Separating Double-Stuck Parts

[John Hollaway]

Whether I used too much double-sided tape, or the amount I used was extra strong, I'm having trouble separating some parts. Since they are thin parts and therefore subject to breakage, and I don't care to simply pry them apart, thus blemishing the surfaces, I'm searching for another way. Perhaps heat to soften the adhesive??? Perhaps some solvent? What say you? Thanks

John Hollaway

[Kathy Marshall]

Acetone will disolve the adhesive (as long as the parts you're trying to separate won't be affected by it). Have you tried twisting them apart (like an oreo cookie)? That usually works for me, but my pieces usually aren't fragile.

[Charles Lent]

Heat has worked for me, but be careful not to scorch the wood if you use a heat gun. It's very slow and time consuming to get the heat into the joint without scorching the surface if the parts are thick. I found that a microwave is very effective if you have one large enough, as it will tend to heat from the center out. It should only take a minute or so for most parts this way. Either method requires experimenting to find the right temperature for what you are working on, and don't expect them to just fall apart. You will still need to do some prying, but it should be much easier. I have also thought about trying to freeze the parts, but haven't tried that yet. Theoretically, freezing should make the glue more brittle so the bond will fracture easily.

Charley

[Carl Beckett]

I might try freezing. It loosens the bond, and thermal expansion causes things to come undone.

Solvents - to me - sound like they would make a big mess.....

The windshield guys use piano wire. Work it in between and then back and forth and it cuts through.

[John Hollaway]

Thanks Kathy, Charles and Carl. All very plausible ideas, indeed. Each of the dozen tape-ups are of a size that will fit in both the microwave or the freezer. I'll try them out and let you know which works best. Again, thanks.

John

[Grant Wilkinson]

I've used a bit of heat and monofilament fishing line to good effect. No prying needed.

[Larry Gipson]

I've had luck using a putty knife, if there's room to get in inserted. The Shurtape Ive been using begins to separate, then continues to separate with moderate, continuous pressure. (Bend the putty knife a little.) After a couple of minutes, there's usually enough room to insert a piece of pegboard. Advancing (walking) the pegboard continues to separate the tape - just wait for the tearing to complete. On long boards, I've used several small pieces of pegboard to keep the tape separated as I advance the first piece. In a few minutes, the most problematic boards have come apart. This has worked on cypress (softwood) and oak without marring the surface. If you get impatient and use too much force, marring can occur.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Although I have no fool proof way to accomplish this task, I do have some thoughts.



Can you use a tape that is not as strong. I know that they have different strengths for double sided tape for turners, but there are numerous types of double sided tape.
Experiment with the tape to make it weaker... sprinkle a little sawdust on it, for example.
Use less tape
Use something other than tape (like Elmers School Glue and paper).


I considered the last item based on this post

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?189850-Temp-glue-up-guestion

Rich Engelhardt responded with a method I did not know, and neither did Bill Huber (Bill posed the initial question). Try a few test pieces and see if this works better for you.

[Barry Daniels]

I use a less aggressive solvent like mineral spirits. Apply it to the exposed edge and give a few minutes for it to work. Insert a putty knife and try to pry open the joint a little. Apply more solvent, wait, pry, and repeat. Take it slow and don't force it.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I've used just mono fishing line (40# test or better) to cut the tape into the 2 sticky parts. No heat needed. Just hold the items and pull the mono back and forth like a saw. Note that this does require 3 hands if your parts are small..... After seperating them you can roll up the sticky residue and toss it.

Good luck!

[Myk Rian]

I've had luck using a putty knife, if there's room to get in inserted.
That's what I use.

[John Hollaway]

Again, thanks very much to everyone who responded. I'll let you know how I make out.

John

[Bob Coleman]

In addition to piano wire and fishing line, you could also try dental floss. This is what people use who remove the badges from their vehicles.

[Keith Westfall]

In line with this, what is the best way to get the sticky part of the leftover tape off?

[Chuck Wintle]

Whether I used too much double-sided tape, or the amount I used was extra strong, I'm having trouble separating some parts. Since they are thin parts and therefore subject to breakage, and I don't care to simply pry them apart, thus blemishing the surfaces, I'm searching for another way. Perhaps heat to soften the adhesive??? Perhaps some solvent? What say you? Thanks

John Hollaway

John you did not mention what kind of material it is but here is my suggestion. Use a putty knife or similar and try to start is between the 2 pieces at the same time introduce some vegetable oil to also loosen the glue bond.

[Jim Tobias]

John,
I used to try and use double sided carpet tape and any other double sided tape I could find at local big box stores. I read on a thread here(don't remember exact one) about a double sided tape that is a crepe type paper with adhesive. I found it and have been using it for about a year and it works great. Holds firm but releases without too much pressure and leaves no residue. In fact, it's so easy to use, I find myself finding new ways to use it. Holding sandpaper onto a block/cork/soft back, etc.
The trick is also gradually finding out how much/or little is needed to hold items in place. Last night I was shaping small parts for a small box base. Using oscillating spindle sander to sand out arcs. It was on Brazilian Cherry(not an easy wood to sand) and very small pieces of the tape held the small strip (7" X 1/2" x 1/2") in place.
Link is below. No affiliation, just a very satisfied customer.

Jim

http://www.findtape.com/product192/JVCC-DCP-01-Double-Coated-Crepe-Paper-Tape.aspx?idx=2&tid=2&info=JVCC%2b%2bDCP-01

[Rich Engelhardt]

In line with this, what is the best way to get the sticky part of the leftover tape off?I've tried everything from rolling it off in little balls to WD40...
Nothing seems "perfect".
That's mostly why I went back to using Elmer's and a piece of paper - as Andrew mentioned above.
I was taught that method back in Shop 101 in 1966 & it still seems to work the best.

[Steve Peterson]

Woodline sells a clock kit that uses double sided tape to hold pieces together while they are cut using a pin router. They suggest 1 minute in the microwave to soften the tape adhesive. Then the pieces can be easily pried apart. Most of the residue can be rubbed off then cleaned up with acetone or lacquer thinner. The wood pieces are about 9" square by 3/4" thick. You may want to adjust the time depending on the size of your pieces.

Steve

[Bill Huber]

In line with this, what is the best way to get the sticky part of the leftover tape off?

The best way is to not get it on there to start with, IMHO you are using the wrong tape. I have tried 3 or 4 different tapes and had problems with the sticky stuff being left on the wood, I posted the question on the forum and was told you could clean it up with this or that or scrap it off but no one said use a different tape.

I found a tape that does not leave anything on the wood and this make it much easier to use then others, no clean up.

This is the only tape I use now and it comes right off and leaves nothing on the wood plus it holds very well.
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v447-7150/adhesives

[Bruce Page]

I used a lot of 2 sided tape (supervisor tape :D) back when I was a moldmaker. 40 lb monofilament line will cut through it fairly easily.

[jim gossage]

I use small pieces of tape, usually 1/2x1" and place them several inches from the edge, which makes it easier to pry them apart.

[Larry Gipson]

In line with this, what is the best way to get the sticky part of the leftover tape off?

Lacquer thinner works & drys quickly and doesn't leave behind a residue that will effect a future finish. I use this on both the work and the template.