Gluing false front to drawer

[paul cottingham]

I'm finishing a couple of drawers for an Arts and Crafts style server. i used through dovetails on the drawer and want to attach a "false front" to it. The veneer for the front is about 3/8" or 7/16" thick, so screws may be problematic. Are there any real downsides to using glue that i can't see? I will use hide glue so it is reversible, and to give me more time to get it right.
Thanks,

[Sam Murdoch]

Will you be attaching a pull through both fronts? If yes, I would let the pull do most of the holding but also carefully select screws, do a test on some scraps,
then add a few screws through from the drawer box to the front. I'm not inclined to think that the glued front would be a problem except during the initial set up time, but I would prefer to use screws or even a very good double stick thin mounting tape to augment the hold of the through pull.

[Paul Murphy]

I've seen pictures in posts on another WW forum where the builder of a beautiful reproduction secretary had built his drawers as you describe. I have not tried it myself, but if you plane both glue surfaces flat and clamp with full size cauls I think it will work well for you.

[paul cottingham]

I appreciate the thoughts. I am certainly not of that calibre, so I hope it wont be too tough. What I am really curious about is whether there is any technical reason not to do it. My drawer fronts desperately need hiding.

To say the least.

thanks,

[Kenneth Speed]

Hi Paul,

When you say, "The veneer for the front is about 3/8" or 7/16" thick..." do you mean the applied front is that thick? If that is the case I would recommend you do as Sam sauggested and use the drawer pulls to hold the fronts on the drawer boxes. You could also supplement them with some double sided tape.

Ken

[Howard Rosenberg]

Paul - I second Kenneth's knob and double-sided tape combo effort - I've done it that way for years and it's always held up just fine - HTH - Howard

[paul cottingham]

Hi Paul,

When you say, "The veneer for the front is about 3/8" or 7/16" thick..." do you mean the applied front is that thick? If that is the case I would recommend you do as Sam sauggested and use the drawer pulls to hold the fronts on the drawer boxes. You could also supplement them with some double sided tape.

Ken
You Know, you're right. Its not veneer, but a drawer front, and not a very thick one, at that.

[Rick Lizek]

http://www.deerwood.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=36
Drawer front adjuster screws and spacer washers if need be!

[Carl Beckett]

Not sure if this is relevant - but some time ago I made a batch of drawers for under my workbench. They were really crappily made (not sure thats a word, but its still an accurate description). I did plan on drawer fronts - but since there was such gaps (due to slides not being square, twist, etc) they didnt necessarily pull down against the drawer box.

I put construction adhesive on them and shimmed and weighted them. The construction adhesive filled the gap so that there was a broader contact across the entire interface. They particular pulls (home made wooden ones stapled on) didnt bolt all the way through. After several years there is no failure, with some pretty (very) high abuse.

[glenn bradley]

I'll third the drawer pull and double stick tape. Transfer film (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=56667&cat=1,110,43466) holds like glue. I would avoid the thick rubbery carpet tape variety some outfits sell to woodworkers. Yeah, that's just what I want in my double-stick tape; flexibility :D:D:D