Osborne EB-3

[Jim Manion]

Well, I have been struggling with whether to get a good crosscut sled or upgrade the miter for my table saw. The after market sleds are pretty slick, but for larger stock they get real pricey real fast.

Funds being limited, I wanted to get the most out of my dollar. I went with the Osborne EB-3. I can build a small sled for 45 degree straight cuts for the common straight miter cuts.

What really helped push me over the goal line is that Osborne is selling the EB-3 direct on their site for $109.

Question - any recommendations for a tool like the GRR-per when using the miter without a sled? Also, I was just wondering if anyone has rigged up the Osborne to a crosscut sled?

Thanks!

Jim

[John Fleming]

Jim, I just saw the Osborne on woodcraft . It's a nice miter gauge. I've never put a miter on a cross cut sled but I have used mine ( with a 3/4 " piece of plywood ) as a rip fence on my bandsaw. It works well because you can set the blade drift with it also. That being said I don't see why you couldn't do the same on a cross cut sled.

[Jim Manion]

John,

Thanks for the reply.

The Osborne looks to be very stable with the triangle design. Pretty inventive engineering. I just ordered it, so I don't know whether I would even need a sled with the miter.

Just wanted to get some information from the group here on how it works and possible ways to use it with a sled should I need it.

Jim

[John Fleming]

Jim, just to clarify , I do not use the miter gauge on a sled on the bandsaw. The miter gauge can slide but the table I made for it is stationary. If you attach it to a sled in a slot running parallel to your saw blade with a sacrificial fence attached to the miter gauge I think it would give you better control of angled cuts... Just my two cents.

[Myk Rian]

I've had the EB-3 for several years, and like it.
Put the tape that comes with it on the face so stock won't slide on you.

[Bill Huber]

I love mine and have used it for the last 5 years with no problem, it came spot on and it has not move.

When you get it, like Myk stated put the non-slip on the face, put it about 1/16" above the bottom. Once on take a real stiff brush and brush the non-slip surface to get off the loose bits.

Another thing to do is to put the stop, the part that move up out of the way on the other side of the block, this will make it more stable (see images below) You do lose a little length with the stop but it sure is better.

One think I learned was to put it on the back of the saw first and then slide it to the front, makes it a lot easier.

[keith micinski]

Thank you Bill, one of my two complaints with my Osbourne that I have had for 7 or 8 years is that there is just enough slop in the stop to matter. I am going to try this mod tomorrow.

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

Jim,

Below is a sled I made for my Incra. You should be able to make something similar for your Osborne.
This is actually an older one (no new photos). The newer one is a little larger and has t-track to secure the hold down.

243888

[Andrew Kertesz]

If you want a sled with a miter look at the Dubby sled.

[Prashun Patel]

Jim, nobody's yet addressed yr statement abt the GRRipper. The GRRRipper is for ripping; the miter sled/gauge is for cross cutting. The two should not be used together. Properly used, they are each effective at keeping the piece out of contact with the back of the blade.

[Jim Manion]

Man, some great advice and comments.

I am trying to get more out of the tools I have, and have discovered the wonders of the table saw with the proper upgrades and ingenuity. I also seem to be running my own rehab clinic for old tools long replaced by machines. My current project is an old Millers Falls Acme Langdon miter box. I am not a "restorer" mind you, but a rehaber - get them to the point where I can use them in my modest shop.

As for the mitre box, my first step is to find out what is missing. And finding the information on parts inventories is a bit of a challenge. I did come across a parts list and diagram I found on Ebay for a box that was for sale.

243906
243907

I did not have the $500 this particular item sold for, but the pictures were free. Didn't find these on any of the Millers Falls or Langdon sites. Too bad I can't get spare parts for those prices!

[Ryan Baker]

Bill has a good point with the trick of moving the stop. I did that to mine years ago, shortly after I got it. I didn't know anybody else made the same change.

[keith micinski]

I think moving the stop to the other side will help me out a lot a couple other complaints I have about the stop are that when you put the grip tape on it adds enough thickness to the face that the stop doesn't totally sit flush against the back. After all these years of using it it has gotten better but this also cause another problem. With the stop having a minute gap when you take the sharp point of a 45 and try to use it against the stop you can't do it. It slides behind the stop. Incra has a really nice solution on there stops in that they have a tab that actually recesses into the fence face so no matter how sharp something is it can't get behind it.