DP Problem

[Mike Hutchison]

I have a Craftsman DP which have already posted here about in re: Owner's Manual
Still looking for a correct manual for the DP Model No. 351-226150
Got one from eBay which was very close to my Model No.
ebay manual buy was a bust. The "index" page references as to content did not
match what was on the corresponding pages. I think the manual was a "Frankendocument"
You could see where the staples in the center sig/pages had been removed and not totally recrimped
The only apparent difference in the machine/s was the eBay manual DP had a
crank table height adjustment and mine doesn't. To me that is not a problem;
but the fact that the table is frozen up as far as being able to tilt it is.
The index pin and large bolt have been sitting on my bench for a long time now
and I have been soaking the holes where the pin and the bolt go
with PB Blaster every time I go by the DP then let sit over night and try to move
next morning. No go.
So far have avoided pounding on the table with ball peen hammer and
wood block. I have tried light taps on the back of the table with hard wood block
since it looks like the table has somehow gotten "pressed" up onto the angle adjustment
plate on the housing possibly shimming and jamming up the motion.
Won't know about that one till I get it freed up and see if there is marking on
the angle plate. Anyway I am going to continue going slow with this as I have put a fair
amount of time into bringing this thing back. Not up to you guys standards or OWWM
but for me pretty intensive
If anyone has experienced this and has some input about how to free this thing up
without cracking the table or otherwise ruining the DP would appreciate the info.

245462

[glenn bradley]

Take the head off, slip the table and collar off the post, clamp table in vise and rubber mallet the collar? You could tap from opposite sides or a-round-and-round to present a different type of "influence" on the joint to inspire separation.

[Joe Kieve]

If the table will move up and down, you might try moving it up far enough to get a small hydraulic jack under it and put pressure on it in small increments. Then after you get pressure on it, tap the table with a rubber mallet.
Just my 2 cents.

joe

[Mike Hutchison]

First Off; Thanks for input
Ended up with a couple more applications of PB Blaster on the back of the table where it joins column
with minimal wait time (not overnight as I had been doing) and tapping with block on side of table.
Finally broke loose; there were some shavings inside. Did the Dremel wheel & compressed air, minor dressing of housing mating surfaces, grease inside of the table housing surfaces procedure.
One reason I want an owner's manual was this operation; couldn't figure how the indexing pin and bolt were supposed to work when the table wouldn't budge with both removed and lying on bench. I have now copped to obvious fact that the index pin ain't supposed to be in there when table tilted. Note one handle with black knob; came out a older Ryobi DP which looked very similar to mine.
Now if I can find a more authentic swivel replacement part for locking the quill raise/lower than a metric
bolt, might even do a decal or label for the front of the spindle housing. Still have original but it is a couple
pieces.

245786

[ray hampton]

If the table will move up and down, you might try moving it up far enough to get a small hydraulic jack under it and put pressure on it in small increments. Then after you get pressure on it, tap the table with a rubber mallet.
Just my 2 cents.

joe

using a jack only on one side will cause the table to cock and stop, using a jack on both of the unit sides will equal out all forces