek had. It may be heresey in this forum, but at least you can still do it yourself rather than take it to someone, which, as Michael pointed out, may not be real practical.