Router Jig

[Peter Blair]

I am in the process of designing/building a router jig primarily to use to add decorative details to the outside of bowls and or hollow forms.

I have been able to find a few ideas on the net and in some publications I have, but as yet I can't seem to find a way to control the depth of cut on an odd shaped piece, has anyone already got one built who would like to share?

I have seen some where the router is mounted vertically and a bearing is used for depth but some of the detail shapes, my reference would be to have the router mounted horizontally on the lathe centre line.

[Mike Golka]

Do you plan on controlling the routers movement by hand? If so a guide bushing type of arrangement where the bit protrudes past the end of the bushing by the desired depth of cut should work. The bushing is used as a reference to the work. These could be home made from wood or HDPE.

[Peter Blair]

Hey Mike. Not quite sure I understand your concept. Any chance you could sketch something or possibly provide a few more details of your idea?


Do you plan on controlling the routers movement by hand? If so a guide bushing type of arrangement where the bit protrudes past the end of the bushing by the desired depth of cut should work. The bushing is used as a reference to the work. These could be home made from wood or HDPE.

[Mike Golka]

The guide rides the work piece and the router support rides on a platform that keeps the bit centered on the work center line. Hope this helps.

[wes murphy]

Not sure I totally understand what your trying to do, but PSI has a Lathe Mounted Fluting Guide. The thiong can be found at http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LIXGA.html .

[Peter Blair]

Thanks Mike I understand now. I'm just not sure how I will attach the guide to the router but it sure looks like it will do what I want if I can get the guide thing figured out.


The guide rides the work piece and the router support rides on a platform that keeps the bit centered on the work center line. Hope this helps.

[Peter Blair]

Hi Wes and thanks for the link. It is described as doing pretty much what I want to do but I sure would like to see it in action. From the link it looks pretty much like the router set up I have already made and I can't quite figure out how the depth of cut can be controlled.


Not sure I totally understand what your trying to do, but PSI has a Lathe Mounted Fluting Guide. The thiong can be found at http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LIXGA.html .

[Jeffrey J Smith]

Harvey Fein does work similar to what you're describing. Saw him demo it at the AAW in San Jose. He uses a small trim router mounted on a wood block with a metal piece attached to control depth of cut. It's a pretty simple system. You can find it here - scroll down a bit and it will show up.in a setup with http://incising.net/online-store/

Here's a link to a YouTube vide that shows him in action.http://youtu.be/zgsYftV01-w

[Peter Blair]

Oh Man, Jeffery! The same router and set up I built but "why didn't I think of that" as far as the depth control goes.

Thanks for the links and information.


Harvey Fein does work similar to what you're describing. Saw him demo it at the AAW in San Jose. He uses a small trim router mounted on a wood block with a metal piece attached to control depth of cut. It's a pretty simple system. You can find it here - scroll down a bit and it will show up.in a setup with http://incising.net/online-store/

Here's a link to a YouTube vide that shows him in action.http://youtu.be/zgsYftV01-w

[Jeffrey J Smith]

Pete:

I just noticed that in the download section there's a pdf that shows his whole system and how it works on a sample project. He's spent years perfecting his approach, and his work is impeccable.

Jeff

[Peter Blair]

Hey Jeff. I too found the pdf files, thanks.

Pete:

I just noticed that in the download section there's a pdf that shows his whole system and how it works on a sample project. He's spent years perfecting his approach, and his work is impeccable.

Jeff

[Peter Blair]

Thanks to everyone who pitched in with suggestions, links ect.

Sorry about the bad phone photos . . . .

In the end I copied for the most part what Harvey Fein is doing at least for the router and 'follower'. The follower was a bear to make and I think I may be making a bigger one eventually which I'm not looking forward to.

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After I cobbled together this morning I took a close look at what Harvey does as far as his table support goes. I wanted a more central support that wouldn't need any other posts like Harvey uses so I took the support post that came with my Oneway Drill Guide and mounted a piece of plywood to it with a plastic fence on one side. I then discovered that the smaller of the two posts of the Oneway Easy Coring system would work and give me quite a lot of flexibility, so that is what I did.

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My table is not able to be angled but at this early stage I couldn't understand why I would want it to that anyway. I did have to drill/tap and install a lock handle in the Easy Core post to immobilize the table.

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I would still like to be able to do a little more free hand work as well and think that if the 'follower' is removed and a pointy base is installed in it's place I could then use it to follow patterns or shapes that could be clamped to the table. I haven't gotten around to making that yet but will as soon as I can.


I'll post photos when i get that done.

Now to find the right piece of wood to give it a try.

Comments or recommendations gladly accepted!!!

[Jeffrey J Smith]

Pete:
That looks like it'll work great. A question, though - I've been thinking of setting up a similar system on my Robust AB - but using the base support from the OneWay Bowl Steady for the table. Do you know what the difference in height is between the coring base and the steady rest base?

Jeff

[Peter Blair]

Not sure why but about half of my posts don't get published and I have to re-do them, this being one.

Jeff, yes I think this will do everything I would like to try and more.

Ok, so I am using a 16/40 Oneway and the banjo support is too tall to use as Harvey does, unless it is set down below the top of the support and as I said I wanted it as stable as possible.

My Oneway Coring set has two supports, approx:
- 1" dia. at 4 15/16 - this is the one I used cause the post from the drill jig is 1" dia. I did have to make a couple of plastic washers to get the router to the center line
- 1 1/4 dia at 4 3/8
Both measurements are approx and taken above the lathe ways.

Incidentally I made my follower from a chunk of 1/8 stainless set. It was not that easy to work but in the end worked out just fine. This was by far the most difficult to fabricate.

[Bill Hunt]

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Here's how I did mine. Makita trim router 116.00, Index wheel 89.00, four 21/2" exhaust pipe clamps 8.00. router bits already on hand. scrap plywood, T bolts.
Bill

[Peter Blair]

I really like it Bill especially your follower.
Thanks for sharing.



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Here's how I did mine. Makita trim router 116.00, Index wheel 89.00, four 21/2" exhaust pipe clamps 8.00. router bits already on hand. scrap plywood, T bolts.
Bill

[Peter Fabricius]

Great topic, I made one a few months ago. Built a platform for the Router to ride on with the cutting bit at the lathe centre line.
I put a T track in the platform and the router holder rides in the track.
This is not a freehand routing jig but I think it could be used to follow a template. It is a fluting jig and in the pictures you see a specialized cookie rolling pin being cut horizontally to make 12 squares on a rolling pin. These squares will be carved and the imprint is for fancy cookies. (my Son is the carver, NOT me).
The platform can slice in and out with knobs under the platform in T tracks at either side of the platform.
It worked really well to make the horizontal cuts you see in the pics.
Hope this helps.
Peter F.