Why buy a bandsaw when you can build one? Pre-Gloat

[Tim Morton]

Not sure why i can't just do as normal people do and buy a new crated tool..plug it in and enjoy it. I refurbed a 16 year old jointer, built a router table, bought a contractor saw and upgraded it to a "nicer" saw. Now i am buying the 14" Delta bandsaw top from Redmond and am going to build my own stand and search out a motor, which is the main reason i am posting this now instead of next week when the bandsaw arrives. If anyone has a 1.5HP motor that they want to sell let me know, or otherwise confirm that I want to put a leeson 1.5HP 1725rpm motor running off 110v.I am going to put the riser block on right from the get go, so i also need blade recommendations as well. Here is a link and picture of the soon to be new bandsaw...thanks to Jim and all the others who thought this might be a worthwhile project.
http://www.redmond-machinery.com/delta_28-212R.htm

[John Hart]

Tim,
I want to do this...Please keep posting as you go...I'm dying to build my own!

[Jim Becker]

Congratulations on your order...and remember, someone "out there" once asked, "Why be normal?" And just what IS normal, anyway... ;)

Northern Tool carries Leeson...one example is a 2hp 1725 RPM unit for $197 (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200306779&R=200306779).

[Maurice Ungaro]

Tim,
Congrats! You know I like doing business with Redmond :D . They didn't have those available when I pulled the trigger on mine. You ARE getting the riser block for that puppy, right?

[Michael Cody]

Great project, I am going to pull the trigger on one this morning. I've been sorta holding out to buy a Rikon 18" but money isn't there in the near future... I have 2hp 3450rpm Delta replacement motor I bought off Ebay(65$ +ship) for a DC unit I've never built, just sitting my garage. Figure I could use that to build this up and just setup pulleys to get the correct RPM to the saw. Keep us up-to-date on the build. My cost to ship here to MI was only 98$ if I pick it up at the freight terminal which I always do if I can .. not bad at all.

[Russ Massery]

There's a couple bandsaw bases for sale over on tha classified section

[Tim Morton]

Tim,
Congrats! You know I like doing business with Redmond . They didn't have those available when I pulled the trigger on mine. You ARE getting the riser block for that puppy, right?


I ordered the riser block from amazon this morning and even saved $10 bucks with a coupon I had :D

[Maurice Ungaro]

Tim,
With that link Jim B. gave you, you should be able to find a suh-weet motor for that thing. Thinkin' about a 2 hp?

[Dan Forman]

Tim---Be sure to check out the Iturra Designs catalog, he specializes in souping up Delta 14 inchers. No website, but here is a number to call.

1-888-722-7078

Dan

[Alan Turner]

Tim,
You are correct that a 1725 motor is what you want. Ebay might be a source. I seem to recall someone on there sells motors, NIB, pretty cheaply.

[John Shuk]

I've Baldor motors on ebay pretty cheap as well. Some even say that they are NEW IN BOX. Good luck.

[Tim Morton]

Thinkin' about a 2 hp?

I'm thinking 1.5HP in order to run it on 110...unless that gets rejected here:D

[John Hart]

Tim,

Here's an Ebay link for a Leeson 1.5 @1750
The buy it now price is $15

Here's their description:

Model- C6K17FB9F RPM- 1725

HP-1.5 Hz- 60

V-115 F.L.A.- 8.8/8.6

Frame- G56H Phase- 1

This motor is in good condition.

<!-- End Description

[Dev Emch]

Hi Tim...
Cudos off to you for doing this. I do this stuff all the time so please take what I am about to say with a grain of salt as I do not often take my own advice. But I also have an extensive machine shop includings metal lathes and milling machines and precision grinders and metal planers. In fact, I can almost repoduce an entire oliver in my garage from scratch! I still need to oursource foundary operations but I do my own patternmaking. I find that fun.

In going through the HAER photo records using wood shop and pattern shop as a search criteria, I did find a very strange home made bandsaw. I can reproduce the URL if there is a call for it. The base was a wooden box and the frame of the saw was made from heavy duty steel pipe parts. I would figure about a 2 to 3 inch steel pipe. Most likely 2 or 2.5 inch pipe. The fittings were standard T parts, end caps, and what not. On the bottom of the frame, there was a steel plate bolted onto the pipes with holes drilled through the plate and pipe. This gave support to the stucture and also provided a place to bolt on the lower pillow block bearing assembly. The upper pillow block bearing assembly was "clamped" onto the horizontal run of pipe that made up the classic C shape of a bandsaw frame. By undoing the clamp bolts, you could rotate or change the angle of the upper axle affecting the blade tracking. Inside the box was a motor and the standard two pulley sheave arrangement which powered this thing. Clearly it was made by an imaginative person on a serious budget out in the middle of nowhere. As a restrictive design exercise, it is a great project, esp. as a lab project to try to teach our new crop of engineers to think and function without multi million dollar budgets and computer designed cookie cutter solutions.

Now you mentioned in your plan that you wish to build your own saw and that you wish to incorporate a riser block with a sub 2 HP motor. Well, whenever I hear the term "riser block", it gets a rise out of me. The standard 14 inch bandsaw which is powered by a 3/4 to 1.5 HP single phase motor is *NOT* a resawing bandsaw. I currently own a few bandsaws as "olde arn" seems to follow me home like desperate puppies. I do own a mint condition general bandsaw which I will be selling on ebay as soon as I get it moved to another location. I resaw a lot! My main resaw machine these days is a 36 inch oliver 416 from the 1960s. I dont need this size but when it comes to good deals on used machines, you sometimes have to make compromises and a few roof rafters were this compromise. Oh well, didn't need them anyway. At any rate, your going to a hell of an effort to create a bandsaw of which there are quite a few on the market. If you can live with a 14 incher with low power, that this will work. But I know guys like you! As soon as you get it working, you will be starting the next improvment. What was Tim Allen's favorate phase.. "Ohhhh Ohhhh More Power!"

So I would look into two things. First, try to get some more power on the motor. It is not uncommon for 18 and 20 inch saws to have 2 to 3 HP motors on them. You can get these in single phase or three phase. Resaw needs power! Second, you may also wish to go out and find a used 18 or 20 or 30 inch "vintage bandsaw". Join the forum on yahoo for old wood working machines and check out the website www.owwm.com and have a look at various vintage saws that have been rehabilitated from corporate life and are now used to fullfill a newer and more noble calling.... the home wood shop. As I mentioned, if you resaw, you need to go larger. If you just use the saw as a light duty bandsaw for cutting curves in thinner stock, then the 14-teener will surfice.

Good Luck...

[Tim Morton]

Tim,

Here's an Ebay link for a Leeson 1.5 @1750
The buy it now price is $15

Here's their description:

Model- C6K17FB9F RPM- 1725

HP-1.5 Hz- 60

V-115 F.L.A.- 8.8/8.6

Frame- G56H Phase- 1

This motor is in good condition.

<!-- End Description -->http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=26226&item=7510466716&rd=1

That motor is right down the road from me....looks kind of old and beat up...but it might not be a bad eay to start. Although I think from what I'm reading here 2HP might be the better choice for resawing.

[John Hart]

More power...oooh oooh oooh :D

[Tim Morton]

I ordered a 1.5HP Leeson 113938 motor from ebay tonight. $180 shipped NIB.



PS...this thread is showin incorrectly in my firfox browser, I am only getting some of the replays. They all show up in my safari browser...I wonder If I am missing any in other threads?

[Tim Morton]

So cost wise i am here:

14" Delta bandsaw (top only) $395 shipped
6" Delta riser Kit $79 shipped
1.5HP Leeson motor $180 shipped.
Rockler 18 amp power switch $14 shipped (already have it)
Delta mobile base and wood bandsaw stand $0 (already have everything to make this part)

Still need to get a 2" pulley and link belt..(guessing $50 or less)

Grand total will be a tad over $700 I don't see another bandsaw that is better than this for under $700....now I just need a weekend to put it all together. If anyone has built a bandsaw stand i would love to hear about it. I'm thinking it will be not much more than a very sturdy box with a door and some vent holes for the motor. I will build the mobile base right into it using the parts from my old delta mobile base.

So far no surprises. I was at woodcraft today and saw a 14" delta x5 with riser kit and mobile stand and it was over $1400 with tax and I don't see how it was going to be any better. The salesman was not impressed with my comparison :D

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Alan in Md.

[Tim Morton]

I am building the box today using MDF and I have a motor mount/link belt question. I planned on either building a small box inside the box for the motor to sit on, or possibly build a divider and hang the motor sideways as is the case with the OEM delta closed box. But in reading he delta manual I see that some bandsaws are actually using a hanging system for the motor ala a contractor saw. Is this something I need to investigate further, or can I just build the thing using a ridgid mount and take a link out from time to time if needed> :confused:

[Scott Loven]

I also have one on order from Redmond, should be here by Wednesday or so!
Scott

[Tim Morton]

I also have one on order from Redmond, should be here by Wednesday or so!
Scott


Thats what they told me too...so how are you completing yours?

[Tim Morton]

r possibly build a divider and hang the motor sideways as is the case with the OEM delta closed box

I think I have answered my own question. I am designing it now to mount the motor on a side wall divider. But i am going to make a channel for a mounting board to slide up and down on and I will have a couple of bolts that will squeeze it together at the right tension. If the belt loosens i can let the mounting board drop down a bit and retighten. Might be over kill...but i would not think you guys would accept anything less :D

[Jim Becker]

Tim, you definitely need a method for tensioning the belt, so a pivoting mount that you can secure is likely what you want to make. Be sure to use some scrap plywood to provide secure mounting points for the same as the MDF doesn't have the same strength.

One nice thing about using the MDF for your cabinet is that you can round the corners a little, fill in the fuzzy areas with spackle and then paint to match the saw. It will look like metal if you wish!

[Tim Morton]

Tim, you definitely need a method for tensioning the belt, so a pivoting mount that you can secure is likely what you want to make. Be sure to use some scrap plywood to provide secure mounting points for the same as the MDF doesn't have the same strength.

One nice thing about using the MDF for your cabinet is that you can round the corners a little, fill in the fuzzy areas with spackle and then paint to match the saw. It will look like metal if you wish!

I think of tensioning as it is done on my contractor saw..where the weight of the motor is being carried by the link belt. But on my jointer the motor is fixed to a flat shelf...hence "no tensioning". I can envision a "semi-tensioning system"....but does the weight of the motor need to be carried by the belt to qualify as "tensioning" as you describe?

I am going to round off the corners and add a base trim piece to replicate the original base, and paint it to match the color of the bandsaw. And back in the "day" I used to build highend speaker systems for cars so I know the lack of holding with MDF. Although using my new impact driver(hidden gloat), i am finding that I am getting really close to what would be considered good gripping....but for the motor mount I am using plywood anyway. i will try and get some pictures posted later tonight to clear up this confusing description of the motor mount.

[Jim Becker]

Tim, if I recall clearly, the motor in the Jet 14" saw I used to own was on a platform that could be adjusted for tension and locked down, but it's been awhile and I could be mistaken. The weight of the motor would not be sufficient in this application, IMHO...you need to be able to get it pretty tight for good performance.

[Tim Morton]

Tim, if I recall clearly, the motor in the Jet 14" saw I used to own was on a platform that could be adjusted for tension and locked down, but it's been awhile and I could be mistaken. The weight of the motor would not be sufficient in this application, IMHO...you need to be able to get it pretty tight for good performance.


That's good to hear, because even if I'm not explaining myself that well..Using this design I plan on pushing the motor down until the belt is good and tight, and then locking it in place to hold that tension. And as the belt loosens up i can then loosen the clamping system and push the motor tighter and retighten.

[Jerry Olexa]

Tim I am impressed!! thats quite a project and good for you!! (Great website also). I don't have your "daring" attitude to plunge in and build a tool from almost scratch. Of course, you're probably spending some of your $ winnings from the RedSox and Patriots last year and last night, the Celtics blew out the Pacers. Tim, seriously, I respect your effort!! Great ingenuity! Keep us unworthy spectators posted!:D

[Tim Morton]

Tim I am impressed!! thats quite a project and good for you!! (Great website also). I don't have your "daring" attitude to plunge in and build a tool from almost scratch. Of course, you're probably spending some of your $ winnings from the RedSox and Patriots last year and last night, the Celtics blew out the Pacers. Tim, seriously, I respect your effort!! Great ingenuity! Keep us unworthy spectators posted!:D

I'm pretty beat from just building the base yesterday and I haven't even tried wrestling with the bandsaw yet. its still too early to see if I made the right decision. I was reading the "rockler" gloat thread just now and he spent about the same money for a jet 16 incher.......but I don't have a rockler near me, so that was not an option...and I hope this turns out to be just as nice a bandsaw.

Thanks for the encouragement!!! :D

[James Carmichael]

I think 1.5 would be sufficient, but, HP is something you can never have too much of. Since you're DIYing your BS, why not also go with Iturra's high-speed pulleys. They will increase blade speed to 4000 fpm, which will not only cut faster, but produce a better finish. If you go that route, your blade choices should probably be a Bi Metal or Carbide.

You might do better shopping a local motor repair shop, at least you would save the shipping.

[Mac McAtee]

Grizzly has a 14" bandsaw, complete, stand motor and all for $325. I'd wager that it was built in the same factory from the same parts. Just take a look at the photo on the Grizzly site and compare the castings, table and stamped sheet metal covers. Only difference I see is the diamond shaped indentations on the upper wheel cover, other than that and green paint, it looks like the same machine.

[Mac McAtee]

So cost wise i am here:

14" Delta bandsaw (top only) $395 shipped
6" Delta riser Kit $79 shipped
1.5HP Leeson motor $180 shipped.
Rockler 18 amp power switch $14 shipped (already have it)
Delta mobile base and wood bandsaw stand $0 (already have everything to make this part)

Still need to get a 2" pulley and link belt..(guessing $50 or less)

Grand total will be a tad over $700 I don't see another bandsaw that is better than this for under $700....now I just need a weekend to put it all together. If anyone has built a bandsaw stand i would love to hear about it. I'm thinking it will be not much more than a very sturdy box with a door and some vent holes for the motor. I will build the mobile base right into it using the parts from my old delta mobile base.

So far no surprises. I was at woodcraft today and saw a 14" delta x5 with riser kit and mobile stand and it was over $1400 with tax and I don't see how it was going to be any better. The salesman was not impressed with my comparison :D

How about this one? http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G1073&

[John Hart]

I gave this a lot of thought over the weekend Tim....I think you need to add $500 of value for the satisfaction that you did it yourself. This makes your $700 Bandsaw worth $1200.

Comments like "Wow...You MADE that??!!" are priceless.

[Matt Bollinger]

Sounds like you have the right idea for the motor. Here is a shot of from the owners manual of my 14" Jet...

[Scott Loven]

I have a jet base coming from Domonic Greco, and am going to get the riser block from Amazon, and timberwolf blades from Suffolk machinery. I have a 3/4hp delta bandsaw motor that I am thinking of using and have a delta mobile base kit that I havent used yet. I also have a Kreg fence system that I want to put on the saw, so will be selling the one that comes with it. I feel like Johnny Cash and his Cadillac!

[Michael Cody]

Grizzly has a 14" bandsaw, complete, stand motor and all for $325. I'd wager that it was built in the same factory from the same parts. Just take a look at the photo on the Grizzly site and compare the castings, table and stamped sheet metal covers. Only difference I see is the diamond shaped indentations on the upper wheel cover, other than that and green paint, it looks like the same machine.


Actually this Delta is one of the last American built ones ... the new Deltas are all Chinese or Taiwan as are the grizz's ... that would be the one thing I would figure here ... it's worth the extra cash for the better saw. Now that said I ordered one, but I already have the motor, riserblock, switches & belts, so all I have to do is build the base and buy a couple of pulleys.. for me it's a no brainer.. butfrom Grizz for 695$ + shipping you can get a ShopFox 16" ... or an ultimate 14" + shipping for 500$ ..but neither will have 12" resaw and the Delta 14" has a great reputation... @ 700$ or so, it's a wash but with a 1.5 Lesson, this is a superior saw to the Grizz offerings IMNSHO... This delta has better guides than the grizz 14" too.. it's the equiv to the new Delta 28-248 except for the Tension release.. which sells for 900$

I plan to add some Iturra options eventually .. but I would do that with other saws too.. it's sorta like building a Killer Chevy 350 -- the best reason to work on it is that all the parts are made for it ... the Delta is the standard of 14" saws, everyone builds stuff to fit it first ...

[Tim Morton]

Sounds like you have the right idea for the motor. Here is a shot of from the owners manual of my 14" Jet...


That is how I have mine set-up. Only the motor is mounted to a board that slides up and down in a channel. I can lock it in place once I find the right tension.

[Tim Morton]

I have run into my first snag....I called Delta tech support to find out about what they recommend as a pulley size for this bandsaw now that I am using a 1.5HP motor instead of a 1HP motor, and they won't say anything based on liability issues. So with a 1HP motor 1725RPM it uses a 2 1/4" pulley. Now that I am using a larger motor, where would I look to see if I can still use a 2 1/4" pulley? Next I asked her if I could buy a switch that comes on the 28-299 bandsaw and she quoted me $120 bucks for this:
http://www.deltawoodworking.com/index.asp?e=139&p=2264
I have a rockler 18amp on off router switch....why can't I use that? Or should I buy a magnetic switch from Grizzly? Or what other options should I look at?

[Jim Becker]

Your pulley size is based on motor speed, not power. If the original motor used a particular set of pulley sizes and is the same RPM as your intended target motor, the pulley size would be the same assuming you wanted the same blade speed.

[Tim Morton]

Your pulley size is based on motor speed, not power. If the original motor used a particular set of pulley sizes and is the same RPM as your intended target motor, the pulley size would be the same assuming you wanted the same blade speed.


Well thats kind of what i was thinking too, but I thought I read someplace that HP played a factor as well....which of course would make no sense...but I thought I read it someplace.

[John Hart]

Pulley size plays a part with HP when two pulleys are a different diameter. "Developed Horsepower" can be increased or decreased according to pulley size. There may also be considerations with regard to Overhung Loads where bearing and shaft strength may not be able to withstand the stresses experienced from the higher power delivery.

[Jim Becker]

John, do you think a half-horsepower is going to make any real difference in this? I've seen plenty of folks put a 1.5hp motor on these bandsaws as an "upgrade".

[John Hart]

No Jim...I personally don't think it'll make a smidgen of difference. I was just trying to rationalize why Delta Tech support won't touch the subject. They would figure that if the shaft snapped, Tim would yell at them or something:mad:

I don't think there will be a problem...it could probably handle close to double

[Tim Morton]

No Jim...I personally don't think it'll make a smidgen of difference. I was just trying to rationalize why Delta Tech support won't touch the subject. They would figure that if the shaft snapped, Tim would yell at them or something:mad:

I don't think there will be a problem...it could probably handle close to double


Me yell??:D This is still fun for me...I'm thinking the saw will arrive in a couple days, not sure if the motor will be here for the weekend or not, but I still have plenty of work left before I need to put the motor on.

[Tim Morton]

Pulley size plays a part with HP when two pulleys are a different diameter. "Developed Horsepower" can be increased or decreased according to pulley size. There may also be considerations with regard to Overhung Loads where bearing and shaft strength may not be able to withstand the stresses experienced from the higher power delivery.


So if I'm going err, should I err to the smaller size pulley? I'm not about to start throwing 12" cherry tree trunks though this bandsaw anytime soon.

[Jim Becker]

The more I think about this, I think the terminology is getting in the way. Varying the pulley size changes the "gear ratio" much like your transmission does on your car. If the change in pulley size slows down the blade ("low gear") you'll appear to have "more power" when you are laboring the machine. But you'll also have a cut that is not as clean as it would be with the blade moving "normal" speed. Personally, I'd stay with the "factory ratio" on this project or seek the advise of Iturra.

[Tim Morton]

The more I think about this, I think the terminology is getting in the way. Varying the pulley size changes the "gear ratio" much like your transmission does on your car. If the change in pulley size slows down the blade ("low gear") you'll appear to have "more power" when you are laboring the machine. But you'll also have a cut that is not as clean as it would be with the blade moving "normal" speed. Personally, I'd stay with the "factory ratio" on this project or seek the advise of Iturra.

I am looking for a 2 1/4 pulley(factory ratio) and starting switch now.

[David Dixson]

Tim,

Give the guys at Suffolk Machinery a call. They helped me convert my 4 speed 14" to a single speed at 3000 with just a couple minutes on the phone, plus they sell great bandsaw blades.

Dave

[John Hart]

The more I think about this, I think the terminology is getting in the way. Varying the pulley size changes the "gear ratio" much like your transmission does on your car. If the change in pulley size slows down the blade ("low gear") you'll appear to have "more power" when you are laboring the machine. But you'll also have a cut that is not as clean as it would be with the blade moving "normal" speed. Personally, I'd stay with the "factory ratio" on this project or seek the advise of Iturra.

Yup...I'd have to agree with Jim. Sacrificing speed is probably too big a sacrifice.

[Tim Morton]

A little minor freaking out going on this morning....it seems that Delta has 2 different bandsaws labeled 28-299 and 28-299a..with 2 dfferent owners manuals. 28-299 manual is dated 2001 and 28-299A is dated 2002 and CLEARLY shows a made in the USA sticker on the side. The parts list for the A version shows a 9" driven pulleu where the NON-a earlier version shows a 4 7/8 driven pulley...I guess you know where this is going by now...did Delta make a 28-299 version overseas? I have an email into redmond who clearly told me this was a made in the USA model when I called to order, and I will call delta when they open this morning.....could the bandsaw project be coming to an early end?:confused:

[Tim Morton]

All is good...just talked to Rich and he assured me the bandsaw was in fact a Made in USA machine. The A model with the larger driven pulley was stepping down a 3450RPM motor. The differences int he various 299 version bandsaws was more to do with accesories. :D

[Tim Morton]

Its HERE!!! Its HERE!!!!:D:D

Arrived at work this afternoon, just as Rich said it would when I ordered it. Box was flawless and the driver helped me load it down into my truck bed. I drove it home and lowered it into my basement through the bulkhead with no problems. After dinner i will uncrate it and post some pictures of the saw and the base i am building. The motor/riser block/pulleys/cool blocks/blade will all arrive before friday, so I hope to have it up and cutting wood by the weekend, just in time to start work on 2 potting benches for my wife and MIL for mothers day.

Thanks for reading and taking time to help me with the project, I'm sure without you guys i would not be able to do this. Special thanks to Jim becker for giving me the intial SHOVE, and all his expertise.

[Jim Becker]

What? No pictures? Sheesh!!

(It's fun spending other peoples' money...hee hee)

[John Hart]

Its HERE!!! Its HERE!!!!

Cool Tim!! Can't wait to see it!

[Tim Morton]

What? No pictures? Sheesh!!

(It's fun spending other peoples' money...hee hee)
I said pictures would come after I got back from going out to dinner...being it was my pre-aniversary dinner I had to go:D Here are some preliminary photo's...the thing is NICE...brand new and made in the USA, and if anyone actually is reading this I talked about coming up with a way to hang the motor so that I could add tension when needed. If you look inside the stand you will see a small plywood board sitting sort of behind 2 longer pieces of plywood. This floats in that channel and I will mount the motor to a piece of somethign and then mount it to that moving piece of plywood. drill some holes through when I am happy with the tension and stick a dowel in to hld it..or something. like that. I started rounding the corners, but i only have a 1/2" rounder over bit handy last night. I may leave it...we'll see, But I want to paint it metalic to match the bandsaw.

[Tim Morton]

A couple more...

[John Hart]

Cool!...Excitement at the Morton house....Envy at the Hart house!;)

[Tim Morton]

Cool!...Excitement at the Morton house....Envy at the Hart house!;)

Hey John, come on over and join the excitement...the wife and duaghter are watching Dr. Phil, and if you notice the bandsaw is NOT on the stand yet:D I think I can hoist it up myself, but a little help would be welcomed.

[John Hart]

Hey John, come on over and join the excitement...the wife and duaghter are watching Dr. Phil, and if you notice the bandsaw is NOT on the stand yet:D I think I can hoist it up myself, but a little help would be welcomed.

heh heh...yeah...I'll be right over.....Let me just get the Learjet warmed up...meet me at the airport!

Have fun!!:)

[Maurice Ungaro]

Congrats Tim! I'm waiting for Zack, Greg, Scotty, or anyone else from Redmond to call me up and tell me that the shipment of saws (of which mine is a part) has arrived. I've got the mobile base all ready and waiting.

[Scott Loven]

Mine came in Monday, in perfect shape. The box was strapped to a pallet and then stretch wrapped. Redmond quoted me a price of $117 for delivery to Iowa. I checked with our shipping guy at work and he was able to get it delivered to me at work for $75 by one of the trucking companies that we use. He told me that I can ship anything up to 500 pounds in or out of here to anywhere in the US for the same price. I have a couple of RAS's that I am thinking of selling that way if I ever get around to it.
Scott

[Bill Lewis]

You know, since you guys are building these saws, there is one thing you might want to consider doing. Add Cone Pulleys to the setup to have allow for different saw speeds. After all you have to build the motor support and tensioning part anyway. It comes in real handy to slow it down to cut (ferrous) metals. I'm looking to do this with my saw one day (Delta 14").

[Tim Morton]

For anyone who has installedthe riser block, any hints? I was thinking that lifting the bandsaw to the stand during the install would make it a one man job? Is this possible or do i needto line up a neighbor? I already determined I need to buy TWO wrench's I don't have, but I will suck that up and call it a tool purchase.

[Jim Becker]

Tim, while I did my riser installation (on the Jet saw I used to own) by myself, it was difficult and I don't recomment it. That upper casting is both heavy and awkward...and you DON'T want to drop it...on your foot or on the floor. Having a second person to help you lift and balance things will make the installation go smoother and safer.

[Glen Blanchard]

For anyone who has installed the riser block, any hints?

Tim - One big suggestion. I would bet that it will work on your Delta the same way it did on my Jet. When you remove the original blade guard (by sliding the rod down and out) BE SURE to have the new rod in place RIGHT BEHIND the original so that AT NO TIME is there no rod in the holder. I have been told that there are some bearings in there that will indeed slip out if you merely remove the original rod with the intention of sliding in the new one as your next step. This will greatly complicate the upgrade.

I hope that makes sense.

[Tim Morton]

Tim, while I did my riser installation (on the Jet saw I used to own) by myself, it was difficult and I don't recomment it. That upper casting is both heavy and awkward...and you DON'T want to drop it...on your foot or on the floor. Having a second person to help you lift and balance things will make the installation go smoother and safer.

I have everything in place to assemble this thing over the weekend, motor is here as is the riser block and new blade. I will paint the base in the morning so i can turn it over and set it in the mobile base. Then I will clean up the shop and get a neighbor over once I understand the install procedure of the riser block. I'm getting pretty excited about all this, I know its only a 14" plain jane bandsaw...but still its cool to me.


Tim - One big suggestion. I would bet that it will work on your Delta the same way it did on my Jet. When you remove the original blade guard (by sliding the rod down and out) BE SURE to have the new rod in place RIGHT BEHIND the original so that AT NO TIME is there no rod in the holder. I have been told that there are some bearings in there that will indeed slip out if you merely remove the original rod with the intention of sliding in the new one as your next step. This will greatly complicate the upgrade.

<!-- / message --><!-- sig --> I hope that makes sense. __________________
Regards,

Glen


Thanks for that heads up, I do remember reading that once before about someones experience dropping a bearing. I will make sure I understand completely what you are saying before i remove anything. It seems that I do not remove that post until after the saw is back up on the new riser block, but i am still reading about this install.

[Tim Morton]

I seem to have miscalulated the placement of my motor and I have it about an 1" forward of the "left to right" center of the bandsaw if I were to center the bandsaw on the base. I don't think this will be a problem, but its giving me something to think about while I let the paint dry. Somehow I got confused and measured wrong. I have to decide If I want to position the driven pulley dead center on top of the motor pulley, or push the bandsaw back an inch or so to center it on the base. I think i am going to center the bandsaw cecause I can't imagine why it would affect anyting to have the pulley set back . Obviously they will be flush and coplaner where it matters. removing the motor at this point is not practical. Just rambling outloud. I am on schedule to have the saw on the base tomorrow. I did a paint match at the hardware store and to match the finish they sold me a P&L oil based gloss. I must say its a dead match if anyone is interested.

[Tim Morton]

I have a riser block question. Putting my riser block on the base unit using the guide pins does not let the riser block sit completely flush on the saw. I did the stupid thing and tapped it home with a wood block and hammer, but I still have a tad of daylight. I'm guessing the pins are a semi-important part of keeping the saw from twisting. Not sure if i can get the riser block off easily, not am I sure that the bolt will snuff it up tight, I'm going out to breakfast and waiting for your help. How can I get the riser block off without causing any damage? :(:o

[Jim Becker]

Tim, use a rubber mallet to slowly work it free. And then sand off all the paint from the four mating surfaces so you hopefully get better alignment and a tight joint. You should have no gaps when you tighten the bolts up.

[Tim Morton]

Tim, use a rubber mallet to slowly work it free. And then sand off all the paint from the four mating surfaces so you hopefully get better alignment and a tight joint. You should have no gaps when you tighten the bolts up.

Score!!! Thanks Jim..I had inspected it with these old man eyes and did not think it needed sanding, I guess it would be wise to sand it as SOP. it now sits flush and I am off to eat in a better frame of mind. Eggs benidict over hash sounds about right.

[Bill Lewis]

Funny, I was going to warn you about this very thing Tim, I too had a bur on my riser that needed filing to get it to sit flush. Sorry I spoke too late.

[Tim Morton]

Funny, I was going to warn you about this very thing Tim, I too had a bur on my riser that needed filing to get it to sit flush. Sorry I spoke too late.

Anything you want to warn me about before I hoist the top up and on the riser pins? Other than lift with your knees.:D

[Tim Morton]

Its up on the stand and bolted in place, so far so good. I scratched up the base coat pretty good but i will repaint the base tonight once I am done. Jim suggested a second person to help with the riser install. I thought it was light enough to tackle myself, but had LOML standing by in case. Glad she was there as it is very important like he said to have somone hold and balance the machine when tightening the bolt. Another funny story....she asked me what i would be using the bandsaw for and I told her it owuld be to cut curved radius's(sp) on things like the garden bench she wanted me to build. She looked down at my jigsaw and asked why I couldn't just used that, rolling her eyes again she walked away.:cool: here are a few pictures to look at while I finish up the install.

[Tim Morton]

kind of getting complete....

[Tim Morton]

one more picture

[Tim Morton]

Tim - One big suggestion. I would bet that it will work on your Delta the same way it did on my Jet. When you remove the original blade guard (by sliding the rod down and out) BE SURE to have the new rod in place RIGHT BEHIND the original so that AT NO TIME is there no rod in the holder. I have been told that there are some bearings in there that will indeed slip out if you merely remove the original rod with the intention of sliding in the new one as your next step. This will greatly complicate the upgrade.

I hope that makes sense.

You betcha there was, and even doing it your way I managed to dislodge the bearing. it fell into a painters tray i placed on the BS table for just such an occurance, thanks for the heads up. Took a few trys to reseat it, but much better than hunting on the floor for such a small piece.

[Nick Mitchell]

Great job Tim.

How many hours do you have into this so far?

[Chris Rosenberger]

it looks good Tim. Nice job.

[Corey Hallagan]

Congrats Tim! That will be a cool piece of machinery!

Corey

[Tim Morton]

Great job Tim.

How many hours do you have into this so far?

Thankks everyone...I would figure conservatively I have spent 10 hours on everything, I fquess another couple hours, and I will be able to plug it in and fire it up. Then I guess I need to learn how to use it:D. So far no real surprises and I would say that anyone reading this could tackle it. Other than building he box i don't think there is anything more involved than buying and assembling any bandsaw of this style. And by doing the riser block i am learning about the workings of all the guides. Something tells me the hard part is ye to come.:cool:

[Tim Morton]

As Gene Wilder once said.....

it is .....Alive!!!!!:D:D:D
I want to thank everyone who took the time to read this and help me out with somethign that 2 weeks ago i never thought would materialize, and a special thanks to jim becker who was always there in case I got into trouble without knowing he was there I don't think I would have taken the chance on this...Thanks to him and everyone else...this places is the BEST!!!

[Jim Becker]

Looks great, Tim!! And you have the satisfaction that you know this tool "inside and out"!!

[Tim Morton]

Looks great, Tim!! And you have the satisfaction that you know this tool "inside and out"!!

Where can I go to learn about adjusting things like the blade tension or alignment. I would assume that when running the blade should be someone what stationary and not swim foward and back. I have not adjusted anything other than trueing up the top wheel somewhat. I made quite a mess in the shop this week so i am cleaning that up while I let the touch up paint dry. I need some decals for the base...its a bit plain looking. I do have a doot that I will put on the back once i am sure its all going OK. Maybe I'll make up a SMC sticker for it. I am runing it on a household 15amp 110v breaker and I did manage to trip the circuit once. I am going to get an electrician to beef that circuit up to 20amps for me, cine the outlet is only a foot from the panel, I bet I could just stick a 20a CB on it, but that is something for another day.

[Allen Bookout]

Tim, Since your electrical panel is so close to where you want to plug in your saw and if you have a slot left in it, why don't you just put in a 20amp breaker (less than 8 bucks) and run new 12-2 plus ground wire to a new 110v receptacle and that way it will have it's own circuit. This way you will not affect any other devices that may be on the old circuit and vise versa. Will protect you against overload.

I do not know if you have done this or not but it is very simple. Just look at how the other breakers are wired. The black hot to breaker, the white neutral to the neutral bar and the ground (bare or green wire) to the ground bar which will be evident. Also if you have not done it before I would make sure that all of the power is shut off to the box so that you do not accidentally electrocute yourself.

This should save you unnecessary expense. Allen

PS If you do not feel comfortable about it just forget all that I have said but you do so much stuff on your own I figure that you will have no hesitation. Good Luck!

[Allen Bookout]

Tim, I started a new thread because this is a new subject from my previous post. I think that I am going to do the same as you for a decent bandsaw. Are the blade guides blocks or rollers on that saw? If they are blocks it seems like that it would be better to add a roller set up. Is this better or not and are there any conversion kits out there? If so is it worth the money?

I am also thinking that I would go with a 2hp motor to give more power for resawing. Anyone know of a reason not to other than just a few more bucks?

[Tim Morton]

Tim, I started a new thread because this is a new subject from my previous post. I think that I am going to do the same as you for a decent bandsaw. Are the blade guides blocks or rollers on that saw? If they are blocks it seems like that it would be better to add a roller set up. Is this better or not and are there any conversion kits out there? If so is it worth the money?

I am also thinking that I would go with a 2hp motor to give more power for resawing. Anyone know of a reason not to other than just a few more bucks?

I highly recommend it as a cool project and possibly a way to even save a few bucks. I have metal blocks which seems to be a knock on the delta bandsaw. I replaced them with cool blocks even though i am so new to this BS thing I am not sure why. I have read about the iturra rollers and have an iturra catalog on its way. At this point i am just learning my way around the saw.

I chose the 1.5HP for two reasons...one I do not have 220 YET(long story)...and I wanted to get up and ruuning. I have brand new 2HP leeson motor that i COULD swap out with my jointer if need be, but I think 1.5HP will be a good start. If I need to switch up later when I get 220 its no biggie.I'm sure 2HP would be fine.

I cleaned my whole shop tonight and found a nice home for my new friend, I think it is close to being my new favorite tool, although I think the TS still wins. Now I just need to find a project for it.:D

[Tim Morton]

Tim, Since your electrical panel is so close to where you want to plug in your saw and if you have a slot left in it, why don't you just put in a 20amp breaker (less than 8 bucks) and run new 12-2 plus ground wire to a new 110v receptacle and that way it will have it's own circuit. This way you will not affect any other devices that may be on the old circuit and vise versa. Will protect you against overload.

I do not know if you have done this or not but it is very simple. Just look at how the other breakers are wired. The black hot to breaker, the white neutral to the neutral bar and the ground (bare or green wire) to the ground bar which will be evident. Also if you have not done it before I would make sure that all of the power is shut off to the box so that you do not accidentally electrocute yourself.

This should save you unnecessary expense. Allen

PS If you do not feel comfortable about it just forget all that I have said but you do so much stuff on your own I figure that you will have no hesitation. Good Luck!

The outlet in question would be a dedicated circuit for the bandsaw and tablesaw (using one at a time)...can I swap out the 15a breaker with a 20a breaker without taking the back of the box off? Are they snap in and snap out with the power turned off? I HAVE to get an electrician out here to do 220....thats why i was just going to have him do it. If its as easy as switchign breakers I can tackle that..i can't imagine 12/2 would not be safe with a 20amp circuit over 1 foor of conduit and the lenght of the 2 tool cords. (both 12/2)

[Allen Bookout]

As long as you have #12 wire and there is nothing else on the circuit there is no problem. The breaker should just pull out the front of the box unless it is some type that I do not know about. You probably have two rows of breakers, just pull the part of the breaker nearest the center and it should snap off of the power bar and then it is free to take right out of the front. It may take a bit of force if it is a tight fitting breaker. Sometimes I have to insert something between the two parallel breakers and pry up on the one that I want to take out. Just reverse the process to install the new breaker. Since you are going to use the wire that is already installed all that you have to do is detach the black (or colored wire) from the old breaker, install it in the new breaker and push the breaker back into the box. What brand of box do you have? However if an electrician is going to be out there anyway he should just do it real fast as part of the 220 job.

[Tim Morton]

After a couple of minor adjustments to the wheels and one major adjustment to the rotation of the motor, the bandsaw project is coming to a close. its cutting like butter now and I think its time for a martini to celebrate.:cool:

G'night and thanks again to all.

[Allen Bookout]

Great news!!!!!! About your saw working great I mean.

One thing I forgot to mention is to get the same brand breaker that your box is so that it will work. Some brands are interchangeable but you would have to ask the retailer.

[Ted Shrader]

Tim -

Congratulations. Dominic Greco did an upgrade to his Jet 14". Check this thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=7610

Regards,
Ted

[Jerry Olexa]

Tim you should be PROUD!! Great Job! You deserve an appropriate beverage to celebrate your success!!

[Tim Morton]

Now that it is up and running, (noone picked up on the comment I made about making adjustments to the rotation of the blade), I am absolutely thrilled with the saw. I need to address dust collection, and have seen some good idea's here. I was at a hardware store yesterday and saw they had a couple ShopFox bandsaws, so I looked at them to compare. The larger one was selling for 850 and I thought it was the 16" model that grizz is selling for 650...I was a little nummed because it was beefier than the Delta i built, and part of me thought that maybe I should have purchased that one. Then I looked at the smaller unit thinking it was a 14" model, but in fact the smaller one was the 16" model and after poking around at it I started grinning ear to ear. Everything about the delta is better than that 16" SF. That made my day.:D. The bigger SF unit was a floor model 18" that seemed very nice...much better fit and finish than the 16" model.

I have adjusted the wheels and played with tensioning, as well as adjusted the belt tension. Today i am going to add the cool blacks and get into adjusting the guides. I almost forgot about the fence that came with it, yesterday i was cleaning up and almost threw the fence box away by mistake:o So I will add that today.

The main mistake I made was in designing the motor mount...it was the part I was the most proud of and the one thing jim becker did not comment on...he must have known that it was underdesigned and knew that I would figure it out on my own. The motor is HEAVY and needs to be mounted to steel IMO. Wood is too flexible, and the guides don't work..I will come up with a plan today to change that.

[Tim Morton]

just strolling down memory lane, since I spent the day today tuning up said bandsaw...

And yes i put the new blade on backwards....so 3 years later and I have not improved a BIT in my woodworking skills:cool:

[Roger Ronas]

As a new member I just found this thread and read every post.
Nice job.
I'm actually rebuilding a HF 14" bandsaw as we speak(so the saying goes). If it turns out half as nice as yours, I'll be happy.

RCR