Sandy

[paul kuflik]

My shop was trashed by the storm. Besides for extensive damage to my stationary and hand power tools, my hand tools, planes, scrapers, etc. have extensive rust damage. Any suggestions as how best to restore them?

[C Scott McDonald]

Really sorry to hear that Paul.

What kind of rust is it surface rust or it is pitted out all ready?

[Keith Weber]

Hey Paul,

Sorry for your loss. My tried and true method for turning cast iron table tops from rusty into gleaming is as follows:

- Buy a bulk pack of razor blades (the box stores sell them as single-sided blades with cardboard protectors on the blades.
- Use a razor blade to scrape off the bulk of the rust.
- Liberally apply a coating of WD-40 to the table top
- Use a green Scotch-Brite pad to rub down the table top, using the WD-40 as a lubricant. This will remove the rest of the rust. I usually do this by hand (it's a good workout), but you could attach the SB pad to a random orbit sander. If you do, keep the sander moving.
- Wipe down the top. It should shine.
- Wipe it down again with paper towels and mineral spirits. This will remove the residual WD-40. Your top should look like new.
- Apply a coat of Paste Wax to the top.

An alternative to the wax is to use Boeshield T-9 to protect the top. It's pricey, but worth having around the shop. It does a good job. An alternative to WD-40 is to use Boeshield Rust Free. It's basically Phosphoric Acid (I believe) and chemically alters the rust and turns it into a black, inert substance (a chemist might chime in and tell you what this is -- I can't remember the technical name), so it doesn't continue to wreck your metal.

Electrolysis tanks are a more labor-intensive and very-effective solution to rust, but requires breaking things down to individual parts. It also makes a bit of a mess.

Hope this helps.

Keith

[paul kuflik]

I appreciate the empathy and the advice. Unfortunately its not the table tops but the guts of the power tools. I had a fairly extensive collection (>25years worth) of antique planes as well as newer Veritas and Lie-Neilsen planes and scrapers. The work ahead is just daunting. The rust is mostly superficial but there is pitting on some tools already. Amazingly a few hand power tools that were completely submerged for more than 24 hours appear to be working, at least for the moment. I was hoping for a relatively simple solution. Thanks again



Hey Paul,

Sorry for your loss. My tried and true method for turning cast iron table tops from rusty into gleaming is as follows:

- Buy a bulk pack of razor blades (the box stores sell them as single-sided blades with cardboard protectors on the blades.
- Use a razor blade to scrape off the bulk of the rust.
- Liberally apply a coating of WD-40 to the table top
- Use a green Scotch-Brite pad to rub down the table top, using the WD-40 as a lubricant. This will remove the rest of the rust. I usually do this by hand (it's a good workout), but you could attach the SB pad to a random orbit sander. If you do, keep the sander moving.
- Wipe down the top. It should shine.
- Wipe it down again with paper towels and mineral spirits. This will remove the residual WD-40. Your top should look like new.
- Apply a coat of Paste Wax to the top.

An alternative to the wax is to use Boeshield T-9 to protect the top. It's pricey, but worth having around the shop. It does a good job. An alternative to WD-40 is to use Boeshield Rust Free. It's basically Phosphoric Acid (I believe) and chemically alters the rust and turns it into a black, inert substance (a chemist might chime in and tell you what this is -- I can't remember the technical name), so it doesn't continue to wreck your metal.

Electrolysis tanks are a more labor-intensive and very-effective solution to rust, but requires breaking things down to individual parts. It also makes a bit of a mess.

Hope this helps.

Keith

[Carl Beckett]

Sorry to hear this Paul.

I think if it were me with such a collection, I might just dunk them all in oil for the moment to stop whatever has started rusting. Since the task ahead is likely to completely disassemble, clean, and reassemble every tool - it might take a while and first step is to stop the damage from growing.

Power tools... unfortunately I dont have any great ideas. A wipedown with a lightly oiled rag. Some oil in the bearings where possible. My gut says just getting them completely dry (a blower and/or heat) and then run them a bit. Short of taking it all apart.

I hope all your friends and loved ones came through in one piece.

[Matt Meiser]

That's sickening just to think about.

There's an article here about a member who had a shop flood and was able to restore many of his tools.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/articles/5/