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Matthew N. Masail
11-03-2012, 7:31 PM
the first "Kernov" shape for me, I experimented for a while with body shape on this one until I got it right, I started with a elegant rectangle, but it was so uncomfortable. also a first screw cap. it's all pretty much self explanatory.

7 inches lone, 1 1/2 inches wide HSS blade bedded at 52.5, mouth opening bearly visible. it works well on all woods I tried but for some reason especially shines on very hard woods. also I think my photography skills have improved a bit into "kinda good enough", I worked on it mostly because of Georges comment about my last photos

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Russ Webb
11-03-2012, 8:56 PM
Beautiful. And more importantly it works for you.

Great job. Congratulations.

Sam Takeuchi
11-04-2012, 4:13 AM
Very cleanly and elegantly done. While I'm not a fan of thumb screw on a wooden plane, I think design is good. If you are planning to make guitars in the future, small plane like this can be extremely handy.

I hope to see more of your handy work!

Matthew N. Masail
11-04-2012, 4:50 AM
Thanks for the kind words guys! Sam, I was thinking, why do you prefer a wedge? I'm making a plane with a thin (2mm) blade and although the cap screw holds it like a death grip, it doesn't work so well. maybe a wedge adds mass and reduces vibration, being that is contacts the blade fully and not just one strip and a point like the cap screw?
I plan to make a wedge for this plane to test the theory, but I'd really like to hear other peoples experience with this.

Sam Takeuchi
11-04-2012, 6:26 AM
For me, it's mostly aesthetics. Cap screw being round and metal, they just don't blend in with the rest of the plane. I like overall design to be balanced and has subtle accent. A cap screw on a wooden bench plane always seems to stand out too much and breaks the line. Functionally speaking, I think either should work fine if made right.

As for your 2mm blade, it might need to be stiffen up a bit, either use with cap iron or design a wedge or cap that holds the blade rigidly closer to the edge. I remember someone making a wooden plane with an old Stanley blade and said that the plane didn't work well until he changed it to something else. It just might not be stiff enough for your design. Still, I think you have plenty other option to experiment with and maybe able to find a way to work it out.

Metod Alif
11-04-2012, 3:05 PM
Matthew,
I built several 'less-than-Krenov-style' wooden and metal planes. I find the screw cap to be very much to my liking. With a wooden cap (like yours), a larger angle at the edge would stiffen it. How far is the cap's angle from the cutting edge? I start very close to the edge - causing clogging, then gradually trim back till clogging stops.
As far as aesthetics goes, there is some compromise - as Sam already pointed out. I adjust caps groove so that it stays close to the iron - so close that you cannot remove it without first removing the iron. I am not a fan of round cap screws (heads) with certain (like Krenov style) bodies. I make 'peptobismol- triangular knobs - just my taste (if you want to experiment some).
I use magnets in my planes' beds. They hold irons securely. Only a slight pressure release on the cap, and you can manually adjust the iron, then tighten the cap. A slight tap on the cap retracts the iron - of course a tap on the iron extends it.
Rectangles (to my eyes too) are elegant, but ergonomics in more important. Krenov developed his style precisely because he did not care for the (ergonomics of) vertical totes/handles.
Enjoy your plane(s) Best wishes,
Metod

Matthew N. Masail
11-05-2012, 3:20 AM
Matthew,
I built several 'less-than-Krenov-style' wooden and metal planes. I find the screw cap to be very much to my liking. With a wooden cap (like yours), a larger angle at the edge would stiffen it. How far is the cap's angle from the cutting edge? I start very close to the edge - causing clogging, then gradually trim back till clogging stops.
As far as aesthetics goes, there is some compromise - as Sam already pointed out. I adjust caps groove so that it stays close to the iron - so close that you cannot remove it without first removing the iron. I am not a fan of round cap screws (heads) with certain (like Krenov style) bodies. I make 'peptobismol- triangular knobs - just my taste (if you want to experiment some).
I use magnets in my planes' beds. They hold irons securely. Only a slight pressure release on the cap, and you can manually adjust the iron, then tighten the cap. A slight tap on the cap retracts the iron - of course a tap on the iron extends it.
Rectangles (to my eyes too) are elegant, but ergonomics in more important. Krenov developed his style precisely because he did not care for the (ergonomics of) vertical totes/handles.
Enjoy your plane(s) Best wishes,
Metod

Hi Mike, thanks for the info. the cap edge is about 1/2 inch from the cutting edge, it work fine, but I'm making a new one to test the difference.
I realized I only care about the looks if the plane works like I want it to, if not I couldn't care les., I loose interest in a plane if it's not comfortable too.

Sam, I had that with a small plane too, as soon as I pooped the little victor blade in it worked like a charm. still I plan to take your suggestion and play with it a bit to see how much better it gets.


I havn't decided on how to make the screw heads yet, the one pictured is small simlpy because I wanted to use an offcut for it, but I have an idea how to make them really nice, but it takes some patiance and time I don't have right now.

Chris Griggs
11-05-2012, 6:11 AM
Nice plane Matthew. Looks quite handy and comfortable. Good work on the shaping.