Sandblasting glass?

[Steve Busey]

So what do I need to look for in sandblasting equipment to do the occasional mugs/wine glasses, etc? Trying to do this on the cheap (think Harbor Freight...). Already have a line on a used 30 gal compressor that will do 6cfm@90psi. I do have a laser, but it really doesn't cut deep enough to make a visible engraving.

What grit do I need to be thinking about?

Thanks - I appreciate the collective wisdom in this place!

[gary l roberts]

http://www.amsmith.com/sandblasting/presentations/budget_files/v3_document.htm
Try here everything you need to know to get started.

[Ross Moshinsky]

My experience with sandblasting is mixed. The printer and the UV exposure unit are FAR more important than the cabinet. My opinion is to spend a day really trying to get decent results out of your laser.

Sandblasting is far more labor intensive than laser engraving. If you don't think you can get paid for spending double the time, then it's also not worth looking into.

[Mike Null]

Steve

Try doing a search as this has been covered previously. I agree with Ross' assessment.

[Joe Pelonio]

For simple artwork it's a lot easier to use plotter cut vinyl for the sandblast mask, and it is a messy job. For glassware that compressor should be fine, it takes little time actually blasting, it's the setup and cleanup that take time.

[Tucker Alford]

I never use my plotter to cut resists unless I'm dealing with a complex shape that need to be applied in multiple pieces to conform to the shape of the object. Instead I use a vinyl resist & stick it in the laser. I mask most glass regardless if I will sandblast or not as it looks less "flakey". I use a 120-180 grit silicon carbide material available from Grainger. You can get by with a siphon system available form Harbor Freight but the compressor will be running continuosly to keep up on big projects/multiple pieces. I picked up a used Econoline pressure pot cabinet for a little over a grand & matched it with a 50 gallon Ingersol Rand compressor from Grainger. The pressure pot system uses less air at a lower flow rate. I'm typically blasting around 20-25 psi, with a syphon sytem we would double that number. In my opinion you can't compare lasered glass to sandblasted. If someone is buying a premium piece of crystal or glass they deserve the better results you get with sandblasting. You have the laser, stay away from the uv resists, related exposure & wash out process.

[Steve Busey]

Thanks everyone. I've got a roll of "green laser tape" from LaserBits. Should that be OK to sandblast something like this?

245181

[Tucker Alford]

I replied not sure where the post went. Does anyone else have issues with this bulletin software? I can't seem to use the back button to go back to the tread list page after selecting one thread. Also posts that should appear on the second page aren't visable unless you click on the hybrid view chain.

Anyway, I tried the green tape but didn't like the how it conforms to compound curves, traps bubbles easily & is hard to remove. I purchase vinyl with pcv's, 3m sandblast resist, through Innotech.