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Randy Henry
10-30-2012, 5:02 PM
I getting ready to build my wife a built in buffet, and would like some suggestions. The unit will sit between walls that are relatively plum. The overall measurement is just under 8 ft. long, and it will be at counter height. I have done quite a few kitchen cabinet jobs that are similar to this, but there were no problems, as I could make the cabinets in different sections and install them that way, without destroying the already finished side walls. But, my wife wants this as one unit, built more like a piece of furniture, than a cabinet (no toe kick, etc), with a finished front lower trim/base. What is the best way to tackle this without destroying the walls trying to get it in? I don't really want to make it 1/4" short, then trim it out on the sides if I can help it, nor do I want to install the face frame after the cabinet is installed, due to drawers, etc., but at this juncture, I am all ears. And of course, one of the walls is just app. 3 inches deeper than the buffet will be, and the drywallers put on a lot of mud on the corner bead, making the corner measurement less. Thanks for any suggestions.

Carl Beckett
10-30-2012, 5:15 PM
I really couldn't advise going against the wishes of SWMBO..... But.I have a couple areas built in between walls like this. Both are made separately and then trimmed to fit the opening ( just went and checked). I figure it took some care to get a tight fit since as you say, the drywall corners are far from squareIf you are doing a big buffet, any chance to make it free standing? Thus way it could be taken with you if you ever move The pros here can give you some good ideas.. My first thought would have been to make a box similar to a traditional cabinet, then trim and install the face frame while in place ( and the counter top also has to be trimmed to fit!). Maybe make a good square template,then do more drywall work to get it to fit the template, then build the cabinet same as the template ( meaning, adjust the drywall not the cabinet)

Randy Henry
10-30-2012, 5:28 PM
Thanks Carl for the ideas. I had thought about making the carcass separate from the face frame, and installing the face frame after the carcass is installed, but doing so would be a nightmare fitting drawers, runners, door alignment, etc....I've been putting this project on the back burner for years, but after her letting me equip my shop nicely over the years (and build a nice stand alone shop!), I gotta make this work, possibly for future growth:).

Jack Wilson50
10-30-2012, 5:40 PM
Randy:

What about making is short by a couple a inches, then scribe two filler strips. Then you could cut the top to fit and or scribe it to fit. I think it would still have a furniture look; but be built in.

jack

Jeff Duncan
10-30-2012, 5:49 PM
If it has to fit inside of the opening,

option 1) design and build the unit to slightly over the size of the opening leaving a bit of scribe on both ends of the face frame. Use some scrap like 1/4" plywood and make a template of the front of the opening. Have one end of the template scribed to one wall and then tape it in place. Then swing the other end in and shave until it just slides in place. You'll need to have the sides of the cabinet shorter than the front of the cabinet in order for it to work....but that's probably pretty obvious. Then use the template to get the front of your cabinet scribed and ready for install. You'll also have to attach the top after the cabinet is installed so that it too gets scribed in place. The depth of the cabinet doesn't matter as it will be hidden by the top;) You'll still have a tiny gap even if done well of maybe 1/32" or so that a little caulking and wall color touch up will take care of, but it should be pretty clean. Or you can just make it really tight and squeeze it into place....I've done it this way in a pinch and just touched up the scrap marks afterward;)

Option 2 would be to design the unit with a scribe molding on both sides. I've done this with fluted pilasters that get scribed on and attached with pins that are easily filled with color sticks after the fact.

Options 3 would be to have the cabinet be wider and come out from the opening so the scribe is on the back of the face frame. Different look altogether, but much easier to scribe into place!

good luck,
JeffD

Randy Henry
10-30-2012, 6:15 PM
Jeff, I have thought about your option 2, I am assuming the pilasters are proud of the face frame? The doors will have a 1/2 overlay, so just sitting here thinking, I would probably make the face frame width 1/4" narrower, using 3" wide stiles on the ends of the face frame, then tacking on the pilasters and bottom base. After thinking about it more, I could make some plinth blocks for the top and bottom, to make it appear they were done that way in the shop, instead of a way to hide the install.

The top, she has decided it will be marble. I know, don't say it-I'm thinking it too:eek:. After the top is on, then 2 side uppers get made, with a beveled mirror in between them, so the plan goes.

Jeff Duncan
10-30-2012, 6:38 PM
IMO....and just my opinion, a built-in piece should have some sort of pilasters or decorative ends if its to look like a custom piece.....unless of course it's a modern piece. If you just have doors right up to the walls it inevitably looks like box store cabinetry:( Spend time refining your design and come up with a look that works best for you!

good luck,
JeffD

John TenEyck
10-30-2012, 7:17 PM
Take a look at FWW #229. There is a good article in there of how to build for and install built-in cabinets. Should be quite helpful to your planning/install.

John

Mel Fulks
10-30-2012, 7:35 PM
A number of good ideas above . I don't think there is much that can be added without seeing a drawing and knowing what style you like . It should definitely look like furniture and not more kitchen stuff. If the space allows the front projecting in front of the wall could be a great look. To fit the top after installing the cabinet you can use the old ship building trick of a oddly shaped pointer and transfer reference points. Someone else can explain it faster than I or refer you to a book. You can install the top yourself and most likely will have to,or you won't like the result.