recommendations for a Jack plane blade ?

[Matthew N. Masail]

I need to buy a blade for a wooden jack, 2" wide, at least 3/16 thick and 6" long. essentially like these http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=60009&cat=1,41182,43698&ap=1 but since I already have a lee Valley blade (and really really like it) I thought I'd check my other options, to expand my experience. any recommendations? I'm coming to see that I actually like high carbon steel, it feels good to me. I would try the PMV-11 but I'd rather not wait for it since building planes is a relaxing activity for me and I’d rather it not come to a screeching hold.

Since I'm in Israel, and the UK is an option for me too, does anyone have experience with Philly plane blades? http://www.phillyplanes.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=15&Itemid=16

Thanks Guys

[Sam Takeuchi]

Would you be interested in new old stock vintage tapered blades? I bought a few of those from a seller in the UK who has quite a collection of NOS blades for sale. Google "gandmtools" and then under catalog, you can find vintage unsed plane blades, lower right hand part of the list. They also sell on eBay UK (under gandmtoolsales), sometimes has different blades for sale. They are quite reasonable about it, if you see some blades on website and not on eBay, or other way around, they can combine from web catalog and eBay listed stuff if you ask them. If you are interested, check them out.

P.S. I'm not connected with this seller aside from buying stuff from them.

[Chris Vandiver]

Would you be interested in new old stock vintage tapered blades? I bought a few of those from a seller in the UK who has quite a collection of NOS blades for sale. Google "gandmtools" and then under catalog, you can find vintage unsed plane blades, lower right hand part of the list. They also sell on eBay UK (under gandmtoolsales), sometimes has different blades for sale. They are quite reasonable about it, if you see some blades on website and not on eBay, or other way around, they can combine from web catalog and eBay listed stuff if you ask them. If you are interested, check them out.

P.S. I'm not connected with this seller aside from buying stuff from them.


I agree with Sam. G and M Sales is a very good source for vintage blades. I've bought several from them and they've all been very good quality.

[Jim Matthews]

If the difference in cost isn't great, buy the latest and greatest.

You don't see Africa laying POTS lines (Plain Old Telephone Service) - they're installing cellphone towers.
While there's wisdom in the older methods, metallurgy has made huge strides for the home user.

Besides, Canadians are such nice people.

[Matthew N. Masail]

Jim, are you saying that the Lee Valley O1 blade are better than most vintage blades?

if I do go vintage, and I might have to regardless of this plane to try em out :) are there things to be looking for?

Anyone think I might be able to get a blue Japanese blue steel blade made 6" long 1/4 inch thick? probably a question for Stu but if you have thoughts on it..

[Sam Takeuchi]

Jim, are you saying that the Lee Valley O1 blade are better than most vintage blades?

if I do go vintage, and I might have to regardless of this plane to try em out :) are there things to be looking for?

Anyone think I might be able to get a blue Japanese blue steel blade made 6" long 1/4 inch thick? probably a question for Stu but if you have thoughts on it..

If you want a truly Japanese blade, it would be a custom order blade. Simply put, Japanese planes don't use blades in that kind of dimension. I do remember reading about someone who had used Japanese "style" blade that was custom made to fit laminated body plane, but I'm not sure if it was one of those Japanese steels or simple O1. I don't know how much it costs to have a custom blade made, I don't think it would be cheap, though. Might be worth asking if you are really determined to get it!

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Tsunesaburo makes blue steel blades in the laminated style, but sized to be replacements for Stanley/Record planes - basically a Japanese style blade to fit a western metal-bodied plane. Tools From Japan sells them, and I think I've seen them somewhere else as well. Could be a workable solution towards what you're looking for if you don't mind the slot down the middle.

Are you going with a cap-screw or a wedge on this plane? I'd try and get something tapered for a jack plane if I was going to use a wedge, but that's just me.

[Matthew N. Masail]

Tsunesaburo makes blue steel blades in the laminated style, but sized to be replacements for Stanley/Record planes - basically a Japanese style blade to fit a western metal-bodied plane. Tools From Japan sells them, and I think I've seen them somewhere else as well. Could be a workable solution towards what you're looking for if you don't mind the slot down the middle.

Are you going with a cap-screw or a wedge on this plane? I'd try and get something tapered for a jack plane if I was going to use a wedge, but that's just me.

I'm going with a wedge. why is a taper helpful? I've taken as heavy a shaving as I need with my jointer, fitten with a flat blade and it hold fine...

as for the metal plane blades... I want somthing thick, 3/16" and up. I wish Lee Valley had the PMV-11 blades out. but I'm equally excited about a blue steel plane, if I can get one, we'll see. I realized that I want to get the best blades possible, even at a higher cost, they last a life time and it's worth it I think. I really dislike the 2 cheap ones I have.

[george wilson]

Tapered blades were intended to help keep the blades from backing up. I haven't had trouble with flat blades backing up either,if I get the wedge tapped down good and snug. It could also have been an effort to save metal. In the old days,wrought iron was hand processed and much more precious than later on. But,old habits died hard,and even in the 20th.C., in the 1970's,I have seen new made English blades with laminated steel bits and soft,tapered bodies.

[Matthew N. Masail]

Thanks Geoege. what about these at the bottom of the page? http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/hock.htm

[Jim Matthews]

I refer to the newest formulation PM-V11.
I have a few handknives made with powdered steel from Fallkniven, and the durability is only matched by it's ease in sharpening.
The stuff is a marvel. If LV has a blade that will fit your plane, it's well worth consideration.

There is a replacement blade (# 05P24.72) listed at $49 USD

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=45156&cat=1,41182,41186,45156



(http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=45864&cat=1,41182,41187,45864)

[Matthew N. Masail]

I didn't think of that ! ! ! ! ! ! ! can I hold it with a wedge with the chip breaker on it?

[Jim Matthews]

I suppose so - but the blade is already pretty stout.

If you can adust the opening of your plane, it may not be necessary.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Matthew

For woodies, a tapered blade is better than a parallel blade if you are using a wedge. You can use a wedge successfully with a parallel blade, but I find it tends to require a little more downforce for security. More downforce then placed greater stress on the wedge-holding area, and I suspect that this is why Krenov designed his planes the way he did.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/The%20James%20Krenov%20Smoother_html_6b47d5e4.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Matthew N. Masail]

Thanks Derek, so your saying the abutments might be too weak... I didn't think of this as being a problem..... would it help if I used a 12 degree wedge? I was planning on 10 degrees even though the blade will probably have a cap iron. how much of a problem is it really?

Jim, what to you mean adjust the opening? do you mean the mouth? this blade is for a new traditional style wooden jack plane.

[Tony Shea]

I understand you want see what else is out there in the blade market but I just don't think you can do a whole lot better than the LV blades. They are so easy to get a great edge in very little time out of the box. Buying vintage may end up creating a lot of unwanted work in getting the back of the blade flat. Even if this is of no concern I just don't see an advantage in looking elsewhere.

[Ryan Baker]

Why do you want a chip breaker? Especially on a jack plane (and a woodie at that). The chip breaker is just going to get in the way and jamb things up in the throat. It's a jack, not a smoother.

Non-tapered blades will work just fine, even with a 10deg wedge. The only problem (IMO) with non-tapered irons in woodies is that they are harder to adjust because you can't just tap down the iron to loosen the wedge. You need to give it some good smacks to pop the wedge loose.

[Matthew N. Masail]

I want a chipbreaker because the plane will be used more as a panel plane than a jack. i.e the iron will be ground striaght and a tight mouth. but I guess your right that it's not really needed, it's not a smother. plan to make a scrub plane too.