Questions on machining phenolic

[Alan Bienlein]

About 9 months ago a came across a piece of 1/2" x 61" x 81" piece of phenolic along with a 3/4" piece that I used for the top of my out feed table on the table saw.

I had to trim the 3/4" piece in width to clean it up and it was a bear to cut and machine. I thought you could just cut and router it similar to a piece of wood.

Do I need to get a specialized blade for cutting this on my table saw?

What about router bits?
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[Carl Beckett]

There are all types of phenolic, with different fillers. Paper. Linen. Fiberglass. Lots of formaldehyde based resins and also some epoxy based. Can you get a closeup shot of the edge. We might be able to tell the filler but that looks like pretty dense stuff.

[Phil Thien]

There are a number of different types, but they all machine w/ carbide-tipped blades. That said, the stuff IS hard and even when cutting 1/4" stuff (the thickest I've cut) I've reduced my feed rate.

[Bruce Page]

It’s hard to be sure from the pics but it looks like G10 glass phenolic. G10, especially when thick like that can be a challenge. It is exceptionally abrasive, even to carbide. I hated to machine parts out of the stuff.

[Carl Beckett]

It’s hard to be sure from the pics but it looks like G10 glass phenolic. G10, especially when thick like that can be a challenge. It is exceptionally abrasive, even to carbide. I hated to machine parts out of the stuff.The g10 I have used has always been greenish in color. Don't know if that's true of all g10. But make sure you have good dust collection. ( not only the resin, but tiny pieces of fiberglass blowing around isn't good to suck in.....)Carbide. If g10 likely slow the feed rate and light passes. Definitely more work than cutting wood.

[ian maybury]

The relatively typical fabric reinforced version we get over here (Tufnol Whale brand: http://www.tufnol.com/tufnol/default.asp?id=34) works just fine with a router, or on the table saw - I've just been making parts for a set of parallel bars for the table saw from it.

Phenolic itself machines easily and well with most woodworking power tools - albeit that reduced depths of cut are advisable compared to wood. It's basically the filler/reinforcement (especially if glass or other abrasive materials) that depending on the type can be hard on tools, or need very sharp cutting edges to achieve clean cuts.

You see a lot of caution about the dust, but again it's the filler that tends to makes the difference. Glass for example isn't the thing to breathe. On it's own phenolic is similar to wood dust - don't breathe it, but not a very high risk...

ian

[Bruce Page]

The g10 I have used has always been greenish in color. Don't know if that's true of all g10. But make sure you have good dust collection. ( not only the resin, but tiny pieces of fiberglass blowing around isn't good to suck in.....)Carbide. If g10 likely slow the feed rate and light passes. Definitely more work than cutting wood.

Carl, the G10 I have machined has always been greenish also. I was commenting on the edge picture, the density and color look very close to me. I’d have to see it wet to be surer. As far as the tan surface, that could be some type of veneer.

[Alan Bienlein]

Here are a couple more picturesof the edge. One with the flash and one without.
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The surface reminds of the surface texture of Nevamar brand laminate.
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And just for the sake of it I took a photo of the edge of the 3/4" phenolic I used on my out feed table. This was a real bugger to cut!
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[Phil Thien]

And just for the sake of it I took a photo of the edge of the 3/4" phenolic I used on my out feed table. This was a real bugger to cut!
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Oh, just cut this stuff the same way your cut that other stuff. :p

[Alan Bienlein]

Thanks to everyone that posted to help.

I took Phil's advice and and went and cut it after I installed a sharp blade in the table saw. Cut like butter!:D Aparently my other saw blade and router bit I used on the 3/4" material was sharp enough for wood but not cutting the phenolic.

[Carl Beckett]

Well - if its fiberglass filler its abrasive! (but it doesnt look like its fiberglass)

If its a linen its not as abrasive (and it doesnt look like a linen to me at least)

If its paper based its abrasive! It looks like paper based to me. Imagine a zillion layers of paper pressed and bonded together with a resin. Cutting paper is very abrasive, and will wear tools quickly.