Routing dovetails - instructional book? formulas? rules?

[cal lidderdale]

I need to make some drawers. I bought what seems to be, for home use, a good for the job dovetail jig [HF]. The instruction sheets, what there was of it, was: set it up, throw the wood in it and wa-la dovetails. [NOT!] I've watched several Youtube videos - ya, ok, but this guy has done it 7,000 times and a couple of steps/reasons were auto-pilot... - and being CDO - I need ... the wood is "A" thick, therefore you set the bit "B" deep and you set "C" to xxx because you want.... So, where can one find a good book/manual/write-up? I'm getting close but there are a few things - like you set the guide 1/8" back from the front of the virt. board. Why not 3/16 or 5/16 or 1/4"? - and my pile of scrap is ... :rolleyes:

Thanks
Cal

Edit: not a dovetail router a jig / machine
http://www.harborfreight.com/dovetail-machine-34102.html
lack of coffee, that's my story and....

[Richard Coers]

Personally, I would use that jig as a door stop, not much more. The hold down clamps are so far from the cut, your stock must be perfectly flat and true to even start to get a good cut. The top and front face of the jig is usually not square, it's just bent sheet metal. Not square? Not good cuts. Did you wonder why this thing is 10 times cheaper than other jigs? It's 10 times more unlikely you will get good or consistent cuts. Any jig of this design really needs accurate stock. If one board is a little thick, or slightly bowed, the fit of the cut is thrown off. I always recommend the Keller jigs. The bit is set to match the template, and stock variations will not change the fit. Your style is greatly influenced by the stock.

[Mort Stevens]

I always see people recommending the Leigh and Keller jigs and frankly I don't kno what the appeal of those are.. you route one board at time then break it down and change routers (or bits) to do the adjoining board... too much work in my opinion.

I have the Porter-Cable jig... actually tow of them, one is about 30 years old (model #5116) and the newer design (model #77240) about 5 years old... one you get it setup you never have to touch it... you clamp both adjoining board and route them at the same time... I keep one router devoted to 1/2" and another to 1/4" dovetails and can do a complete drawer in just a few minutes.

[david brum]

I bought a similar, generic dovetail jig a few years ago. I had good luck by using the older Rockler jig manual (http://www.rockler.com/tech/RTD10311373AA.pdf). It's basically the same jig with a pretty good description of where to start your settings.

[Matthew Hills]

Looks similar to the basic Porter Cable jigs.
Their manuals are quite good. You can see some videos and get the manuals at:
http://www.portercable.com/jigs/dovetail/

Also, probably worth reading the reviews on the Harbor Freight site -- some users share what they did to get things to work well:
http://www.harborfreight.com/dovetail-machine-34102.html

Matt

[cal lidderdale]

I bought a similar, generic dovetail jig a few years ago. I had good luck by using the older Rockler jig manual (http://www.rockler.com/tech/RTD10311373AA.pdf). It's basically the same jig with a pretty good description of where to start your settings.

Thanks Dave - I had seen that manual page before but re-read it - see, spot, run, mode. And I just made a OffsetDovetail about 98% perfect. From reading it I picked up a couple of things that hadn't registered before: like the height of the bit is the depth you want PLUS the 1/4" thickness of the guide - duh - so 3/4 board, blind dt at say 50% = 3/8 + 2/8 = 5/8" - "click!". The glue is setting as I type this. The offset was by accident because I forgot to set the back fence $@#!@#! - hmmm? Oh. Well ow'bout that :-D.

As for using the jig as a door stop - SSA doesn't allow me to drop $200-$600 for a jig and as long as it works and I have the skill - from what I can see it's going to do a right fine job. The only complaint/problem I've found is the virt-stops extend a hair too high and in my second try I over shot and my bit clipped it - that end of my shop is now permanently BLUE! (layer #746). My hacksaw got a minor workout and no-more-problem.

Film at 11

[John McClanahan]

The Porter Cable jig is a much better quality tool than the Harbor Freight one. That includes the HF clones, like the one sold by Rockler.

John

[Jim Rimmer]

Watch the classifieds here (you'll need to kick in the $6 contribution) or check ebay for the Leigh and Keller Jigs. Folks upgrade to bigger and newer or give up on jigs and go to hand cut dts. Sometimes you can get a bargain. I got an older Leigh when the guy upgraded to a newer, longer version.