Jet Proshop

[Pat Watts]

I have a Jet Proshop 1 3/4 hp table saw I know it can be wired for 220 volts but can the motor be converted to a 3hp or does anybody know of a replacement 3hp motor for it. Jet does not offer any type of retrofit. I keep tripping the breaker on the saw or circuit panel when trying to saw thru 2-3" hard maple and I can't afford a new 3hp saw that can. I would be grateful for any advise other than "Get a new saw". Thanks ahead of time. Pat:confused:

[Mark Rakestraw]

A thin kerf blade would help. You would be turning 1/32" less wood to dust. Of course thin kerf blades have less rigidity, which may or may not be a problem.
Mark


I have a Jet Proshop 1 3/4 hp table saw I know it can be wired for 220 volts but can the motor be converted to a 3hp or does anybody know of a replacement 3hp motor for it. Jet does not offer any type of retrofit. I keep tripping the breaker on the saw or circuit panel when trying to saw thru 2-3" hard maple and I can't afford a new 3hp saw that can. I would be grateful for any advise other than "Get a new saw". Thanks ahead of time. Pat:confused:

[Pat Watts]

Yes I'm using that plus a blade stiffener it's just slow and a little scary because of the force it takes to feed the wood. Thanks

[Jerry Wright]

Before you give up on the saw:
Blade sharp?
Fence aligned properly?
Are you using a splitter?
Anything else on your circuit?

I used a Craftsman, 1.5 HP contractor saw for 35 yrs and routinely ripped 3" maple.

[Mark Rakestraw]

If it takes a lot of "force" I too would think your blade may be dull rather than a hp problem.

[Andrew Nemeth]

Are you using a rip blade? The extra teeth of a combination blade can add a lot of resistance too.

[Jerry Wright]

You have clearance for a blade stiffener cutting 3" stock? I once found that my stiffener was interfering with the cut, i.e. rubbing.

[Sam Stephens]

if you're tripping the breaker in the panel or the saw, then it isn't your motor's hp that's limiting, it's your amps. Are you sure you're wiring/breaker is rated for that saw? Is the line to that outlet dedicated or shared? If so, then with what else? With that motor at 120VAC you could be pulling upwards of 15 amps; you need a breaker and supporting wiring (12/2) rated at least at 20amps. Biggest benefit to switching to 220V will be having a dedicated circuit for that saw (I'm assuming here that you'd need to run a circuit for this). FWIW, I have a 1.75hp saw that I use to routinely rip 2-3" thick hardwood (maple, walnut, etc)

[Jim Neeley]

A 3-hp motor will definitely be 220, so if the breaker tripping is the issue with your current saw, first convert the saw to 220V.

*IF* that breaker is dedicated to that saw AND it the motor has internal protection you could increase the breaker size with the existing wire. This is only possible if the receptacle isn't daisy-chained with other receptacles on the same breaker.

[scott spencer]

I would not add a 3hp motor to that saw....the trunnions and drive system weren't design for that much torque or weight. Definitely double check the blade/fence alignment and the pulley/belt alignment. If you've got 220v, definitely make the switch....no harm done, and it might cure the problems of an inadequate 110v circuit.

A good sharp TK blade, especially a rip blade with a low tooth count and a steep hook angle should have little trouble cutting 6/4 to 8/4" hardwood, and should even be able to cut reasonably well to 12/4". Something like a Freud LU87, Infinity 010-124, DeWalt Precision Trim DW7124PT, CMT 202.024.10, or the new Irwin Marples 24T TK blade should make pretty easy work of most hardwood.

It'll also help if your lumber is flat and square.

[Pat Watts]

Thanks guys all something to consider and I do have access to a dedicated 220 source.