If you had $400.00.......

[John Fleming]

If you had a budget of $400.00 dollars and had no hand planes what would you buy? To keep it simple, only new and only hand planes. I only have power tools ( I know) but want to add hand tools to my shop.
I do have chisels and a few other items. I want to start with just a couple of planes to really get to know how to use them and keep them set up and sharp. Thanks.

[jason thigpen]

Lee Valley Low Angle Jack with a few different blades. As far as new planes go, this will give you quite a bit of versatility.

[lowell holmes]

I would add the apron plane to that list. Mine stays in my apron pocket.

[Matthew N. Masail]

Low angle block plane + a smothing plane + jack/jointer plane

for my first plane I started with this one http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2021170/29724/woodriver-3-bench-hand-plane-v3.aspx it works wonderfully and I don't know what I would have done without it. compliment it with a no.5/6 and you have a good general working system.

I second the recommendation for the Lee Valley apron plane as your low angle block

I build the rest of my planes mayself and if you have patiance to build a few and learn how they work then 400$ can go a looonnnggg way. I'm now using wooden screw caps to secure blades
so you don't even have to fiddle with a fitting a wedge or working brass, they are as good as anything I've tried.

[Brian Ashton]

I think Lee Valley is the most bang for the buck. To me cheap chinese knock off crap isn't an option but your mileage may vary... So the next thing to determine is what you're work entails. If all you plan to do is knock a few corners off stuff or touch up things then a low angle block will work well @ ~$150. If you want to save a bit more you can get an apron plane for ~$90 and it will do all you want it to do, just not quite as good as the low angle block. If you plan to take it a bit further and want to plane a few things flat(ish) then I'd add a low angle smooth @ ~$200. If I wanted to go a bit further and actually use a plane to flatted edges and faces of boards and such then I'd go with a low angle jack @ ~$225 instead of the smoother. The more exotic blades are nice but not necessary so you can save a bit by going with A2 or O1. You could add a couple different blades with different angles but that's another thing that's not necessary unless you're tackling lots of different types of (often difficult grained) woods.

[Zach Dillinger]

It just depends on what exactly you want to do with them. If you'd like to prep stock by hand at some point, then you need a fore / jack and a try plane. If you just want to clean up machine work, then a smooth plane / block plane will be your friend (I almost never use a block plane, by the way, they are far from necessary). If you just want to tweak your machine cut joints, a shoulder plane / router plane / rabbet block plane might be a good idea.

If you just want some basic exposure to planes, buy a jack plane. Easy to tune, easy to use. If you want to follow the trend, one of the low angle ones is ok. If you don't care about fads, a normal #5 sized plane from any reputable maker will be good. This includes LN, LV, ECE, Clifton and, yes, vintage Stanley or wood planes.

If you want a double-bang for the buck, consider the rabbet block plane from LN. It can be used as a normal block (adjustable mouth doesn't mean a whole lot, don't let anyone tell you otherwise), and can be used to clean up joinery.

And, for the record, $400 can buy a whole lot of nice wooden planes :)

[David Weaver]

Do you have sharpening stones? If you don't, and that needs to fit in the $400 budget, don't forget to consider them.

I don't have any suggestion on the planes other than to examine what you want to do with them first, and I think that would probably be to remove planer and joiner chatter marks, and perhaps remove any light tearout those two would leave. A smoother of any type would be fine.

If you work mostly softwoods, for me it would be just about anything, but you could consider a wooden plane. If you work mostly hardwoods, I would get a metal plane. I'd imagine we, as woodworkers, don't have nearly as nice of wood to work as early hand tool woodworkers had (when they used a lot of mahogany and pine).

[Zach Dillinger]

I use wooden planes on all woods, softwood, hardwoods, exotics. It really is just a personal choice, material is really, well, immaterial, for what type of plane you choose. I will grant you that a metal plane might be easier to begin with, given the adjustments, but I suspect you'll quickly outgrow that crutch.

[David Weaver]

It's probably easier to pick one or the other and stick with it. But I can say for sure I really don't at all like working anything on hard maple (or beech) with a beech plane, or any wooden plane for that matter. It makes less difference if one is just smoothing, and it's a good wood to avoid for hand toolers, but a heavier plane works on stuff like maple and curly cherry better than does a wooden plane. If one has an unlimited budget, an 18" panel plane glides through that stuff, but an 18" panel plane would be murder to work on soft poplar, it would feel like it was attached to the wood via velcro.

Which is my issue with metal planes on some softwoods. You can wax them all you want, but soft poplar just pulls the wax right off of the soles like an eraser.

I don't think that it's universal that experienced users will forgo a plane with adjustment, though, either. It may be just as likely that an experienced user would forgo everything except simple cheap metal bench planes, which cost about as much as dirt and work anything that can be planed to a very fine surface. I certainly would give them up last of everything that I have, but I work less wood than most people and in general when I do the level of figure in it is probably higher.

[Zach Dillinger]

I don't disagree with you David. I'm not trying to get into anything here, but my wooden planes work figured cherry and hard maple just fine. Better is subjective, and I'd be happy to let anyone compare my planes with any other, LN / LV included. I'd hate for a new user to think they need to use a metal plane, or that they are somehow missing out on something, if they choose a wooden plane. It is six of one, half dozen of the other in my experience. A sharp, thick iron (also a benefit of wooden planes for working hard stock, the iron is much better) is more important than the jig used to hold it. Mr. Fleming may prefer wood planes; I don't want anyone to discourage him from trying them based on a subjective category that may not ring true for him. That's all.

I would give up every tool I have before I gave up my Mathieson fore or my Scioto try plane. Both meet or exceed every other plane, for their respective jobs regardless of wood choice, that I have ever tried. You can pry them from my cold, dead fingers :) My Stanleys, take 'em, I don't need 'em.

I've said it many times before, usually in regards to the choice between power tools vs. hand tools: There is only one wrong way to work wood, and that's to not work wood at all.

On a side note, what wood do you work most often? I'd love to see some of your work!

EDIT: So I missed the part about "only new" in the original post. Unless you get really lucky, $400 isn't going to buy you much in the way of new wooden planes. But my points are still valid. It's worth trying one!

[Ron Kellison]

LV Jack, A2 Blade: $225
LV Apron Plane: $85
LV MK. II Honing Guide: $66.50
Basic Waterstone Set: $60

A bit more than $400 but it would be a good start.

[paul cottingham]

LV Jack, A2 Blade: $225
LV Apron Plane: $85
LV MK. II Honing Guide: $66.50
Basic Waterstone Set: $60

A bit more than $400 but it would be a good start.
+1 You could build an awful lot of nice stuff with this setup. I would eventually add the two higher angle blade, to boot. The other nice thing is that it will last long enough that you will be able to give it to your grandchildren, too.

[Prashun Patel]

I'd get a low angle block plane (either a LV Apron, LN102 or the adjustables from LV or LN. You have to figure out what's right for your hand).
and spend the rest on proper sharpening equipment.

For me that's a Veritas MKII and a Worksharp.

If you already have reliable sharpening stuff, then I'd get the LV LA Jack next. These two planes do 99.9% of my work. Skip the extra blades until/if you get a low angle smoother.

[Pinwu Xu]

I would add the apron plane to that list. Mine stays in my apron pocket.

i.e., the LN 102 or 103 (the low-angle variation)

[Carl Beckett]

LV Jack, A2 Blade: $225
LV Apron Plane: $85
LV MK. II Honing Guide: $66.50
Basic Waterstone Set: $60

A bit more than $400 but it would be a good start.

Pretty good recommendation.

If you didnt want to start with stones for sharpening, you might be able to get by with plate glass and sandpaper as a start.

[Jim Matthews]

The block plane is a rarely used item in my shop.

I like my "Jack" plane - an HNT Gordon wood body plane for most everything, including endgrain.
http://www.hntgordon.com.au/prodcatajkit.htm

Paul Sellers does the bulk of his handplaning with a number 4.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQyjLV92224

Given that I went through the same progression (buying the cheapest plane for starters)
I can say that the really small and really large handplanes are not the one I reach for.

If you're looking for a domestic product, I like the LN or LV low angle jack, with multiple blades.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=33799

[David Weaver]

I'd love to see some of your work!




Lately I'd love to see some of my own work! Kid and work have kept me out of the shop (at least from doing what I want), and the wife feels like I should make new kitchen cabinets, doors and all... plywood, router and thickness planer. Gross. Like George, if I only had time to build one thing, it would be tools and not furniture.

But the three woods I've worked most are maple, cherry and beech. Sometimes cocobolo and rosewood if I am building a plane, I have never dimensioned any exotics with machines because I don't trust them and all of my plane blanks are air dried turning blanks (i.e., if I do something dumb, I ruin 4 or 5 years of waiting). The only furniture wood I've used is cherry and curly soft maple. The cherry I get from the local hardwood dealer here is not very good, it's often curly and if it's not, it's inconsistent in grain direction. A panel plane takes it off in almost 1 hundredth wide shavings and leaves it mirror, though.

I leaned the same way you did with the only new condition, it's not something I would stick to if I were on a $400 budget, because metal or wood, $400 can you get a lifetime set of planes and something to sharpen them. It might even be enough to get a set of metal *and* wood planes. My long JTbrown jointer, a nice try plane (can't remember the name of the big NY maker, starts with C.... chapin?) and a jack plane were together less than $100.

Btw, I saw you had mentioned elsewhere that you were looking for a vintage panel plane. If you have the time, build it yourself. You will not find a vintage plane that will be able to perform as well as one you make fresh where you have control of all of the bedding variables and the size of the mouth, etc. It'll take a while, but you'll never regret it. I made an expensive kit, but I wish I would've made it from scratch. The ability to precisely hog wood and leave a good fresh tearout-free and dead flat surface is uncanny. If you bought a vintage plane that didn't perform better than the planes you already have, it would be a costly shame.

[Zach Dillinger]

Bummer re: shop time. I know the feeling, no kid, but work kept me out of there for long periods of time. Thankfully I don't worry about that much any more.

Yup, metal or wood, $400 will buy a lifetime set if you don't hold the "new" condition paramount. I don't have much in my basic bench planes, even my favorites. Molding planes and my Old Street smoother... a bit more than $400 :) Perhaps add a zero...

I would love to make myself a panel plane, but I'm helpless with metal. I even took machine shop two years while in high school, but I have no talent for it. I have thought about a kit, but there again, no metal skills. So the only way I can get what I want is to buy one. I've been into infills lately, not sure why, but I'd like a panel to go with my new infill smoothing planes (bought two in the last little bit).

[george wilson]

We used wooden planes for decades in the museum,and you can buy plenty plus sharpening stuff for $400.00.

[Thom Edwards]

Personally, I enjoy forming my joinery with hand tools, so I went with the joinery planes. I spent my budget in Lee Valley's Specialty Planes and Shoulder Planes sections. My electrically driven jointer and planer handle most milling for me, so I didn't focus too much on the jack, fore, try, jointer, etc dimensioning hand planes. I then added on a couple of well-tuned #4s from the bay along with a #5 and a #6 I already had. I found that spending $30 or a little more for a good vintage bench plane suited my interests just fine. Who knows, maybe I'll "upgrade" my bench planes one day...

[David Weaver]

I would love to make myself a panel plane, but I'm helpless with metal. I even took machine shop two years while in high school, but I have no talent for it. I have thought about a kit, but there again, no metal skills. So the only way I can get what I want is to buy one. I've been into infills lately, not sure why, but I'd like a panel to go with my new infill smoothing planes (bought two in the last little bit).

>>(bought two in the last little bit)<< oh my!! :)

The metal work is more physical than precision until the last couple of strokes, even then, peining is on your side - it's like hammering together play doh and filing off the excess. It's a bigger issue to lay out the pins and tails and mark them accurately with a scribe than it is to cut, file and pein them (i'd be glad to provide the layout on a spiers 18" panel plane). It was much easier (but more time consuming) to get a very nice working infill plane than it was to cut out a coffin smoother. Everything in making an infill is stacked in your favor.

I've never used a "store bought" infill, so I can't compare too much how they work to new style planes, but I have noticed that a lot of them (the vintage types) that I've looked at have recondition issues or just looseness in the parts that I worked so hard to get exact on mine (the mouth, the fit of the lever cap to the back of the iron, and the points where the iron touches the sole of the plane and the bed). It would seem (from experience with other planes) that's the difference between a plane that works well or really well vs. a plane that is almost impossible to use to less than perfection. A perfect fresh fit also makes everything adjust absolutely precisely when you tap the iron.

Tool outlay to make one is extremely minimal if you have a few files, a hacksaw and a vise to hold the metal. Probably $200-$300 in materials if you use tool steel and a commercial Iron.

[Zach Dillinger]

I didn't pay much for the infills, less than $210 for the pair. Got lucky.

That's interesting re: ease of construction. Making wooden planes has usually been easy for me, except for the time I tried to make a 30" jointer in hard maple. Mortising through that is no joke. Perhaps I'll try to cobble together an infill over the winter, once my PW project is built and the article is written.

[Stew Hagerty]

If you had a budget of $400.00 dollars and had no hand planes what would you buy?

Stanley Sweetheart 162 Low Angle Jack Plane: $126
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-137...ley+sweetheart (http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-137-No-62-Angle-Plane/dp/B002B56CUY/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1351610509&sr=1-4&keywords=stanley+sweetheart)

Stanley Sweetheart #4 Smoothing Plane: $120
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-136...ley+sweetheart (http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-136-Bailey-Smoothing-Bench/dp/B002B56CUO/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1351610785&sr=1-3&keywords=stanley+sweetheart)

Stanley #92 Shoulder/Chisel Plane: $72
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-140...ley+sweetheart (http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-140-No-92-Shoulder-Chisel/dp/B002B56CVS/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1351610694&sr=1-2&keywords=stanley+sweetheart)

Stanley 62 1/2 Low-Angle Block Plane: $57
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-139...ley+sweetheart (http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-139-Bailey-No-60-1-Angle/dp/B002B56CVI/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1351610829&sr=1-1&keywords=stanley+sweetheart)

Grand Total $375

I have all of these and they work very well. These are not the lower quality English made replicas of the vintage tools. They are newly engineered versions with 1/8" A-2 steel blades and heavy, well machined bodies. While maybe not quite to the guality of Lee Valley or Lie Nielsen, they are certainly high quality planes, plus you can get a whole set well within your $400 budget.

[Jim Koepke]

If you had a budget of $400.00 dollars and had no hand planes what would you buy? To keep it simple, only new and only hand planes. I only have power tools ( I know) but want to add hand tools to my shop.
I do have chisels and a few other items. I want to start with just a couple of planes to really get to know how to use them and keep them set up and sharp. Thanks.

John,

This kind of question always brings a lot of responses. The responders often stray widely from the parameters of the question.

In my case, my usual suggestion is to get more bang for the buck with used planes. Though, starting with one new plane to have a starting point is a good way for many to start.

I am not sure if by "only hand planes" you mean none of the specialty planes or not even block planes.

The most important aspect is your needs. If you are just cleaning up after power tools, it also depends on your assortment of power tools. If you have a jointer and planer, then a smoother like a #3, 4 or 4-1/2 may be all you need. Smoothers are good at creating the final surface. Their short length makes them impractical for creating a trued edge or surface due to their tendency to follow every rise or dip on the work.

I do not have a planer or jointer. When long pieces come off of my band saw, the saw marks usually get removed with a #6 for most work.

I usually suggest going to one of the Lie-Nielsen tool events to give these a try, but I do not see any near you soon.

Here is something I wrote a couple of years ago. Of course I have learned a lot since then.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?148076-Getting-Started-With-Hand-Planes

If you do not have a sharpening set up, that is another area of consideration no matter what plane(s) you buy.

Other than the smoother recommendation above, my other suggestion would be a low angle block plane. For most work, the LV or LN low angle block planes along the #60-1/2.

The Lie-Nielsen is listed here:

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1216

Some of the LVs are listed here:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=48942&cat=1,41182

The root page of LV planes is here:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1&p=41182

If you are lucky, there may be another member who lives close to you who is willing to let you test drive their selection of planes.

jtk

[David Barbee]

This is a loaded question. If you buy a hand plane and don't have the skills/equipment to sparpen it, then it's just a paperweight. Additionally, if you don't have a proper (very sturdy, flat sureface, and a vice of some sort would be nice) bench then you are equally disadvantaged. Not to mention what you hope to achieve with this tool. Without more information any recommendations are pretty useless.

[James Owen]

I would consider either a Lie Nielsen #5-1/2 ($375) or #6 ($375), and either a #60-1/2 ($165) or the #102 ($115). The #60-1/2 will break the $400 limit by about $40; the #102 will keep you just under $400.

Both the #5-1/2 and the #6 make good jack/fore planes, short jointers, and long smoothers (a la panel plane).
A low angle block plane is very useful for all sorts of jobs. The adjustable mouth on the #60-1/2 makes it easier to use on more challenging grained woods, but the #102 will work fine, as well.

[glenn bradley]

Speaking as another mostly tailed woodworker; LV apron plane and a Low angle Jack with a 25*, 38* and 50* will handle many tasks. I have other planes; jointer, smoother, blocks, etc. but, If I could only keep 2, these would be them. If I could only keep one it would be the LA block with the optional grips. This was my only plane for quite some time.

[Ryan Baker]

Given the parameters of the original question, I would definitely say the LV low-angle jack and the LN 60 1/2 block plane, or something similar. Those will handle most of your general planing needs, and you can add other planes to the collection as you figure out what specialty items you need. For the basic planes, you should get some top quality items.

Of course there are tons of other (and less expensive) choices if the rules of the question change.

I also agree completely that you need to have some decent waterstones for sharpening. If you don't already have that (or have other budget), be sure to save some money for that first.

[John Fleming]

Thanks everyone for all the great responses. I knew I would miss some parameter . I do mostly all my furniture work in solid woods, and all of that in hardwoods. I would like to use the hand plane or planes to shave tenons, take a little off on a panel, that sort of thing. I got a much bigger response than expected and have been given plenty of options. Thanks.

[paul cottingham]

Thanks everyone for all the great responses. I knew I would miss some parameter . I do mostly all my furniture work in solid woods, and all of that in hardwoods. I would like to use the hand plane or planes to shave tenons, take a little off on a panel, that sort of thing. I got a much bigger response than expected and have been given plenty of options. Thanks.

The I would make sure I looked at the large shoulder plane. Can't beat it for trimming tenons and joinery.

[Chris Griggs]

I would like to use the hand plane or planes to shave tenons, take a little off on a panel, that sort of thing. I got a much bigger response than expected and have been given plenty of options. Thanks.

I agree with a Paul that a large shoulder plane could be a very good option. A rabbeting block plane would also be very good since in addition to trimming tenons and rabbets it will be handy for all sorts of general trimming tasks. My favorite tools for tenon cheeks is a router plane - its also good for tuning rabbets and dados and any sort of recessed work you come across.

In addition to a joinery plane I would get one bench plane. The LV or LN LA jack is a good option. If nothing else you'll find it worth its weight in gold when you build a shooting board. Really though any size bench plane will be useful if you have none. A smaller one (e.g. no. 4ish) will be better if you want to smooth out work coming of the planer. A larger (e.g. 5, 6, or 7) if you want to do some jointing or flattening.

Maybe start out by just buying one plane - say a rabbet block plane, and something to keep it sharp if you don't already have it. You'll have some money left over to put towards the next plane, and using the first plane will be very helpful in deciding what that next plane should be.

(P.S. It is very unlikely I would take my own advice here, I would most likely spend all $400 right away plus another $100.... do as I say not as I do.)

[paul cottingham]

(P.S. It is very unlikely I would take my own advice here, I would most likely spend all $400 right away plus another $100.... do as I say not as I do.)
Ain't that the truth!

[Josh Rudolph]

If you had a budget of $400.00 dollars and had no hand planes what would you buy? To keep it simple, only new and only hand planes. I only have power tools ( I know) but want to add hand tools to my shop.
I do have chisels and a few other items. I want to start with just a couple of planes to really get to know how to use them and keep them set up and sharp. Thanks.

John,

Since you have chisels and a few other items, I think it is safe for everyone to assume you have a sharpening setup.

You say you are wanting to start with a just a couple planes...this tells me you want a plane or planes that has the most versatility right now, but you will likely be adding to them in the future.

You also said...

I would like to use the hand plane or planes to shave tenons, take a little off on a panel, that sort of thing.

To shave a little off of a tenon, I am assuming you are referring to the face of the tenon all the way down to the shoulder. In that case, you narrowed your choices down to a shoulder plane or a rabbet plane.

So I would look at the LV Skew Block plane. This will allow you to trim tenons both on the face and end grain. It can be used as a standard block plan also. http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=65373&cat=1,41182,41192&ap=1

My second plane to look at it would be a good all around plane that could be used for smoothing and shooting. This would point me towards the LV Low Angle Jack. http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=49708&cat=1,41182,48944

Unfortunately this puts you $40 over your budget and then you still have shipping. The requirement of needing to shave tenons tends to push you to a specialty plane which have specialty pricing.

Though you could forgo the block plane and get a shoulder plane. http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=63847&cat=1,41182,41192&ap=1 which gets you within your $400, but I don't think a small shoulder plane is ideal for your situation. I do think my first 2 recommendations are ideal, just over budget. If you could only get one, I would get the skew block plane.

Josh

[Josh Rudolph]

A rabbeting block plane would also be very good since in addition to trimming tenons and rabbets it will be handy for all sorts of general trimming tasks.

Maybe start out by just buying one plane - say a rabbet block plane.

Didn't see Chris' post until after I posted mine...I concur with him about the rabbet block plane with a bench plane coming secondary.

[Stew Hagerty]

If you had a budget of $400.00 dollars and had no hand planes what would you buy? To keep it simple, only new and only hand planes.

OK, in my previous post I talked about how you could get an entire starter set of handplanes in the Stanley Sweetheart series for less than your $400 budget.

Another choice would be the ECE Primus line of handplanes. German made Woodies, most models are in the European style with the curved handle forward and a molded spot behind the blade for your other hand. Because of the curvature of the forward handle, they are made in right and left handed models.

These are high quality, well respected planes that rate right up there with some of the finest available. I bought my first one about a year ago, and now it is my go-to Smoother. I also have one of their Jack planes, the large Jointer, a Rabbit, and their router plane. The handle forward design is extremely comfortable, and their unique adjustment mechanism is very precise.

I would highly recommend everyone to give one of these wonderful planes a test drive. The best place I have found for these is at Adria Hand Tools. For some reason, they are far less expensive at Adria than they are anyplace else, plus Adria has excellent customer service and free shipping with your plane purchase. All-in-all an excellent value.

Their legendary 711 Improved Smoothing Plane: $195
The Beech & Hornbeam 704 Jack: $167
http://www.adriatools.com/ece/eceprimus.html

Beach & Hornbeam 101 Jointer: $166
9-S Rabbit with 30mm wide iron: $60
http://www.adriatools.com/ece/ecewedged.html