chainsaw sharpening mistakes

[allen thunem]

Ok might not be the best place for this one but I'm gonna give it a shot.
Bought a h.f electric chainsaw sharpener. Used it a couple times and seemed to work fine.
Went to our clubs wood yard yesterday to gather some turning stock with what I thought were freshly sharpened chains. (HA)
Proceded to attempt to cut some stuff and much to my chagrin all four freshly sharpened chains were useless. Wouldn't cut hot butter.
I came home and ground the rakers down on one chain and resharpened it without any better results thinking this was the problem.


Side note on the chains, all are fairly new and all are the more aggressive pro chains with the smallish rakers, not the anti kick back type sold at h.d or lowes. My question is what am i doing wrong.
followed the instructions regarding setting the correct angle for the chain. My only thought is am i grinding too deep not deep enough? Do I need to go back and hand file after I grind?
Am I putting to fine and edge on the cutters thus causing the edge to roll?


Is the wheel on the grinder an incorrect size for the chain i have????
According to h.f this wheel is supposed to work for multiple chains pitch and size.
Tell me your methods and experiences if you have one of these rigs please.
Any help is appreciated.

[Ted Calver]

First make sure they are running in the right direction:)

[John M. Smith]

You beat me to it Ted. LOL. Been there, done that.

[Jason Roehl]

I have an electric HF chain saw sharpener (uses the thin, pink grinder wheels). The only time I've had problems with it was when a friend got into some concrete with a chain, and I had to take off a LOT of each tooth to get it sharp--I got the teeth too hot taking off that much (~1/8"), which rendered the chain useless (a chain for a 32" bar, too...).

Jigs and repeatability are your friends. With chainsaws, I find it best to stop cutting and resharpen as soon as I notice even a slight decline in performance. To keep going rounds off the teeth excessively, making sharpening much more difficult and time-consuming, and you spend more of your overall cutting time with reduced performance (=less efficient).

Those sharpening grinders work best if you just barely kiss the tooth with the wheel, and I lower the wheel into each tooth about 3 times, trying to not put any pressure side-to-side on the grinder head (same way I use a miter saw--neutral pressure, if you will).

You also need to know the depth-of-cut for your particular saw and chain combo (mine is 0.025") and get a file gauge for the rakers. You can then use that gauge to set up the depth stop for the grinder (after sharpening the teeth) to quickly grind off the rakers to the appropriate depth (be careful to not hit the teeth!).

[Josh Bowman]

Allen,
I own the older cheapo HF sharpener ($29.95 on sale) and have had really good results. I have to adjust it so it just kisses all the ground face, since it will chop off more tooth than needed and is limited in it adjustment. I have only used the anti kickback type chains, but can't see how that would affect the sharpening since my rakes would have to be adjusted where yours wouldn't. I have to default to Ted's comment. Or maybe you're not grinding enough off. Use care not to go too deep and reduce the gullet. I feel hand filing does a better job, but this electric one is easy, that's why I use it.
Also since the rachet mech. is kind of sloppy, I hold the chain back against it while I cut, this keeps the length of cut the same.

[Reed Gray]

I only hand sharpen, but you could check your teeth on the chain, to feel if they are sharp. With a hand file, there is always a tiny burr on top of the tooth if it is sharp. The inside of the cutter should be shiny as well, which indicates a sharp surface, or even use a Sharpie type pen to mark a tooth, so you can see how much you are getting ground.

robo hippy

[Roger Chandler]

I have used the HF chainsaw sharpener for several years.......super results...........I purchased a professional model early this year.......one of the same ones like the dealer uses for sharpening..........about the same results. You are evidently not doing something correctly..........you should be cutting wood like butter with a freshly sharpened chain.

I also use the pro chains [oregon] and I would highly recommend the HF chainsaw sharpener ........the best $29.95 I ever spent on a tool!

[Jerry Marcantel]

It's starting to look like you need to install your chains properly....
I did have a problem once with my chains not being the proper ones for the saw. That thing that looks like an inverted shark fin that engages the sprocket was too thin for my bar, and the teet leaned to one side and refused to cut. Now, it's fine after getting the right chain....... Jerry (in Tucson)

[allen thunem]

jerry
define properly installed chains
re: cutter in the right direction?
i am stupid but i do have my shining moments
chain is the proper chain for the bar per oregons'
specs.





It's starting to look like you need to install your chains properly....
I did have a problem once with my chains not being the proper ones for the saw. That thing that looks like an inverted shark fin that engages the sprocket was too thin for my bar, and the teet leaned to one side and refused to cut. Now, it's fine after getting the right chain....... Jerry (in Tucson)

[Harry Robinette]

I just bought this sharpener last week or week before. What I've found is the when I'm finished the top of the tooth is sharp but only the very top of the tooth.The side that connects to the tooth and the bottom of the tooth are still dull. Had to do some adjusting to get it to sharpen the whole tooth.

[allen thunem]

harry what adjustments did you make? if you could share it would help

[john taliaferro]

Allen if you could post a top view and side view close up of the chain i can tell you why it wont cut . Aurbor site go to milling, go to stickes , and Bob posted the best info i have found on sharpening saw chain .

[Harry Robinette]

Allen I had to adjust the down stop, the brake cable,the chain stop and the rollers to get mine to cut at the right angle the head can't be adjusted on the one I got but by adjusting everything else I got it to work rather nicely. The chain rack also has to be adjusted cause the deg's on it don't match any chain I have. Also which ever way you have the chain rack well change the direction the chain goes into the rack.
I just started playing with the different parts look at the angle the grinding wheel is on and adjust things to it.

[allen thunem]

Allen if you could post a top view and side view close up of the chain i can tell you why it wont cut . Aurbor site go to milling, go to stickes , and Bob posted the best info i have found on sharpening saw chain .
John can you elaborate bit more about what site you are referring to?? possilby put a link in your next post?
Not sure what "aurbor site" is

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Did you blue your teeth? Those sharpeners should be set so they take off the smallest amount of metal. It does not take a lot to overheat the teeth and turn them blue.

Post a pic of the link. Get 2 of them in the pic so we can see both sides.

[Steve Busey]

Not sure what "aurbor site" is

Try arboristsite dot com

[john taliaferro]

Allen , i dont like putting links in and i spelled it wrong Arboristsite.com sorry

[allen thunem]

Ok after doing some further research I came across an item referring to chisel and semi chisel chains.
I am running a .325 x .58 guage semi chisel pro chain on an 18 inch bar.

took the bar to a shop and inquired about whether he though the bar might be worn.
turns out it was he slotted a .63 gauge chain into a .58 gauge bar. guess it was worn.
that explains the curved cuts. Now im wondering if there is a different method of sharpening semi chisel chains compared to full chisel?
anyone have some thoughts?

[Bernie May]

Pictures would really help. One of the chain on the saw. One a close up side view of the chain off the saw.

[Jerry Marcantel]

Allen, if you get your Oregon chains in a box, the back side of the box should give you detailed instructions on how to sharpen 8 different types of chain. These instructions are for using a file, but I'm sure the maker of your grinder took that into consideration when they made your grinder.
You questioned the difference between semi chisel and a full chisel. The chart on the box has the semi chisel specs, but doesn't list a full chisel unless it's actually a Round Ground or Chamfer chisel. The file sizes vary from 3/16" and 7/32" depending on chain model. The distance from top of chain to raker is .025". The horizontal angle at the bar is 10°. The grind angle on the tooth? is 25°.
The The semi chisel uses a 7/32" file, has .025" raker grind, 90° horizontal, and 35°chisel angle.
The Chamfer chisels are, 5/32" file, 90° horizontal, 30° chisel angle... The three chains also have another ° that ranges from 60°, 85°, and 80° respectively.The best I can call this angels location is the gullet. Does this help????
I can send you a picture if you need one, but the chart should be availible.
My earlier comment was not a reference to you being stupid, but more like expereincing a senior moment, even though you might not be a senior. I put an ad in the local newspaper once for an hiring an additional employee. When he got there, he brought this beautiful box he once made. Everything was perfect on it, but when I asked him to cut a piece of wood for me, he was at the outfeed end of my saw looking for the switch... He was engaged in the midst of a senior moment right then and there. We all do it........ Jerry (in Tucson)

[Kyle Iwamoto]

The horizontal angle at the bar is 10°.

Which way do you tilt the chain? I've not figured this one out. Chipper away from center or into center? As a guess I would imagine away from center, but most times I guess wrong.

[Jerry Marcantel]

Here is the chart. It took me a couple hours to grasp the objects that look like 7's or question marks are actually the profile if the chippers/teeth?.. Duh!!! I hope it enlarges.............. Jerry (in Tucson)
245009

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Thanks for the pic!