Good metalworking drill bits / Quick change drill bits

[Alan Lightstone]

Anyone have some good suggestions for good quality metalworking bits? I already have good Forstner bits and good split point bits for wood, but I find that most of the metal working bits I've used are crap.

Also, how about good quality quick change drill bit sets? Again, the BORG stuff has been crap for the most part.

[Matt Meiser]

Quick Change stuff: Make-It-Snappy, available at Woodcraft.

Good drill bit sets: Generally US-made is good stuff. I get replacements made by Toledo Twist Drill (made in Minnesota, not Toledo) at the local tool supplier. The Dewalt Pilot Point stuff doesn't seem bad either.

[Jeff Duncan]

I picked up a drill bit sharpener as it seems to be cheaper than spending money on drill bits all the time. Now I just use the same box store bits for wood and metal and as soon as the dull I give them a quick once over.

As far as the quick change bits I stopped using them years ago when keyless chucks came out. They're not any quicker than regular drill bits when your using a keyless chuck....but they sure cost a heck of a lot more:eek:

good luck,
JeffD

[Ole Anderson]

I use the quick change bits occasionally when I have a few screws to run in that need a pilot hole first, and I am using my impact driver for both. As far as drill bits, the old axiom applies, you get what you pay for.

[Alan Lightstone]

Does the drill bit sharpeners make the effective hole size smaller by wearing down the metal on the bit?

Who makes good sharpeners?

[Jeff Duncan]

No the hole size stays the same, the sharpener grinds a bit of metal right at the business end of the bit. Doesn't take much either unless the tip is really gnarled. I've only used the one I have and it's an older Craftsman model. Works well enough for my needs, though there could be better/newer designs?

JeffD

[pat warner]

Cleveland, bottom left (http://patwarner.com/images/drilling_tools.jpg), certainly in the top 5 in the US.
118 degrees if target is pre countersunk with 120 deg. countersink.

[Sam Murdoch]

I was asking this exact question about good metal bits about a month ago. I was looking for made in the USA metal drill bits. I went through an extensive search, including posting on the Creek, calling the Fuller company and reading a lot of mechanic posts. Finally settled on these, made by Norseman and I think I made a great choice.

245198 available through http://www.emisupply.com/catalog/spm29p-ultradex-mechanics-length-drill-free-cutting-lubricant-p-8634.html

I specifically wanted the mechanics length (a bit shorter and they have a flat spot on the shaft for better hold in a keyless chuck) and the sizes are marked above the flat so I will always be able to read the size. These are 135° split points which I especially like as they (most often ) don't require a center punch to start properly. I saw these priced all over the place and this sale price seemed to be a great deal by $ 20.00 and more. Of course there were lots of other options and set sizes at different prices. This was just what I wanted.

[Carl Beckett]

The Dewalt Pilot Point stuff doesn't seem bad either.



I have two older sets of these pilot points (bullet) and they are good bits. I keep one set for wood as a brad tip substitute, and a second set I do an occasional metal with. (mild steel or Al). Otherwise I would look at some place like Enco or machinist supply house.

Having said that - Im not sure the more recent Dewalt pilot points - it looks like they may have changed them.

[Carl Beckett]

No the hole size stays the same, the sharpener grinds a bit of metal right at the business end of the bit. Doesn't take much either unless the tip is really gnarled. I've only used the one I have and it's an older Craftsman model. Works well enough for my needs, though there could be better/newer designs?

JeffD

Have heard from others they have great luck with the sharpener.

For myself - I have always just sharpened freehand on a grinding wheel (I guess it goes back to the early days as a machinist). Its not hard. In fact you can grind your own brad tip bits (this would be how we used to do sheet metal, or any thin stock since tapered tips cause multisided holes: Grind the tip flat. Then hold the bit where the center is just off the side of the grinding wheel (usually a diamond wheel) and bring it in contact while rotating backwards. By adjusting the angle you hold the bit, you get an undercut so it only cuts at the outside edge while at the same time forming a point. Its not all that hard to do.

[Alan Lightstone]

I was asking this exact question about good metal bits about a month ago. I was looking for made in the USA metal drill bits. I went through an extensive search, including posting on the Creek, calling the Fuller company and reading a lot of mechanic posts. Finally settled on these, made by Norseman and I think I made a great choice.

245198 available through http://www.emisupply.com/catalog/spm29p-ultradex-mechanics-length-drill-free-cutting-lubricant-p-8634.html

I specifically wanted the mechanics length (a bit shorter and they have a flat spot on the shaft for better hold in a keyless chuck) and the sizes are marked above the flat so I will always be able to read the size. These are 135° split points which I especially like as they (most often ) don't require a center punch to start properly. I saw these priced all over the place and this sale price seemed to be a great deal by $ 20.00 and more. Of course there were lots of other options and set sizes at different prices. This was just what I wanted.

Thanks, Sam. Looks good. Never got mechanics length bits before. How much shorter are they? Does it matter on a practical basis?

[Sam Murdoch]

Thanks, Sam. Looks good. Never got mechanics length bits before. How much shorter are they? Does it matter on a practical basis?


The 1/4" bit is about 7/16" shorter, the 1/2" bit is about 7/8" shorter and the progression is about the same through the sizes. For the bits smaller than 1/4" there may be a 1/4" difference in length. More often, I find the shorter length to be an advantage. I have plenty of jobber sizes laying around if I need that little extra. In a pinch, the mechanics bit with the flat spot has the advantage of being able to be held out closer to the tip of the chuck and being more secure than trying that with a fully round shaft.

[John Lanciani]

I have two older sets of these pilot points (bullet) and they are good bits. I keep one set for wood as a brad tip substitute, and a second set I do an occasional metal with. (mild steel or Al). Otherwise I would look at some place like Enco or machinist supply house.

Having said that - Im not sure the more recent Dewalt pilot points - it looks like they may have changed them.

The DeWalt pilot point bits were originally from Germany, made in China now... they are NOT equivalent :(

[fRED mCnEILL]

I find that the drill bits you buy at industrial supply houses are MUCH better than the borg stuff. Usually cheaper too. As a matter of fact I also buy screws and other supplies there as well. I buy a lot of #6 1/2 inch wood/metal screws and I was paying $6 per hundred at HD. Industrial supply house was $2.20

[Jeremy Brant]

I have a full set to 1/2" of Norseman mechanics bits (reduced shanks). They have been fantastic. I also invested in a Drill Dr. 750x for sharpening them. I keep a few common sizes as spares so I can either use a junk bit if needed if I know I'm not going to be using it 'as intended'. I purchased here: http://www.fairburyfastener.com/norseman.htm.

[Mike Henderson]

I also have a Norseman set and it's been great. I recommend them.

Mike

[Renee Whitney]

Have you tried Triumph Twist Drills? They are excellent quality and US made. Also, you can find them at a really reasonable price for the quality. They are dscounted at about 30-40% off Retail here (http://www.carbideprocessors.com/triumph-twist-drill/).

[David Peebles 1]

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned cobalt bits for metal. They withstand heat much better than HHS. Can't name a brand. I get my replacements at Hardware Sales (Bellingham, WA), and rely on them as they carry high quality stuff. Cobalt will drill hardened steels and stainless. Incidentally, if you need to drill stainless steel, and don't have cobalt bits, there is an old trick I picked up years ago. Use canned milk as a lubricant (has butterfat) and coolant (contains water). Makes a mess, but it works. Out of curiosity, I wondered if the oil/water combination could be achieved another way, so I tried mixing miscible oil (dissolves in water, for dormant spraying your apple trees), and it worked. Beats having a partial can of canned milk going sour on the back of your bench. If you've tried using HHS bits to drill stainless, you know the heat just kills them. I've even used the canned milk trick to sabresaw internal cuts in stainless (what a mess!). The teeth on the best bimetal blade soon vanish in smoke and sparks without this technique. For outside cuts (all metals) I use a variable pitch bimetal blade on my slowed-down (around 350-400 fpm) 14" Grizzly bandsaw. Heat buildup isn't a problam, as the blade has time to cool during the trip down, up and over the wheels before it comes back for another go. No, I am not a metal worker, but I'm always making jigs and tool modifications as I need them.

[Gary Herrmann]

Are Toledo Twist Bits really still made here? I thought they went offshore with Chicago Latrobe etc, around 2009.

I'd love to be wrong.

[Sam Murdoch]

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned cobalt bits for metal. They withstand heat much better than HHS. Can't name a brand. I get my replacements at Hardware Sales (Bellingham, WA), and rely on them as they carry high quality stuff. Cobalt will drill hardened steels and stainless. Incidentally, if you need to drill stainless steel, and don't have cobalt bits, there is an old trick I picked up years ago. Use canned milk as a lubricant (has butterfat) and coolant (contains water). Makes a mess, but it works. Out of curiosity, I wondered if the oil/water combination could be achieved another way, so I tried mixing miscible oil (dissolves in water, for dormant spraying your apple trees), and it worked. Beats having a partial can of canned milk going sour on the back of your bench. If you've tried using HHS bits to drill stainless, you know the heat just kills them. I've even used the canned milk trick to sabresaw internal cuts in stainless (what a mess!). The teeth on the best bimetal blade soon vanish in smoke and sparks without this technique. For outside cuts (all metals) I use a variable pitch bimetal blade on my slowed-down (around 350-400 fpm) 14" Grizzly bandsaw. Heat buildup isn't a problam, as the blade has time to cool during the trip down, up and over the wheels before it comes back for another go. No, I am not a metal worker, but I'm always making jigs and tool modifications as I need them.

This from the description of the Norseman bits - for what it's worth:









Magnum Super Premium drills substantially outperform cobalt drills in work hardening Stainless Steel applications. Magnum drills are made of special hi-moly tool steel, which is much tougher than cobalt steel. The thin web penetrates the work hardening stainless fast enough to continually cut beneath the chip which is hardening from deformation. This means the drill is cutting softer steel.

[Carl Beckett]

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned cobalt bits for metal. They withstand heat much better than HHS. Can't name a brand. I get my replacements at Hardware Sales (Bellingham, WA), and rely on them as they carry high quality stuff. Cobalt will drill hardened steels and stainless. Incidentally, if you need to drill stainless steel, and don't have cobalt bits, there is an old trick I picked up years ago. Use canned milk as a lubricant (has butterfat) and coolant (contains water). Makes a mess, but it works. Out of curiosity, I wondered if the oil/water combination could be achieved another way, so I tried mixing miscible oil (dissolves in water, for dormant spraying your apple trees), and it worked. Beats having a partial can of canned milk going sour on the back of your bench. If you've tried using HHS bits to drill stainless, you know the heat just kills them. I've even used the canned milk trick to sabresaw internal cuts in stainless (what a mess!). The teeth on the best bimetal blade soon vanish in smoke and sparks without this technique. For outside cuts (all metals) I use a variable pitch bimetal blade on my slowed-down (around 350-400 fpm) 14" Grizzly bandsaw. Heat buildup isn't a problam, as the blade has time to cool during the trip down, up and over the wheels before it comes back for another go. No, I am not a metal worker, but I'm always making jigs and tool modifications as I need them.

I like cobalt for stainless (stainless has higher 'toughness', and also can be prone to work hardening if not careful with the speed/feed rate). But for mild steel or aluminum a high quality HSS works fine.

[Matt Meiser]

Are Toledo Twist Bits really still made here? I thought they went offshore with Chicago Latrobe etc, around 2009.

I'd love to be wrong.

The ones I've been getting are marked Made in USA. They could be old stock though.